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Problem testing for boost leak!~

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PieEyedPiper

DSM Wiseman
5,580
65
Nov 13, 2004
North Bay Area, California
ok so I made my own tester today for 9 bucks. I plugged both sides and my puny 12v compressor pumped it up to 30psi before it popped. Great it holds more than enough pressure to do a leak test.

So I unhook my intake, hook up the tester and tunr on the compressor...duh no pressure is being built cause i didnt block off the tube coming off my bov.

easily fixed I say, as I jam a D size battery into the tube.

The compressor still wont build any pressure though. My guess is that it holds 1-2psi in my intake tract cause the guage barely budged on my compressor, but when I took out the battery from the bov tube i felt and heard a pssshhht of air come out.
I could not detect any leaks during my efforts. I checked everything and tightened all my clamps. But regardless I could build no pressure.

I did see one leak however, oil bubbling ever so slightly from the bottom left corner of my valve cover. It looked minor.

Maybe I did it wrong...maybe I missed something entirely.

Suggestions!! :dsm:
 
seriously?! like i could feel the pulses of air coming directly out of the bov tub that attaches to the intake pipe. I raised an eyebrow that the vfaq did not mention i had to plug it...but i just carried on for like 2 hours playing with this and that trying to get it to hold pressure.

soo wait....what does that mean if my bov is leaking right through?
The car appears to build boost fine in most senarios, but I just want to rule out a boost leak cause the cars been acting funny lately.

Obvilously I should upgrade my bov and probably uicp..but what would make my stock bov not let me pressurize my intake tract but still "blow off" when i let off the gas at 5k rpm?
 
PieEyedPiper said:
seriously?! like i could feel the pulses of air coming directly out of the bov tub that attaches to the intake pipe. I raised an eyebrow that the vfaq did not mention i had to plug it...but i just carried on for like 2 hours playing with this and that trying to get it to hold pressure.

soo wait....what does that mean if my bov is leaking right through?
The car appears to build boost fine in most senarios, but I just want to rule out a boost leak cause the cars been acting funny lately.

Obvilously I should upgrade my bov and probably uicp..but what would make my stock bov not let me pressurize my intake tract but still "blow off" when i let off the gas at 5k rpm?
Coincidentally, I made an intake pressure tester today and checked for leaks. I found a big one at a coupler and fixed that. I have a 1G BOV and did not have to plug the recirc tube. It doesn't leak. (The 2G BOV is a piece of crap, replace it with something better. I couldn't adjust boost at all until I upgraded) I had to screw in the boost controller adjustment because it started to leak at the normal boost setting. After that I could pressurize the system.

It takes more air than I expected to get it up to 20 psi. The remaining leak I heard was from inside the crankcase, probably blow-by the rings because the engine was cold. I had to wait until my compressor stopped running because I couldn't hear the hiss over the chugging.

I can feel the difference now that I fixed the boost leak.
 
Turn you're driver side wheel all the way to the left, then get in there with a 1/2 inch extension and turn the motor over to top dead center. Then pressurize it again, you should be able to build prssure then, that was my problem when I couldn't build any pressure.
 
oldman said:
If you can only build 1-2psi and you see oil bubbling, your problem is bigger than a leaking stock 2g BOV. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174682&page=1&pp=25


I hope you're telling me to do the things listed as 1,2 and 3. And NOT that I have bad rings.. :thumb:

I'll start tomorrow with the list. I would appreciate some more feedback if you could provide some, as you seemed very helful in that thread you posted.
heres some more info for ya:
ZERO shaft play on my t25. I pulled and prodded and pushed, that thing is like a rock, it even looks brand shiny new in there.
I did blow some smoke today though, but I figured it was from trying to presuurize the intake tract for 2+ hours and the fact that i sprayed my engine with a hose this morning (definitely filled up the top of the valve cover with water :barf: )

Thanks for you help though!
and im still pretty curious about my bov..my car functions far better than I would imagine iit would if my bov didnt hold any pressure at all.
But I do want to stress that when I used a bike pump to try and pressurize my intake tract, I could feel every pulse of air I put in exit the bov tube that connects to my intake pipe.
 
CyberEye said:
Turn you're driver side wheel all the way to the left, then get in there with a 1/2 inch extension and turn the motor over to top dead center. Then pressurize it again, you should be able to build prssure then, that was my problem when I couldn't build any pressure.


AWESOME suggestion!!
I have no clue on what I'm turning with that extension or how I'll know when the motor is top dead center.. but I'll poke at it and scratch my head until I do!
Thanks! :thumb:
 
PieEyedPiper said:
I hope you're telling me to do the things listed as 1,2 and 3. And NOT that I have bad rings.. :thumb:
Let's hope you have better luck than Mike in the other thread. :)

I'll start tomorrow with the list. I would appreciate some more feedback if you could provide some, as you seemed very helful in that thread you posted.
Just post back any questions you have as you go and I will do my best to help.

I see that you still have the stock bcs, disconnect it and plug up whatever you need to plug up. BCS is a bleeder valve, you're probably loosing some air there. You need to fix what ever you can catch for now especially if you're using a 30psi compressor, though better than a bike pump. :) Expect this to be a long process, just be patient with it.

I have no clue on what I'm turning with that extension or how I'll know when the motor is top dead center.. but I'll poke at it and scratch my head until I do!

TDC would help determine which when you get down to rings or intake valve seals. Some where in this article, it shows how to bring it to TDC. http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/leakdown.htm
Have fun. ;)
 
PieEyedPiper said:
AWESOME suggestion!!
I have no clue on what I'm turning with that extension or how I'll know when the motor is top dead center.. but I'll poke at it and scratch my head until I do!
Thanks! :thumb:


I'm so sorry your highness, I didn't realize I was going to have to take you by the hand and walk you through every bloody step. Would you like me to draw you some pictures? God forbid you do a search and find some answers on your own.

With that said, there is a hole in the splash gaurd on the inner fender, it lets you put a 1/2 inch extension in the end of the crank pulley, letting you turn the motor by hand. Take our your spark plugs (makes it easier to turn), put a long skinny extension or anything down into cylinder 1 (first cylinder on driver side) through the sparkplug hole, then start turning the crank with the extension/ratchet (CLOCKWISE ONLY) Keep turning untill whatever you put in cylinder 1 get's as high as it can go ( the top of the crank). It also helps if you take the timing belt cover off, when the timing marks line up, and the piece you put in cylinder 1 is as high as you can go, you're at top dead center.
 
I actually looked it up last night about 3min after posting. I didnt ask you to hold my hand, instead I thanked you for your suggestion and admitted to my own ignorance - which I quickly remedied moments later.

Thanks though, its always good to have a second reference.
 
PieEyedPiper said:
I actually looked it up last night about 3min after posting. I didnt ask you to hold my hand, instead I thanked you for your suggestion and admitted to my own ignorance - which I quickly remedied moments later.

Thanks though, its always good to have a second reference.


sorry, was tired and being an ass. Hope you figure it out.
 
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