2G Preferred bushing method

[pauleyman]

This will be a long read.

Car is back on the ground. I'll share my experience and keep in mind this is not my first bushing job. I've done like 4 on different cars. Here are some observations. This is for a 2g using Energy Suspension bushings. I've done a full front bushing on my other 2g using ES bushings and it was no big deal. I used the hole saw method above and I've previously used drilled holes, burning etc. Hole saw is THE way to go. To cut the shell do not use a hack saw. I had trouble because the blade bows up and you only end up cutting the outer edges of the shell. Sawzall fixed that. Be careful or you will cut into the control arm/knuckle very easily. On to the meat and potatoes.
The upper bushing on the knuckle was in and out. The farthest one out on the bottom was the same. The bushing closest the center of the wheel bearing was where problems started. I got the bushing and shell out no problem but the new one would just not press in. I'm aware the one side of the hole is beveled and the other isn't so I beveled the other side. No dice. It's too awkward to put on the hydraulic press so I used the bench vice like I did the other two and that didn't touch it. I resorted to a piece of all thread and some washers. It finally went in....so I thought. I got it through easily but the last little bit just would not go. I said screw it it's close enough and went to put the sleeve in and it wasn't going. The lip was still in the knuckle a little bit. Quite enough to keep the sleeve out. I damaged the sleeve with a hammer trying to get it in. I finally decided to remove it and try again. What a mistake. The only way to get it out was to destroy it so I did. This time I didn't even bother with a new one as is. I split the bushing like a prothane kit. The problems don't end here. I noticed why I think it didn't go. The knuckle sleeve isn't symmetrical. One side the tube was a little beveled and not perpendicular to the bushing. I don't think the bushing could go through no matter what. This proved to cause additional problem with a split bushing. I immediately noticed the sleeve didn't sit flush with the two halves. As I predicted it didn't want to go into the control arm. After 10 min or so I said screw it and tweaked the arm opening a little knowing the bolt would squeeze down on the sleeve on reassembly. The rest of the job went normally with the exception of some cussing at WHY did they have a separate parking brake. I haven't done shoes in a long long LOOOOONG time. Anyway it's time for a test drive.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Post up some pics if you took any to show us this sleeve and such. Be good to have it all here what you did so others can mimic or in reality stay away from Energy Suspension rear bushes.

 

[pauleyman]

Well I didn't take any but I will on the drivers side. Not sure if this was a knuckle defect or what. Doesn't really matter I suppose. Only problem is now I'm one bushing short. I may scrap my other set and install prothane on the AWD. Front already has ES but I guess that doesn't matter. I just know I won't go through this again.

 

[jed344]

We have sadly done this to many times too. We always torch the insert and let it burn outside then cut the bushing with sawzall and air hammer it out. The issue with your rear one is interesting. 2 years ago my buddy re did every single one in the rear of his car. I think some where ES and others where just labeled as prothane on ebay? They all went in like normal. I wonder if you got a defect one perhaps, or your knuckle had a issue.

 

[pauleyman]

I'll know when I do the drivers side. Coincidently somebody local has a passenger knuckle for sale and the pics do not look like mine. The tube is squared off like it should be. I'm wishing I would've taken an angle grinder to it.