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Potential Crankwalk?

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shotgun94

Probationary Member
24
0
Sep 24, 2009
Cochrane, AB, Canada
Hey i have browsed the forums for 2gs and everyone seems to point towards the throw-out bearing. My car started ticking extremely loudly when started, and the noise increases when i push in the clutch. I assumed it would be the throw out bearing so i conveniently had a ACT clutch,act tob, and a fidanza aluminum flywheel. I was going to do it anyways but at a more convenient time. When the noise started i ripped my car apart, installed the new flywheel, tob and new clutch and put everything back together. When i started the car after everything was back together it had made absolutely no change to the noise. I had grabbed the flywheel and there was a substantial amount of crank endplay(could measure with a tape measure substantial) But i figured I would see if it made a difference. It did not. I assume its crank walk and my motor is fried, but if anyone else has any ideas of what else it could be i would appreciate some input. Thanks.
 
If you could physically move the flywheel that much I wouldn't of put it back together. You should of check to see if the flywheel was still torqued down. If it was then I would of check endplay.
 
it was torqued to 104 ft pounds like instructed by the hanes manual, and was centered properly. It was definitely the crank moving back and forth
 
IF the end play on the crankshaft is as substantial as you describe then I have a hard time believing the motor would even start/idle. Since it does start, besides the loud noise, what happens to the engine RPM when you press the clutch in and have you drained your oil and checked for metal in it?

Measure the end play of the crank using this method here. ---> How Do You Check Crankshaft Pulley End Play?

:dsm:
 
the rpm drops a little when the clutch is depressed, but catches back up right away. It has a solid consistent idle and no starting problems

I'll drain my oil tonight and see what is in it
 
take a hard left turn. push the clutch in while doing so, if it does not come back up/sticks to the floor board. you have crankwalk. if not, you could always consider replacing the clutch fork, it may be bent.
 
If you can measure the endplay by tape measure or can see it move then its walking. My motor has the same problem. Started at 7k noticed ticking, ended up being trigger plate hitting cas. Replaced crank and bearings and not even 1k later its starting to walk again. WWHHHYYYYYYYY IT is time for a 6 bolt.
 
If you can measure the endplay by tape measure or can see it move then its walking. My motor has the same problem. Started at 7k noticed ticking, ended up being trigger plate hitting cas. Replaced crank and bearings and not even 1k later its starting to walk again. WWHHHYYYYYYYY IT is time for a 6 bolt.

It's not the 7 bolts fault, it's the fact that you ignored all conventional knowledge of the issue and re-used a walked block. Everyone and their mother could have predicted that.
 
Its a good bet if the pedal drops to the floor when you depress it and you have to help it back up your answer is yes its one of the signs of CW. :cry:

Yes of course, it's obviously safe to assume it's catastrophic failure rather than an empty clutch reservoir. :rolleyes:
 
i assure you the clutch reservoir is full, and has fluid that is 2 months old. The clutch has always stuck to the floor sometimes, ever since i bought it. Suppose i should have done my research before hand. Good thing i have a 6bolt block and crank,eagle hbeams and a beauty set of magnus pistons sitting on my floor. Was going to wait for a convenient time to throw it in but i suppose ill have to do it now.
 
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