Potential?

[ihaterice]

OK i know these engine have great potential, and now i want it all out of mine. I had planned to buy a 600cc bike in about 10 months to a year, but i am to imature and would probaly die on a bike. So i want to spend it all on the car. I want to spend like 4-5 grand including labor. I want to make around 375 hp and run low 12's or high 11's.

Heres the part list.

Scat rods.
Wiseco Pistons.
Clevite bearings.
suggestions on turbo? I want a direct bolt on Not a 16g
Could i get by on a rewired 190 pump?
750cc injectors. Big enough?
DSMlink
Dejon intake mani.
FFWD cams.
Metal HG
Kevlar timing belt.
New bov.
Radiator.
ARP hardware.
Some type of clutch i am not sure. ACT 2600 maybe?
Nitrous kit-zex-nos-nx- i dont care what brand i just want a big wet shot.
Port the head.
So what am i forgetting?
Can the side mount handle 20 psi?
Will these parts get me 375 hp and low 12's?
Will the tranny and head be ok?
Do i need springs and retainers?
AND can a care be reliable with 375 hp? I want a good solid car that will take a beating but wont break evrytime i go out.
Can the engine(with the parts i have listed) handle 20 psi and a 100 shot all day?( nitrous will be for track use less then twice a month)

 

[Birt96gst]

don't use clevite they have become the worst bearings to buy ( aluminum ) Buy OEM or ACL

 

[ihaterice]

Is 375 unrealistic with 20 psi and a 100 shot? I know it will make more with the nitrous but i want 11's mid to high do i need 375 hp to get there?

 

[Liquidus]

375 to the wheels or the crank ?

What rpm do you launch your car at ? It must be pretty hard on the transmission.

 

[dr1ftx3]

Stock sidemount is usually MAXED at 19 psi, 20 is really pushing it, I highly suggest some sort of front mount.

 

[Slippi84]

OK i know these engine have great potential, and now i want it all out of mine. I had planned to buy a 600cc bike in about 10 months to a year, but i am to imature and would probaly die on a bike. So i want to spend it all on the car. I want to spend like 4-5 grand including labor. I want to make around 375 hp and run low 12's or high 11's.

Heres the part list.

Scat rods.
Wiseco Pistons.
Clevite bearings.
suggestions on turbo? I want a direct bolt on Not a 16g
Could i get by on a rewired 190 pump?
750cc injectors. Big enough?
DSMlink
Dejon intake mani.
FFWD cams.
Metal HG
Kevlar timing belt.
New bov.
Radiator.
ARP hardware.
Some type of clutch i am not sure. ACT 2600 maybe?
Nitrous kit-zex-nos-nx- i dont care what brand i just want a big wet shot.
Port the head.
So what am i forgetting?
Can the side mount handle 20 psi?
Will these parts get me 375 hp and low 12's?
Will the tranny and head be ok?
Do i need springs and retainers?
AND can a care be reliable with 375 hp? I want a good solid car that will take a beating but wont break evrytime i go out.
Can the engine(with the parts i have listed) handle 20 psi and a 100 shot all day?( nitrous will be for track use less then twice a month)

There is no way to tell you how you will run as there are infinate variables and tuning of course is always the key. But as I'm not a dick and won't just be like search i'll try and give you some facts.

If you think that 375WHP is where you will be satisfied with then I know you said no but to be honest a 16g is your best bet. If your real set against the 16g for some reason or you think you might want more after that def look into some sort of 50 trim. I don't know if your a 1g or a 2g but i would spend the money on a built engine else where for only 375 hp. The 7 bolt can take the 375 and the 6 bolt will more than take that 375 and still be as reliable as a dsm gets which i hate to be the one to tell you this isn't all that reliable compared to most cars. I have the dejon smim and while fittment was good honestly I would have went with a diffrent smim if I did it again. When I bought the Dejon I got it off a friend for only 300 and i jumped on it cause hell 300 for a known brand smim sure great. Only problem is I became more knowledgable about smim's and realised that cams are DEF more important. The turbo you have will detemrine the cams you get along with how high you want to rev. A 16g car would not want to run much more than a 272 or similar cam because you won't be reving the car much past the stock rev limiter. In that case you might not even want a smim(which by the way is Sheet Metal Intake Manifold) because the stock manifold outperforms smims up untill about 6500rpms. Anyways crap the radiator and the nitrous as they won't be needed. Like they said add a fmic make sure you research dsmlink and how to use it to tune and you will be well within reach of your goals.


Edit: I saw that your a 2g so you have a 7 bolt. I can't speak on the strength of a 7 bolt as I have never owned one but if you were bent on doing some internal engine work do a 6 bolt swap with 2g pistons on 1g big rdos awith arp rod bolts and you will have a strong engine with the arp head studs and Metal HG you listed before

 

[BeatupVR4]

I have seen a couple 2G 7 bolts take 375 hp. Stock they are good to about 450 horse, just not 700 like a 6 bolt.

 

[Slippi84]

I have seen a couple 2G 7 bolts take 375 hp. Stock they are good to about 450 horse, just not 700 like a 6 bolt.

You tellm me where I can find a 6 bolt that takes 700hp stock and i will drive there right now and buy one.

7 bolt - good till about 450whp or so(Andre proved that when he put his rod threw his block)

6 bolt- good to around 500whp or so

 

[ihaterice]

I'm not skimping on internals. Period. Front mouts are alot of money. With my budget i couldent really find a place to git it in. I was thinking a 50 trim turbo as well. So why no nitrous? I figure it will be fine on a built bottom end. Well i WILL NOT be taking it past 7500 rpms i dont want to chance anything. This is some serious money to me. I understand these engines can take 400+hp but i would rather have it built and not have to wory about it. As far as tranny i will not launch hard as long as i have the power to make up for a slower launch. I want to keep a side mount...maybe a better sidemount to handle 20 psi. Since i dont need a Intake mani. Why wont i need a new radiator I figuered it wouldent hurt. The cams i want to go with are ffwd 264/272.

 

[GSntncT]

There is a detailed upgrade path in the 'Tech Guide' section located at the top of this page. That's your best bet to see what you will, and won't need for the hp #s and times you want.

As always, throwing all this stuff in the car won't mean jack unless you spend just as much time tuning the car. Tuning was, is, and always will be the most important aspect of getting these parts operating at maximum efficiency.

Furthermore, when you post, try to spell your words correctly. It's one of the rules here. Good luck with your project.

 

[Slippi84]

375whp on any 4g63t 6 or 7 bolt is not skimping, stock radiators work fine it's like buying underdrive pulleys unless your makin some crazy amount of heat which is usualy due to something else anyway, fmic kits are not expensive if you hurry you can get in on that group buy for the xs power kits which is piping couplers and clamps with the fmic for 295 shipped. Like it was previously stated check the upgrade path and then we cna help you a little more but the big things you have to understand are parts w/o tuning equal bad times and that thing about having enough power to baby it out the whole equals bad times. a 2.0 60ft as a oposed to a 1.7 50 ft can be the diffrence between a dud or a stud car.

 

[ihaterice]

I have to buy a motorcycle first(250 cc) I work spilt shifts 10 miles away from my house my car sucks at mpg. I cant afford gas at 3 bux a gallon much less 4. So buying the front mount is out for now. If i buy an ebay core will an exhuast shop be able to do the piping cheaper?

 

[dr1665]

I cant afford gas at 3 bux a gallon much less 4.

Just a head's up, a 375hp DSM is going to be needing the good stuff. You'll be paying better than $40 a tank for gas like the rest of us with even a stock motor.

400hp on a DSM is only hard because so many people easily afford the parts, but don't have a handle on the tuning side of things. Personally, I think your best bet would be to pick up the DSM, yank the motor, and do the semi-stock rebuild with the 2G/1G pistons/rods, respectively. Get all new seals, belts, hoses, pumps and etc. that goes in a first class rebuild. Then you will have that reliable, tough-nails-4G63 that the industry respects so much. Step up a turbo to something like a 16G or even the understated 18G. Bolt up a front mount, proper DP and exhaust, install your SAFC, wideband and injectors, and then tune that bi*** properly.

I know you're concerned with reliability and downtime with your DSM, and I can totally understand you, but to give you an idea of just how stout these things can be and how much faith some of us have in them, I'm getting ready to drop a 4G63 into my GVR4 that had 200k on it before the engine bay caugh fire! I don't care what the compression looks like. I don't care if it's got a boost leak I can feel inside the cabin. I just know that it's going to run and make a damn fine daily while I finish up the Talon for the Shootout.

Keep the faith, brother. You ain't seen nothin' yet!

 

[ihaterice]

OK thanks. I know i need premium thtas all i use. I have a 100% rebuilt engine. This if for the future. Next summer i will be putting all the parts in. But i am ordering some parts this summer. So why no nitrous?

 

[keymaster]

Because it's not necessary, and just throws another quite unpredictable variable into the mix. You can fairly easily make 375 on an evo3, xspower FMIC, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, and dsmlink. Obviously, that's not EVERY single part, but that's the expensive stuff.