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On the stock intake between the turbo and the maf theres two hoses, the small one goes to the valve cover, but where the heck does the other one go? I pulled it out by accident and now cant find where it came from.
 
I think your talking about the hose that goes to the vapor canister release valve under your battery tray.
 
Yea I am going to do a boost leak test tonight, and see whats going on. I think it could be the recirculation hose on the BOV
 
my car has the 6 bolt swap and allways had a sputter over 75 mph the engine light p1400 code would come on then I would turn it off and back on and it would be fine. but now its on all the time I read it was the valve cover gasket and mine was leaking oil so I replaced it and found out one of the bolts was stripped where it leaked from so i taped it to a bigger bolt. the new gasket is so think only a few threads go into the head so I bought m6 x 1.0 30mm screws I am torquing it down tommorow will this fix my problem??? it sputters all the time when I accelerate for over 3 to 4 seconds. PLease help!!!!
 
this is mine can anyone tell me why its got a boost leak but dont know if thats what causing it


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my car has the 6 bolt swap and allways had a sputter over 75 mph the engine light p1400 code would come on then I would turn it off and back on and it would be fine. but now its on all the time I read it was the valve cover gasket and mine was leaking oil so I replaced it and found out one of the bolts was stripped where it leaked from so i taped it to a bigger bolt. the new gasket is so think only a few threads go into the head so I bought m6 x 1.0 30mm screws I am torquing it down tommorow will this fix my problem??? it sputters all the time when I accelerate for over 3 to 4 seconds. PLease help!!!!

Sounds like your headed in the right direction for bolting down the valve cover. First boost leak test. Check your ignition:spark plugs (gapped .028),spark plug wires, coils.
 
Ok I think I may have fixed my rough idle and the barly reving problem. I was checking the cam timeing and realized the intake cam was off 2 teeth and exhaust off only 1. I redid the timeing and am about to fire it up so I'll let yall know how it turns out.
 
Ok guys heres another update on my 2g gst. The timeing didnt fix anything so I just did a comp test and I've got 150lbs give or take few psi across all four cylinders. Still has a steady mis from idle up to like 3800, wont rev any higher than that. Any ideas?
 
Ok guys heres another update on my 2g gst. The timeing didnt fix anything so I just did a comp test and I've got 150lbs give or take few psi across all four cylinders. Still has a steady mis from idle up to like 3800, wont rev any higher than that. Any ideas?

What was your result from adjusting the cam teeth? Your compression is good. Did you check the TPS? Also when you rev, does it only happen in park or while driving?
 
What was your result from adjusting the cam teeth? Your compression is good. Did you check the TPS? Also when you rev, does it only happen in park or while driving?
Not much off a result it will idle now, like crap but it does idle. Only in park, cant drive runs that bad. How do I check tps? Also no cel.
 
When you figure this out let me know. As I've been searching the forums since I joined and still haven't fixed my car.

I just fixed it, I think. Even though my coilpack tested perfectly, I replaced it anyway. Car runs like a dream now: no more twitchy tach, no more constant fuel cut above 2000 RPM, no more 18:1 on the logger after 10PSI.

I can't believe it never threw a CEL amid all these problems.
 
ok heres my problem i cant figure out..

i will go into WOT the car will boost and pull somewat then around 3800-4900 it will feel like it struggles to get up top throughout the rpm's and then around 5000rpm it just feels normal and pulls hard to redline....

fuel filter was replaced
I just put in a new set of NGK 7es plugs
Magncore wires
boost leak test and took care of everything, only leak now is from two injectors seals..
((can this really effect anything?))

This is my setup:
small 16g- 14psi
external wastegate
SMIC
2.5 downpipe
3" exhaust no cat
 
ok heres my problem i cant figure out..

i will go into WOT the car will boost and pull somewat then around 3800-4900 it will feel like it struggles to get up top throughout the rpm's and then around 5000rpm it just feels normal and pulls hard to redline....

fuel filter was replaced
I just put in a new set of NGK 7es plugs
Magncore wires
boost leak test and took care of everything, only leak now is from two injectors seals..
((can this really effect anything?))

This is my setup:
small 16g- 14psi
external wastegate
SMIC
2.5 downpipe
3" exhaust no cat

Search for "5k cutout"
 
i need sum help to figure out what is wrong with my car. the first problem is that it would buck real hard once it hit about 4200 RPM. i changed the spark plugs and now it runs like crap. im gonna change it back to the way it was at first but does anyone know what the original problem is. i checked everything i can think of but nothing fixed it. if sum1 could help then that would be great. thanks
 
hi.. I have looked (not to hard) for low idle problem didn't find much my car runs great through the range but at idle its up and down and dies 200-1k rpm. I checked continuity on the idle switch @idle with plug unplugged and it was good. i took the plug and ground it on the block and within a few seconds she pops up to 750rpm and holds it steady. i know its something stupid please help. ig tsi.
 
Once I hit about 3k rpm's in 3rd gear or higher when im at about 60% throttle or higher, it starts to jerk and it struggles to rev higher. I just got the car about 2 weeks ago and am just trying to figure out what is wrong with the car. The only mod it has is a K&N FIPK. Im thinking getting the NGK plugs first to see if that would help at all. If anybody else has suggestions of what to check, please post what it could possibly be. Thanks.
 
I know that people could mistake fuel cut as a misfire if at high enough rpm's and enough boost. your car's fuel pump will shut off and kinda make it feel like a huge miss out.
 
Yeah, i've been thinking that could be the problem, but from what other people seem to do such as plugs, wires, and coils, it seems like that could also be my problem. It just happens under load at a decent amount of throttle.
 
okay after a WOT, or a nice pull my rpms like to jump. after the pull, i will slow down to around 2000 rpm's. i will keep the pedal steady. but my RPM's will dip several hundred, and rise several hundred. but if i then step on it to around 3000 its fine. and if i shut the car off and start it back up its also fine. it sounds like the car is sputtering. and the car bucks.... boost leak, timing off? thanks ahead of time guys

i have new bpr6es ngkr's and MSD wires with less than 1000 miles on them.
 
I have a 1993 TSI with a recently dropped in cyclone motor. The car never started but cranks. Im using the stock harness and had to swap the connectors. Im using the JDM ECU and no the valves are not bent. I cant figure out what the problem is for the life of me.
 
This misfire has me stumped! I can't take it anymore! I have a constant misfire at lower RPMs and it continues into the upper RPMs, but not as bad (strange). This is also at idle too whether it be a cold start or operating temperature. I also have to keep the idle up at a light to keep the car from stalling, but this doesn't happen all the time. However, the misfire continues. I have checked and/or replaced the following:


Keep in mind: running DS-Map and everything was fine until my mechanic replaced the front main seal because I didn't have time to do it.

wires (new)
plugs (new) gap .028
ignition module/transistor (new)
MAP sensor
IAT sensor
coils (new)
Injectors (new) 1150s
Mechanical Timing (TDC OK)
ISC motor (plugged/unplugged) doesn't make a difference with misfire
ECU (new) tried 2 new ones - no change

I have reason to believe that it may be my cam angle sensor or TPS which I still have to check. Anyone have any other ideas? Thinking of switching over to the black top CAS (93-94) if it is the cause of the problem. Seems like everytime I get close to being able to tune, something else comes up to screw the little bit of time I have to dedicate to this car.
 
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