Possible Fuel System Problem

[RallyTalon93]

I have searched but came up with nothing. My car is a 92 Laser RS AWD, all it has is a Turboxs Boost Controller(boost is turned down do to not having a aftermarket boost gauge). My problem is that when i try to start it it just turns for a while before it actually turns over. Theres also a fuel leak on the firewall on the timingbelt side of the car( cant remember what the part is called). I also have an idle surge but it surges all the time. I really need help i've been on here and looking in my Chilton Manuel but i just cant figure it out. All help is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Auto RS T]

Fix the fuel problem first, can you describe what the part looks like, or what it is next to? Is it bolted to the firewall or the motor?

Here is a link to fix idle surge. Look under "INTAKE" and "Idle Surge", use Terry's guide.

http://vfaq.com/index-main.html

You really need to get a boost gauge. I know you have it turned down but this should have been your first mod.

 

[RallyTalon93]

Yes i understand about the boost gauge but the car came with the controller. The part is bolted too the firewall, its black, and i think it has a vacum wire going in and coming out and Its right above the big black thing . my fuel milage has also gone done terribly if that helps.

 

[Auto RS T]

Sounds like the Fuel Pressure Solenoid above the brake booster.

No fuel should be in these lines, they are vacuum lines. They should only see vacuum or pressure, not liquid.

One connects to the Fuel Pressure regulator on the fuel rail and the other to the intake manifold correct?

Since the Fuel Pressure Regulator is the only part that is actually touching something that has fuel in it I would say it is bad. I don't see any other way for fuel to get into the FP Solenoid.

Possible diaphram breakage?

 

[Auto RS T]

I now understand you about the boost controller, just trying to save a

I wonder how high that boost controller was previously set?

Could I ask you to describe how the boost controller is routed? Does the hose on the bottom of the blue Turbo XS MBC cylinder go to the Wastegate Actuator on the turbo?

Here is a link to a search that I did using the keywords "Idle" and "Surge" in titles only on this forum. It has a lot of different symtoms of idle surge. Terry's list will tell you how to fix the throttle body related problems.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2073742

 

[donmagicjuan]

FYI, you can delete a double post by clicking on the Edit --> Delete buttons.

Auto RS T is right, you should not be getting any fuel in your fuel pressure solenoid, whether it's leaking out or not. I can't imagine what's going on with your fuel pressure right now. I would definitely make fixing that my utmost priority, for reasons far more important than a surging idle (i.e. fire hazard). I would also look at the fuel pressure regulator as the most likely fault.

 

[Auto RS T]

I was thinking the MBC could have been hooked up incorrectly and overboosting. Or that it was turned way up by the previous owner.

My theory is that the fuel pressure, while running high boost burst the diaphram on the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the intake was inhaling the gas via the FP Solenoid. Is this possible?

 

[donmagicjuan]

I'm not sure overboosting would place any added pressure across the diaphragm. The purpose of the 1:1 ratio is to maintain a constant D/P across the injectors, which would imply a constant D/P across the diaphragm as well (I think). I do, however, agree that if fuel was making it into the solenoid, then this extra fuel would be sucked back into the intake during manifold vacuum conditions, and would make for some seriously erratic AFRs.

 

[Auto RS T]

In theory, I was thinking the stock 14 year old FPR couldn't handle the higher pressures all together. Wouldn't 37psi fuel pressure plus 21psi boost pressure=58psi fuel pressure? When the FPR usually only sees 47psi max (stock boost)? Possibly overrunning the unit all together and creating a failure.

Am I way off here on how the FPR works?

I say 21psi based on the 14b on really high boost (just an example).

 

[RallyTalon93]

Auto RS T: I also forgot to add that this is a different motor than was in it, i just took the intake off the other and put in on this one. Do you think i should get a Fuel Pressure Regulator and Solenoid or just the regulator. I just checked and the boost controller is hooked up correctly.

donmagicjuan: Post deleted. Thanks for the help also.

 

[Auto RS T]

If you still have access to the motor you got the intake off I would swap fprs with that one for now to see if that is the problem. Which I strongly believe it is. Once the test works out you should get an aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator for your future mods and not waste money on a stock unit. Set pressure to 37 psi with the vacuum line off and plugged.

The FPR solenoid is for keeping the Fuel Pressure up on start up. If removed the car may require more cranking time to start. I have mine removed, but after my car was fairly modified. Just run the hose from the regulator to the intake to delete it. Later tap your boost gauge on this line.

You could try some searches on the Fpr Solenoid and Emissions Deletion for other basically free mods.

 

[RallyTalon93]

One problem i dont have access to the other motor. What type of aftermarket fpr would you recomend getting for someone on a budget. Links Please

 

[Auto RS T]

I can't really help you on current prices of AFPRs. But I can tell you that I run the Aeromtive Fpr with a 255lph pump with no complaints.

You could look through the vendors on this site. Or you could search for a fpr poll related question. You could look up the names of different types of regulators and search for those too.

Hers a link to a lot of fprs. Some are bolt on, some are not.

http://test.dsmtuners.com/parts/default.php?cPath=2_140_81&osCsid=874h4hvhli75p5mijc7u97ss94