plz help me decide if i should upgrade my rs or just buy a gsx or gst

[DSMNightmare]

Ok here is the answer to a few of your questions.

1. The Hacked dump tube mod is to help eliminate the restriction in the intake that goes to the turbo. The dump tube is where the BOV connects to the intake pipe. It actually goes down in the intake pipe like an intabation tube. When you take it off you'll see what I mean. This mod helps clear up air restrictions.

Here is the link on how to to it: http://www.tgilmore.com/talon/dumptube.html

2. The best thing to do hands down is take off the cat and use a test pipe. BUT KEEP THE CAT. You never know when you might have to put it back. You'll have to hunt around because a lot of garages wont take it off for you.

3. The upper IC pipe can be bought at www.dejontool.com and it can be powder coated and flanged for whatever blow off valve you want. Remember you want to keep in mind what blow off valve you plan to use before ordering the upper pipe. This way you can get it pre-flanged for whatever blow off valve you get. I have the HKS SSQV with a recirculated fitting, but if you want a valve that you can hear I have heard the Greddy Type S is the best sounding recirculated blow off valve. If you run it vented to the air then you run the risk of the car running like crap. Lots have done it with no problems but if you don't want to mess with it then recirculate.

4. Press bent is the type of exhaust you typically get at Midas and other muffler shops. What they do is take a straight pipe and put it on a "press" to bend it. Hence the name "press bent". The problem with this exhaust is that when you bend it on a press you reduce the diameter of the pipe and restrict exhaust flow. Madrell bent is exhaust that is true diameter all the way through. So when it says 3" mandrell bent then you will get 3" from front to back. Just about anyone will tell you that is the best way to go. Mandrell systems are not cheap but they are the best bet for your car. If you NEVER intend to up your turbo then you could get away with 3" press bent, but I don't recommend it.

I hope this helps.

 

[RSTwnnabe]

WOW thanks man thats awesome of you to dig up all that stuff. im guna cut that dump tube as soon as i get the car. . and i have like 200 bucks so im guna order the IC pipe too. as for th BOV's, i might get the greddy one, or i heard that the turbo XS is loud too? and thats another thing, how do i know the differnce between recircualted, or venter to the air??? whats the difference. and is the upper IC pipe somethign i could instlal myself? and waht if i only buy the IC pipe, and no blow off valve? can i use the stock BOV? thanks for your time.
DAve

 

[DSMNightmare]

Here you go:

1. Buy the blow off valve first. Since the stock 2G blow off valve is junk, most places don't flange the upper intercooler pipes to fit a 2G. If you really want the upper IC pipe go ahead and get it and have it flanged for a 1G blow off valve then get a 1G blow off valve( usually you can get those for mega cheap).

2. Vented referres to the way the blow off valve releases air. If it is recirculated it will release the air back into the intake pipe. If it is vented it will release the air into the atmosphere and the intake pipe is capped. Most people choose not to do this because venting is supposed to cause a "rich" condition and will sometimes make the car run crappy. I run my HKS SSQV vented and have in both my cars with no idle problems to speak of. I am going to do more research on the issue when I take the car to a dyno. The reason I tell you to get the pipe flanged for a 1G is because you can get a 1G blow off valve cheap and then later the Greddy should fit right on it with minor modifications.

3. The turboXS Blow Valves (mainly the Type RFL) are extremely loud when they are vented to atmosphere. Although they are rather tame from what I hear if they are recirculated. The Greddy maintains some of the unique sound that you like to hear while still performing to DSM spec. If that makes sense.

Performance Note: If your really worried about performance and only have 200 bucks to spend then this is the way I would go. Get the upper IC "L" pipe from www.dejontool.com and get it flanged for a 1G BOV. Then either buy the 1G BOV from dejontool or if you can find it cheaper elsewhere get it there. That should set you back somewhere around 150-200 bucks. Later on you can get the Greddy BOV and the Upper IC "S" pipe that replaces the throttle body elbow.

Non Performance Note: If you want loud and don't care about performance then go with either the TurboXS RFL or the HKS SSQV with a 2G install kit. Personally I would go with the HKS because you can always buy the recirculation fitting in case venting causes performance issues like rough idle. I don't think the RFL can be recirculated so if it makes your car run like crap then your S.O.L..

Personally If I only had 200 Bucks I would go with route the performance route. You can add the louder Greddy later. Right now both of my cars have the HKS SSQV and they are vented, but if it ever creates a performance issue I have a recirculation fitting so I can run them back into the intake.

 

[Initial DSM]

, I found a awd 95 talon for 2k and a 91 talon awd ownde by one guy. I think my friend might buy both at once. Or maybe I'll get the 2g and play around with it. anything.

 

[Kirby]

Damn, this thread went in a different direction than I expected....
Just to chime in here, yes forged internals are stronger and more reliable than stockers, otherwise it would not be an upgrade. The comparisson to race motors just doesn't hold water. When you look at a race motor pushing 25psi on a t-60 you have to realize, although that might break a forged piston or rod when they really start pounding on them, the stock rod would break at 10 psi. NOTE this is just an example not an acctual number quote. My point is a forged internal motor, and a stock motor, left at the same boost level and maintained equally with no outside influences, your forged internal motor will last MUCH longer. I am glad you finally realize my point about the blocks as well my newly GST buying friend. Congrats on your purchace BTW, I know you would have been happy either way, (even if you don't know...)
On a side note, my fuel system parts came in and I tuned the car for 15psi on saturday. This thing is fast as nuts.... I can't wait till I fix my oil leak and turn it to 18psi on pump gas, man it's going to be sweet. I'm not going to a track or a dyno till this oil leak is fixed. I still have some cooling system gremlins, so i have to replace the radiator to fix the cooling system, but that is not turbo related it's just old. I also have an issue with my stutter box, the car is running too damn rich to build boost on the line, so I have to lean out that portion of my fueling. I don't really have anything to say more about the car since I can't quote numbers, but this thing feels really really fast. I'm running 15psi on a t3/04e ball bearing turbo, with a 2,2L stroker motor, and a quaife diff and clutchmaasters stage 4 clutch putting the power to my stage 3 axles. (a little mod list for you)

 

[RSTwnnabe]

ok i was going to start a thread in the NT forum, but you guys seem to be more knowledgabe in here, . ok so i got my GST today, runs great, and fast of course, but, im hearing a sound coming i THINK from the engine when i drive. it soundskinda like my brake pads going out(you know that annoying screech?) well only it doesnt happen when i apply the brakes..is that thr turbo going out? or waht...i hope its not something major. ALSO, i was tryign tp put in my headunit. and i was hooking up all the jacks and so forth, and i put the last one in, and all the sudden my reading lights blew out.also, my antenna does not work. now i hooeked back u p the stock unti., and it works fine, ecpet thre is no reception due to the antenna not working. so all i need to know, is 1.if the head unit is blown, and if that is possible,2. what the fuses are labeld for the reading lights and antenna...one more thing...i dont know if this is a coinceidnce, but ever since it blew, the car idles REALY werid, like when i put it in nuetral, the RPMs drop to the point of almost a stall, like the car starts to shake liek its going to stall, then it doesnt.ANY advice would be AWESOME from you guys. i know you can help. thanks abunch
DAve

 

[Initial DSM]

Aw man now you did it! hello crankwalk! j/k

Did you check your alt / ps belts? sometimes if theyre loose, other electronic devices could rob the power from the alternator, and the tensioner could be sqeaking like that.

 

[RSTwnnabe]

well the thing is it only makes the sound when im driving, so i cant freaking hear wheres it s coming from when its parked, bc it doesnt mak the sound. and what do u mean by other electronic dvices rob it?
dave

 

[Initial DSM]

I dunno. Maybe Legaleagle or James could help you at the track.
Then when theyre both looking at your car, they could settle their differences and become friends and the DSM world will unite as one



...maybe not.

in the meantime , check this out:

2g

cheap 2g

 

[RSTsoon]

maybe its the turo spooling

 

[DSMNightmare]

Pull the intake pipe when the car is cold and feel the turbo for shaft play. If the turbine feels real wobbly then you might have a bad turbo. Don't sweat though T25s are dirt cheap and half the time you can find people giving them away.

Also another thing you need to careful about is the wheel bearing. Sometimes it can make similar sounds to brakes going out.

Now is the time to do tuneup stuff to the car.

 

[siueclipse]

so.. instead of just beefing up a good running car, now you have to spend money just fixing a car to run properly.. .. i think you made a bad choice. .hahah

 

[RSTsoon]

heh, dont rub it oin on him

 

[DSMNightmare]

Originally posted by siueclipse
so.. instead of just beefing up a good running car, now you have to spend money just fixing a car to run properly.. .. i think you made a bad choice. .hahah

Way to be a tool box about it. Why don't you offer some help instead of being a prick? You said yourself that your car is having TB trouble so I would say that if he made a "good" choice as you put it then he would be in the same boat.

It's sad when your car is so pathetic that you take pleasure in the misfortune of a 17 year old kid! If you don't have anything constructive to say..... Then why not shut yer pie hole!

 

[BakerGSX]

It's sad when your car is so pathetic that you take pleasure in the misfortune of a 17 year old kid! If you don't have anything constructive to say..... Then why not shut yer pie hole!

No kidding.


Question for RSTWannabe. Didn't you notice any of these problems when you test drove it?

 

[Kirby]

Wow James, that was pretty harsh bro. You can lead a horse to water, but they may want sprite. Every car has it's own problems, and I think in the long run he will be just as happy going this way as the other. Both paths lead to the same place you know. As for the issues with the new car: I think the squeak will prolly be your wheel bearing. A good way to check is to find a hill in a neighborhood and just shut the car down and roll down the hill. If you hear the squeak then you know it's not in the motor. My pulleys squeel a tiny bit, but you can hear that at idle. As for the rough idle, try giving the car a tune up, that may take care of it. There a lot of things that will cause that though. It could be a sensor. I doubt it has anything to do with the fuse that went out. Just look at the fuse box cover to find the correct fuse to replace, or pull them all till you find the blown one. You may have just caused a short during the install. Your head unit should be fine. As for the loose belts, you should check those because if it is loose then the car is not getting full juice from the ALT which can cause a rough idle, and almost stalling it out. All you have to do is check the tension on the belt. Did you get a warrenty with the new car?

 

[siueclipse]

hey.. you guys don't know us at all. he and i have talked on the phone a lot and im sure he didn't take what i said to heart and im sure he knows im kidding. before you guys get bent out of shape realize that you might not know everything.. sit back and think that people might know each other outside the board..

rst.. if you took offense, im sorry but i dont think you did.

 

[RSTwnnabe]

Well its not that i really took offense, because i know your alwyas sayign stuff in a joking manner on the boards. while your right, ill be putting money into this car to make it run better, i woud be putting money into the other car for tunups too, so i dont see it any difrent. i know your just giving me a hard time. its cool.as for RSTsoon, i can do without your coments, becasue if you look at everything yo say, you jsut agree with the REAL tuners on this board, and try to follow their lead. youve not once said something helpful to me, or anyone else, so if your not guna give advice, please DONT chime in, because up till now youve done nothign but agree with other tuners opinions, and try and make me feel bad.I think i know the differnce between the turbo spooling, and a sound thats not suppost to be there. but anyways, yeh Kirby, the sound does sound alot like brake pads going out, but i t only makes the sound when the turbo is not spooling. when it starts to spool, then it stops, and the turbo spools and blows off. so is this shaft play? Dsmnightmare, you said to jut pull off the intake(i am anywyas to cut out the dump tube) so i jut feel the insde of the turbo and if its uneven then thats the sound im hearing? thanks
Dave

 

[siueclipse]

yeah bub, im just jokin around and yeah.. givin you a hard time. hehe

 

[RSTsoon]

Originally posted by RSTwnnabe
Well its not that i really took offense, because i know your alwyas sayign stuff in a joking manner on the boards. while your right, ill be putting money into this car to make it run better, i woud be putting money into the other car for tunups too, so i dont see it any difrent. i know your just giving me a hard time. its cool.as for RSTsoon, i can do without your coments, becasue if you look at everything yo say, you jsut agree with the REAL tuners on this board, and try to follow their lead. youve not once said something helpful to me, or anyone else, so if your not guna give advice, please DONT chime in, because up till now youve done nothign but agree with other tuners opinions, and try and make me feel bad.I think i know the differnce between the turbo spooling, and a sound thats not suppost to be there. but anyways, yeh Kirby, the sound does sound alot like brake pads going out, but i t only makes the sound when the turbo is not spooling. when it starts to spool, then it stops, and the turbo spools and blows off. so is this shaft play? Dsmnightmare, you said to jut pull off the intake(i am anywyas to cut out the dump tube) so i jut feel the insde of the turbo and if its uneven then thats the sound im hearing? thanks
Dave

Easyt iger I was just playing around, dont cry.

 

[RSTwnnabe]

yet again another immature comment, last time i checked this was a website to help people tune their cars, not try and be funny. notice i said try.
Dave

 

[RSTwnnabe]

awesome, i did like you said Kirby, i put the car in nuetral while driving, and turned it off. then i coasted in and it made thos noise. so i guess its just my brakes
thanks man
Dave

 

[DSMNightmare]

It might be a wheel bearing too. They will make noise as well. There is a way to check and see if you have a wheel bearng bad but it does not always show up this way. Jack up each corner of the car one at a time and put your hands on the top and bottom of the wheel and see if it moves. If you have your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and you have any kind of "clunky" wiggle then you need to get your bearings checked.

Be Careful

 

[Kirby]

Originally posted by RSTwnnabe
awesome, i did like you said Kirby, i put the car in nuetral while driving, and turned it off. then i coasted in and it made thos noise. so i guess its just my brakes
thanks man
Dave

No No I said to do that to see if it was the wheel bearing. You said it does not do it when you use the brakes, only when driving. So in my opinion it would be the wheel bearing NOT the brakes. Try jacking up whatever side the squeak comes from and turning the wheel by hand. Then look at the brakes and all as your turning the wheel. That should tell you which one it is, however if it does not happen when your on the brakes, it's prolly the bearing.

 

[RSTwnnabe]

oh ok,...so i jack up the front of the car, one wheel at a time, then just move the tire and if it moves at all by hand my bearings are bad?...is that right? yeh bc when i coasted in and turned off the car, i didnt touch the brakes, the clutch, or anything, and the engine wasnt on, that makes sense. peace
dave