Dyesuperman
10+ Year Contributor
- 523
- 22
- Mar 10, 2009
-
Minot,
North Dakota
Ok, so here is the deal. I parked my car Wednesday to upgrade to a saturn alternator and swap to a 1g throttle body. Figured it would be easy and not have any problems. I was wrong.
Everything I did:
-Swapped alternator for self-exciting Saturn alternator (used stock power wire, 13.8-41.1 voltage at idle)
-Swapped intakes - bore out a 2g intake off of the car then installed it in place of mine
-Used phenolic gasket
-Egr was already blocked off, moved plate to new intake
-Took out injectors, soaked the tips in gas to remove the black goo from e85 - They may have fallen over a couple times but never for an extended period of time
-Blocked off FIAV according to the free FIAV blockoff how to
-Moved wires around to tuck a bit better, nothing major, literally just moved them around some
-Plug/connector harness for knock sensor broke, hardwired for now
-Took out cas and made sure the oring was good...yes it is oriented correctly and it is a 1g black top cas
-Resealed thermostat housing
Swapped tps sensor to 1g throttle body, used 1g ISC
I think that is about it. For the alternator I just left the harness hanging and used the stock power wire.
Here is the problem, I went to start when everything was back together and it barely ran. It kept dying as well. I let it set overnight then started working on it this morning. I swapped the 2g tb back on in case something was bad on it (hooked fiav back up on the 2g too. Nothing changed. So I put the 1g tb back on with the fiav blocked off. Made sure the cas was plugged into the right harness and it was.
While the car was running (terribly) I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time and when I unplugged 2&3 it didnt change, so something might be going on with cylinders 2&3
So I checked and made sure I was getting spark and all was good. Swapped out the coil pack and ptu with ones I had lying around just to be safe. I check for spark by having the car running and pulling the plug wires, then with the car off and turning the cas. Took the spark plug out one time too and used the plug in the wire out of the spark plug well to be absolutely sure spark was there.
The cas seemed to work fine as it sparked the plugs, clicked the injectors, and started the isc motor.
Which brings us to fuel. I took off the fuel rail and tested each injectors resistance and they were all within spec. Checked for power at the injector plug and had 11.95v without the car on. Then decided to check each plug and injector individually by turning the cas with the fuel pump disconnected to get power at the injector plugs. I found the injectors 1&4 clicked loudly (eventually, seemed like they needed to warm up or something?) while I could barely hear injectors 2&3 at all. So I put the quite injectors on a harness where I could hear them the best and put the car back together.
It seems to idle a bit better now (maybe 3 cylinders, not sure because I am tired of working on it and haven't pulled plugs or injectors yet).
Forgot to mention that the tach rpms fluctuate a lot for some reason, I will attach a couple videos to show it. Laptop connects fine to dsmlink, I can even make logs. Logs don't show much however, front o2 seems to stay constant and not fluctuate, wideband reads 20.0-21.9 the whole time unless I give it gas (e85 so its not as terrible but still bad for it). I did a compression test a week or two ago and every cylinder was around 165..haven't driven it that hard since then. ISC tested good as well. I am going to borrow a green top cas tomorrow and see if it changes anything.
I may have missed something but just ask me and I will let you know if I tried it or not. The log here is of before I tested injectors, it seems to run a little better now. Log video I would guess is 2 cylinders, now it is 3. I will also test the injector resistor box tomorrow.
So any ideas what I should do or what the heck is wrong with this car?
Before checking injectors (still the weird rpm however even after)
Log before testing injectors
And here is the car running after swapping around the injectors and such
I know bumping isn't allowed but I could really use some advice on this as I need the car running. I am trying to locate a cas locally to swap them out and see if that is the problem and I will check the resistance on the injector box today but anyone else have any ideas? Reason I am thinking cas is because of the tach freaking out, isn't the cas responsible for rpm signal?
Everything I did:
-Swapped alternator for self-exciting Saturn alternator (used stock power wire, 13.8-41.1 voltage at idle)
-Swapped intakes - bore out a 2g intake off of the car then installed it in place of mine
-Used phenolic gasket
-Egr was already blocked off, moved plate to new intake
-Took out injectors, soaked the tips in gas to remove the black goo from e85 - They may have fallen over a couple times but never for an extended period of time
-Blocked off FIAV according to the free FIAV blockoff how to
-Moved wires around to tuck a bit better, nothing major, literally just moved them around some
-Plug/connector harness for knock sensor broke, hardwired for now
-Took out cas and made sure the oring was good...yes it is oriented correctly and it is a 1g black top cas
-Resealed thermostat housing
Swapped tps sensor to 1g throttle body, used 1g ISC
I think that is about it. For the alternator I just left the harness hanging and used the stock power wire.
Here is the problem, I went to start when everything was back together and it barely ran. It kept dying as well. I let it set overnight then started working on it this morning. I swapped the 2g tb back on in case something was bad on it (hooked fiav back up on the 2g too. Nothing changed. So I put the 1g tb back on with the fiav blocked off. Made sure the cas was plugged into the right harness and it was.
While the car was running (terribly) I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time and when I unplugged 2&3 it didnt change, so something might be going on with cylinders 2&3
So I checked and made sure I was getting spark and all was good. Swapped out the coil pack and ptu with ones I had lying around just to be safe. I check for spark by having the car running and pulling the plug wires, then with the car off and turning the cas. Took the spark plug out one time too and used the plug in the wire out of the spark plug well to be absolutely sure spark was there.
The cas seemed to work fine as it sparked the plugs, clicked the injectors, and started the isc motor.
Which brings us to fuel. I took off the fuel rail and tested each injectors resistance and they were all within spec. Checked for power at the injector plug and had 11.95v without the car on. Then decided to check each plug and injector individually by turning the cas with the fuel pump disconnected to get power at the injector plugs. I found the injectors 1&4 clicked loudly (eventually, seemed like they needed to warm up or something?) while I could barely hear injectors 2&3 at all. So I put the quite injectors on a harness where I could hear them the best and put the car back together.
It seems to idle a bit better now (maybe 3 cylinders, not sure because I am tired of working on it and haven't pulled plugs or injectors yet).
Forgot to mention that the tach rpms fluctuate a lot for some reason, I will attach a couple videos to show it. Laptop connects fine to dsmlink, I can even make logs. Logs don't show much however, front o2 seems to stay constant and not fluctuate, wideband reads 20.0-21.9 the whole time unless I give it gas (e85 so its not as terrible but still bad for it). I did a compression test a week or two ago and every cylinder was around 165..haven't driven it that hard since then. ISC tested good as well. I am going to borrow a green top cas tomorrow and see if it changes anything.
I may have missed something but just ask me and I will let you know if I tried it or not. The log here is of before I tested injectors, it seems to run a little better now. Log video I would guess is 2 cylinders, now it is 3. I will also test the injector resistor box tomorrow.
So any ideas what I should do or what the heck is wrong with this car?
Before checking injectors (still the weird rpm however even after)
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Log before testing injectors
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And here is the car running after swapping around the injectors and such
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I know bumping isn't allowed but I could really use some advice on this as I need the car running. I am trying to locate a cas locally to swap them out and see if that is the problem and I will check the resistance on the injector box today but anyone else have any ideas? Reason I am thinking cas is because of the tach freaking out, isn't the cas responsible for rpm signal?
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