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please clear up confusion!! on amp power and wiring!

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turbo98eclipse

15+ Year Contributor
1,096
15
Jul 27, 2004
northern, New Jersey
ok i just got 2 kicker 12" l7's rated at 750 rms a piece so i got an amp good for 1500 watts 2 channel bridgeable to 4 ohms (good enough right?) then a 4 gauge amp wiring kit and was going to get a distrubition block to change the 4 gauge to 8 gauge...now..the confusion comes in on these 2 points..

1st) the order of wire is : from battery to fuse? to dist block then amp then subs? or am i like completely off? LOL

2nd) there are wires from the amp that go bac to the headunit correct? im pretty sure those come in the kit. are there any other wires im missing (besides ground i know) but as far as amp to speakers, im guessing that wire is included in the kit too and i can bridge the 2 subs together correct.

if my questions are confusing let me know and ill try to clarify them for you...thanx! :confused:
 
hey dude this is the way from battery to disturbtion block prefer that u have the fuse close the battery and then to the amp(s) the head unit should have a blue wire marked p.cont which means power control and u run that to the terminal marked p.cont on your amp(s) and then from there wire up your speakers and also don't forget about the ground wire it should be as short as possible and usually u can use the bolt that runs from your seat to the chasis of the car good luck dude and have fun :thumb: :dsm:
 
ok first off its fuse first preferably by the battery then to dist block if you need one..like you might have more then one amp running or for other things..other wise try to run the 4guage wire straight to the amp. if your gonna be maxing out your amp and subs id recommend you get thick wires .

now i dont know what kit you have but if you run the sound from a stock radio you more then likely will need a hi/lo converter so seperate the bass or your subs will sound like garbage and possibly pop due to too many highs passing through... also dont run the power wires next to the sound wires or youll get interference. if you run an aftermarket radio it should have preamp outputs then you just run rca cables to the amp plain and simple and the radio should have a built in eQ hope this helps..also make sure you get the OHMS right on your subs..you have to match up the OHMs to get the power right its something like if your amp is 1500 watts @2 ohms... i think you need to be able to bridge teh subs down to 2 ohms to get the power right.. so since L7s are dual voice coils.. i tink its supposed to be 8 ohms so when you bridge one sub it comes down to 4ohms and when you link up both subs its comes down to 2 ohms someone correct me if im wrong i havent worked on systems in ages so im a lil rusty on the OHms part
 
streetlegends said:
hey dude this is the way from battery to disturbtion block prefer that u have the fuse close the battery and then to the amp(s) the head unit should have a blue wire marked p.cont which means power control and u run that to the terminal marked p.cont on your amp(s) and then from there wire up your speakers and also don't forget about the ground wire it should be as short as possible and usually u can use the bolt that runs from your seat to the chasis of the car good luck dude and have fun :thumb: :dsm:
my bad forgot one thing u can bridge them only if they are brigable meaning that it will show that i the book for your subs and also u have two ways of that one series and parrell series is when u run postive to negative to postive to negative it should look like a straitght line u have to contact the speakers together leaving one postive end to the amp and negative end to the amp which gives u more power or parrell which u run postive to postive and negative to negative (subs to amp)
 
o alright i think im starting to understand... now to make sure:

1) i dont need a dist block if im only using one amp correct?

2) i go battery fuse amp then connect the subs with the amp...(and ground in there someplace)

3) is it better to run parallel or in a series?

4) is the amp im using ( 2 x 750 Watts MAX Output, Bridgeable Into 4 Ohms) enough to max out the subs (Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm, RMS Power Handling: 750 Watts,
Peak Power Handling: 1500 Watts)

:cool: thanx for the help guys
 
Series is the best way to go you get more out of to properly wire it up is take both the speakers and sit them side by side it's like making two subs one sub i hope you understand how to wire it correctly in other words your subs should to wire postive to negative one end should be postive when you get done and the other side should be negative when you get it done :dsm: :thumb:
 
Also with that much power, DO NOT run the signal cables near the power wires. Run the power on the passanger and the signal on the driver, or visa versa. If you get them near each other, your going to get alt noise like you wouldn't believe
 
so do you guys think the amp i gave the stats for will be enough for the 2 kickers which i gave the stats for also? thanx..that should be it after that's answered..ill try and post pics of the setup when im done!! :thumb:
 
i have 2 kicker solobaric s12l7's in my talon also.. i have a kicker 1200-1 powering them. In all honesty why waste your money on crap you dont need. I have the fuse that came with the amp.. and a 4 Gauge 2000 watt monster power cable going from my battery directly to my amp and i Have NO PROBLEMS with it whatsoever. If you turn it up the lights flicker but thats because of the crappy alternator that they put in these cars.. I think its like 90 when my malibu alternator use to be like 115 stock.
heres a link to my cardomain page for my malibu and talon which has pic's of my system in my old malibu but now its in the talons backseat.

http://www.cardomain.com/profile/95eagletalondsm
 
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