blcknspo0ln
DSM Wiseman
- 7,772
- 101
- Jul 31, 2003
-
Central,
New Jersey
I got a little done today, I had to order a new castle plug for the front case, so my engine build is pretty much at a stand still until I get it in.
Got the block on the stand today
I used 10x1.25x80mm bolts (most use tranny bolts)
I couldn't find any 3M window weld, so I just substituted a polyurethane sealant I found at Home Depot. I'm sure it's the same stuff anyway (It's getting a lot harder as it cures). One thing to note is if you're in a rush to do mounts, don't just dump the sealant in there all at one time, it's going to take days to cure. You can speed it up by letting it bake for an hour at 200*F in your oven (SMELLS)
***Update** ABout two weeks have gone by and the motor mounts are finally fully cured. They have been in the garage at sub 40's, so it's not a surprise it took forever to cure. They are now hard as a rock
Along with my new front case I got both new gears and reused the stubby shaft from the BSE kit. I used white lithium grease to lube the shafts and red loctite on the bolt (torqued to 20 ft/lb)
Note the lip in which the bolt sits. The other side of the gear is flat, so make sure you put the bolt INSIDE the recessed portion of the gear. I used red loctite here too.
Put the transmission dowel pins in, PLEASE don't neglect to put these back in if you're doing a rebuild/swap.
I was reading a bit and came across BUCK's old tech thread and was reminded about bolting the cams down prior to putting the head on. Although I've bolted complete heads on before, I decided to be thorough and loosen up the cam bolts / caps just to make sure the valves are closed before I put the head on. Obviously setting the block to BTDC is a given so that a piston head isn't all the way up.
Put my cam seals in, used white lithium grease:
Update time!! I got a lot accomplished in a measly 2 hours
Waterpump:
Pretty straight forward, it's 5 bolts and just copper spray (I always put a bit of black RTV on both sides anyway).
Got the block on the stand today
I used 10x1.25x80mm bolts (most use tranny bolts)I couldn't find any 3M window weld, so I just substituted a polyurethane sealant I found at Home Depot. I'm sure it's the same stuff anyway (It's getting a lot harder as it cures). One thing to note is if you're in a rush to do mounts, don't just dump the sealant in there all at one time, it's going to take days to cure. You can speed it up by letting it bake for an hour at 200*F in your oven (SMELLS)
***Update** ABout two weeks have gone by and the motor mounts are finally fully cured. They have been in the garage at sub 40's, so it's not a surprise it took forever to cure. They are now hard as a rock
Along with my new front case I got both new gears and reused the stubby shaft from the BSE kit. I used white lithium grease to lube the shafts and red loctite on the bolt (torqued to 20 ft/lb)
Note the lip in which the bolt sits. The other side of the gear is flat, so make sure you put the bolt INSIDE the recessed portion of the gear. I used red loctite here too.
Put the transmission dowel pins in, PLEASE don't neglect to put these back in if you're doing a rebuild/swap.
I was reading a bit and came across BUCK's old tech thread and was reminded about bolting the cams down prior to putting the head on. Although I've bolted complete heads on before, I decided to be thorough and loosen up the cam bolts / caps just to make sure the valves are closed before I put the head on. Obviously setting the block to BTDC is a given so that a piston head isn't all the way up.
Put my cam seals in, used white lithium grease:
Update time!! I got a lot accomplished in a measly 2 hours
Waterpump:
Pretty straight forward, it's 5 bolts and just copper spray (I always put a bit of black RTV on both sides anyway).
