2G Parasitic draw like everyone else...

[spyderdrifter]

I have a parasitic draw that I've narrowed down to the room light fuse circuit. Yes I've read through those threads and I've checked the fuses and a few relays under the dash on the driver side. I know I need to find out how much current is being drawn while my car is off, and I'm not too sure how to hook up my dvom for milliamps and YouTube so far hasn't been clear. How can I do this? Also, nothing I pulled from under the dash (driver side) turned off my test light. The light does go out when I pull the cradle that houses the room light and radio fuses, but only when the room light fuse specifically is removed. What else can I check? I know there's a lot under the dash to check, and haven't done it all.

 

[estoyaqui30]

The room light fuse should have a probe hole on each end. Push a piece of solid wire into each one and then put the dvom probe wires on each. Set the meter for milliamps and see what kind of readings you get

 

[spyderdrifter]

I tried that with the fuse and it didn't really give much info.

 

[luv2rallye]

How much draw are you talking? The "Room Lamp" fuse supplies backup power to the ECU and radio for their memories so a constant 30-50mA draw at all times is normal.

 

[fastfred]

Disconnect the negative battery terminal, set the meter to milliamps, one lead to the cable and the other to the terminal to complete the circuit, I use small vice grips for this. Make sure everything is turned off, doors and trunk are closed, and the keys are not in the ignition. This will give you the total draw of the car. It may take 15 minutes or so for everything to shut down. I've had new cars take up to an hour but a dsm shouldn't take long. Anything under 50milliamps is usually universally considered ok.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I understand 30-50mA is fine, but the issue has been trying to find out how much my car is pulling. I haven't had much experience with my dvom and reading mA. That was the reason for this thread, just to find out how to get the reading. It read 0.004 when I had it hooked up the way suggested here, in line connected to the negative cable and terminal.

 

[fastfred]

While you have it hooked up like that you can open doors or turn things on to see how much current each one pulls and to gauge how long it takes the car to go to "sleep". Also the current needs to flow through the meter (positive lead on the cable, negative lead to the terminal).

 

[spyderdrifter]

I'll give that a try, thanks.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Is the trunk lamp on that circuut to? And the map lights? Check them to make sure they're off.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Map lights are on that circuit, but not sure about the trunk light. I no longer have map lights anyway, and my trunk light hasn't worked since I bought the car, and I never cared enough to see why the trunk light didn't work.

 

[luv2rallye]

The 10 amp "Room Lamp" fuse on a 2g is the 2nd from left, bottom row, in the engine fusebox. It supplies power to auto-cruise ECU, dome light, door ajar light, automatic tranny control module (if have), ECU, ETACS-ECU, foot light, ign key hole light, trunk light, motor antenna, radio, theft alarm,vanity mirror light, garage door opener, door locks, glove box, ign key reminder buzzer, lighting monitor buzzer, power windows, seat belt warning buzzer.

 

[chrysler kid]

Let's start at the beginning, have you verified the battery is good by taking it to a local autoparts store to have it tested? I've had bad batteries simulate a draw just because they couldn't hold a charge, and one of them was only 10 months old