painting rear end

[Aproductions]

Not sure if this goes with the drivetrain threads or the paint/appearance threads.

Anyways, I have the rear end dropped out of the car and there is some rust on the parts.

I was planning on disassembling all the arms and stuff and sanding them down and repainting them before I put the new poly bushings in.

What type of paint (needs to be strong & rust resistant) do people use to paint the underside of the car and the control arms?

Should I also clear coat them or no?

 

[crimsondragon]

If I had to do that kind of work, grind down to bare metal, and use Metal-Ready to promote a protective coating, followed by a thick even coat of POR-15. And when I mean thick, I mean be generous. Dip that paintbrush in it and go Picasso on it.

I use this on my offroad bumpers on the Jeep. On my front bumper, I didn't use a topcoat and it lost it's gloss over time but I have welded gussets on the inside and it's burned the paint off on the outside but the coating still last where it isn't burned. No signs of peeling. This stuff will STICK and if you get it on your hands, forget it. The paint has survived over a year already and is on its second winter. I also destroyed the front end of a Dodge Charger and it didn't even scratch the coating. Ridiculous paint.

I plan on redoing it again after cleaning the rust off where it burned and reapplying everything followed by regular primer to protect it from UV and then black Rustoleum topcoat. That's the current setup I have on the rear tube bumper. Hasn't worn through the primer yet on some areas.

POR-15 isn't the only type of coating. I heard Eastwood Chassis coat is just as good if not better. Feel free to experiment. You definitely want some sort of chemical coating first though. Metal Ready is a liquid form of phosphoric acid which converts rust to ferric phosphate, a corrosion resistance coating. There's also a gel form called Naval Jelly that can be applied as well that can be found at big chain hardware stores like Lowes or HD.