2G P1105 and ticking noise from top

[jdmfairladyz]

Hey guys I have had a P1105 and I have replaced the FPR 2 times and the code will not go away. Any ideas as to what could be causing this?

Also there is a knocking noise coming from the top of the engine when you rev up the engine. Pls help
Thanks

 

[luv2rallye]

P1105 is FP solenoid - not FPR. Check it and it's connector and hoses. Small hose on top of FPR goes to it.

 

[jdmfairladyz]

Ok well I see that the hose on top of the FPR splits, one goes to the intake manifold, the next to a MAF, and the last has the hose and then what looks like a electrical wire coming out of it and it continues to some where near the back of the car, would that be it?

I have a boost leak. I just replaced all the vacuum hose to the MAF and the turbo the boost leak is still there. I was driving the car and I started to hear a ticking noise from the top of the motor. So I did and oil change and it stayed it increases with higher rpm.

Also when I press in the clutch the car will die so I have been driving it by giving it gas at the same time.

Please help me i am just about done with these DSMs.

 

[thejollyrancher]

It's a little black box mounted to the firewall. Has a vacuum line on the top and bottom of it

 

[phr0st]

The car is most likely dying because you have a boost/vacuum leak. You do have the BOV recirculated right? BLT the car again and fix all of the leaks, be sure to check around the injectors, throttle body, and intake manifold gasket. The ticking noise is most likely unrelated and probably caused by a collapsed/bad lifter.

 

[thejollyrancher]

Sounds like your having a rough time. The ticking sounds like lifter tick. If that's the issue, an oil change with thicker oil should fix it.
As for the leak, can you hear it? Is the car cutting out?

 

[jdmfairladyz]

I have an aftermarket cold air intake and a aftermarket BOV and I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 Should I just put some high milage 10W-30 would that fix it

 

[97gsxIA]

There should be no reason to run 5w-30 in these cars unless you're in the Arctic circle.
Its summer and you're in a suburb of Chicago switch to 10W40 or 20W50. 10W-30 will be fine, but like I said.. its WAY too warm for 5w-30.

 

[jdmfairladyz]

Ok thank you guys the boost leak is still a thorn in my side should I replace the hose to the bov

 

[luv2rallye]

Assuming you are stock here, one small hose goes from FPR to FPS and one from FPS to intake manifold. FPS is on firewall drivers side: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/#post-151528384. You can pinch off this small hose right at the FPR and if it now starts and idles ok, then you have a vacuum leak in the FPS or it's hoses.

 

[jdmfairladyz]

Is it on the driver or passenger side of the firewall? Also my evap system has been taken out.

Sorry I sent that before I saw you had sent me the last part.

Ok I found it, it was in the box of parts I got. If someone would show me where all the hoses go that would be great because I'm just a little lost.

 

[luv2rallye]

This may help (look bottom of post 2): http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-and-removal-for-1g-and-2g.198327/

 

[edged1g]

should I replace the hose to the bov

No. You need to do a test and replace whats leaking.

 

[thejollyrancher]

I run 10w-40 and it got rid of my tick. Like edged suggested you need to pressurize the system and listen for the leak. It sounds like a bigger leak so you should be able to hear it. If not, then start the car and start spraying carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses, if your hose is leaking it will suck in the cleaner and rev higher.

 

[Eckzavier]

There should be no reason to run 5w-30 in these cars unless you're in the Arctic circle.
Its summer and you're in a suburb of Chicago switch to 10W40 or 20W50. 10W-30 will be fine, but like I said.. its WAY too warm for 5w-30.

Oil preferences should be based on engine clearances when assembled. Not temperature of his location. If its an old motor and things are starting to wear down, thicker oil will be healthy.

No. You need to do a test and replace whats leaking.

This, google a boost leak test so you can make/buy a tester and found where your vacuum noise is coming from.

 

[97gsxIA]

Oil preferences should be based on engine clearances when assembled. Not temperature of his location. If its an old motor and things are starting to wear down, thicker oil will be healthy

That would be great, but one assumes he hasn't built his motor, so his bearing clearances and oil mods are not applicable because they are stock. IF ANYTHING they're old and the clearances are wider... meaning he shouldn't be running anything under 10W-30 anyway. Even on a fresh stock motor 5W-30 is too thin. PERIOD.

 

[Rs AWD]

freshly built motor i run rotella 15w40 even in the winter. these motors love the thicker oil, now that its summer im thinking some 20w50

edit: i would also think about checking the crank to be sure its in spec because usually a lifter tick goes away as the motor increases in rpm's

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I have an aftermarket cold air intake and a aftermarket BOV and I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 Should I just put some high milage 10W-30 would that fix it

Oh no... Please discontinue the use of Mobile 1 as it has been know to cause problems in our engines.

Take a look here and pay close attention to the top of page #3 http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf