P0100, P0110, P0105, wont idle Please HELP!

[KING4ADAY]

Engine is running rough (RICH RICH RICH) , im getting a maf error code i swapped to a good maf and still getting code. i checked connection and harness as far back as i could see it looked good no breaks or burns. what should i check next? also i have to apply throttle or it will die it will not idle. any input will be appreciated thanks in advance

 

[spyderturbo007]

Your profile says you have DSMLink. Can you take a look and make sure you are getting a MAS frequency reading at the ECU. It would also be helpful to post a log of the problem.

 

[KING4ADAY]

p0100 mass or volume air flow circuit code is what was pulled. even after swap of good maf same fault code. and no i dont have dsmlink

 

[Red97Eclipseboy]

After you swapped the MAS, how long did you wait? Codes don't clear out right away. It can take a day for the ECU to cycle and realize the issue is fixed. Or you can go get the code cleared and see if it comes back.

 

[KING4ADAY]

took mine out put his in cleared codes with scan tool started back up and was running the same and same code was pulled. is it because of my big 16g turbo and 560 injectors? also have evo 8 rods and pistons. i am running circulated. i have to have throttle applied or it will die. i need some troubleshooting tips thanks.

 

[KING4ADAY]

could i check for voltage at the maf plug? if so what type of voltage am i looking for and can i do it with the car not running? could it be a bad ecu? how do i troubleshoot this without having a replacement? thanks

 

[KING4ADAY]

i tested maf plug a few minutes ago with voltmeter and im getting between 2.5 and 3.5 volts on the pins so im getting the signal from my ecu. hmmm so im going to try cleaning it with sensor cleaner and see if that helps? any suggestion please chime in. I am in no way a proffesional just trying to use common sense and searching internet hasnt got me a resolution yet

 

[TALONTRAX]

I had this problem before . . . in MY case, it was just a matter of a poor connection in the weather-pack harness connector that plugs into the maf. I took all the pins out & cleaned/crimped them to fit snugly onto the terminals on the maf, & problem solved . . .

 

[KING4ADAY]

ok it is running pig rich, maf circuit fault code still displaying as well as P0110 intake air temp sensor 1 and P0105 manifol absolute pressure /baro circuit(map sensor) i checked the plug pins and this is what i got
pin 1 is a blank
pin 2 reading of 0
pin 3 4.6 volts
pin 4 4.9 v
pin 5 11.65 v
pin 6 4.95 v
pin 7 0 - .1
pin 8 4.95 v

also when my buddy was running codes while it was running it was displaying like he was full throttle but we were only around 1500 -2k rpms so its dumping fuel in. i also have a fault code for coolant temp sensor but it is because i broke the wire wear it connects to it. which i will repair this tomorrow.

i dont know how to test the maf sensor itself i was thinking it needed to be checked by ohms but i dont know how to test it. so hope this info helps you help me troubleshoot the issue. thanks

 

[blcknspo0ln]

It almost sounds like you have an ECU issue. Try disconnecting the 4 plugs without battery power and see what happens. Do you have a 2g friend that can help you?

 

[KING4ADAY]

so your saying to disco the wires going into the ecu with power off? then what? i did pull the ecu out and visually inspect the internals and pins and everything looks and smells normal. im thinking of putting stock injectors in was wondering if the new injectors are making the maf throw a code being that i have no maf translator nor a tuning unit yet. ??? i dont know but how do i test the pins on the MAF to see if its good or not?

 

[ToughTalon]

It almost sounds like you have an ECU issue. Try disconnecting the 4 plugs without battery power and see what happens. Do you have a 2g friend that can help you?

I am assuming what he is talking about is disconnecting the plugs at the ecu and the plug at the MAF, grab your wiring diagram and use a mulitmeter to measure the Ohms over each of the wires from the MAF connector to the PCM connector. This was a very common practice when i worked at a shop, its not uncommon to have a wire that gets nicked and turns into a 'mean green' pain in the but. If a wire gets a small nick in the insulation, water leaks in and corrods the copper wiring. On the same note wires can break internally.

So, when you Ohm out each wire you should only have 0-3 Ohms, no more. To be safe unhook the negative battery terminal so the Mulitmeter doesnt pick up stray voltage. And when you test for Ohms or power, NEVER force the probe of the multimeter into a connector, you will damage the connector pins and that will cause more issues. Before you check Ohms, set the meter to Ohms and touch the negative and positive meter leads together and make sure the meter reads 0 Ohms.

Testing wire continuity is always a good check with car sensors, after that get a Chilton of factory manual and read throught the Pinpoint test for each engine code and you can sometimes get a good idea what parts of the electrical system can be involved. Goodluck, I hope this helps.