Over heating every situation. Is different

[Vdubzr32]

This pass winter my oem radiator cracked on the plastic ends. I ended up buying an aluminum radiator changed the plastic end oem on. I drove the car fine through the winter with no issues. Now on our first nice day like 70 degree the began to climb in temp as I went up a slight hill. The temp dropped back down as I leveled out on the road and cooled fine. It still constantly does this. I changed the T-stat but still continues to climb in Temp.

It climbs just to the tip of the temperature logo on the gauge. Then drops back down. I drive with the heat on high and it kinda maintains the temp. stable.

Water pump a year old replaced when timing belt was done.
Same as head gasket. No fluid in oil.

Could it be air in my system when I swapped out my radiator in the winter?

 

[952g63t]

Air, or a loose-ish hose fitting is my vote. Burp it again, and check all your coolant lines.

 

[Vdubzr32]

Air, or a loose-ish hose fitting is my vote. Burp it again, and check all your coolant lines.

A loose line would leak coolant correct. I have no leaking or residue when I let it idle in garage.

 

[952g63t]

Yes, and no. Because it's getting warmer outside your engine is also getting hotter, you are building more pressure inside your coolant system than you were in the winter, which could be leaking only at certain loads/times. If you were driving you wouldn't really notice anything unless it was a large leak or something that is close to an exhaust manifold, showing visible steam etc.

The SAME exact thing was happening to me about a month ago. After I would climb a fairly large incline the temp would go up to about the top of the symbol. Then right when I reached the top of the "mountain" and started the decline it would cool off. Come to find out the lines to my oil cooler were not tight enough. No visible signs other than seeing the needle move. After I re-tightened all my small coolant lines, temp needle no longer moves.

Ideally, you would want to pressure test your coolant system or get it done somewhere.

 

[Vdubzr32]

Yes, and no. Because it's getting warmer outside your engine is also getting hotter, you are building more pressure inside your coolant system than you were in the winter, which could be leaking only at certain loads/times. If you were driving you wouldn't really notice anything unless it was a large leak or something that is close to an exhaust manifold, showing visible steam etc.

The SAME exact thing was happening to me about a month ago. After I would climb a fairly large incline the temp would go up to about the top of the symbol. Then right when I reached the top of the "mountain" and started the decline it would cool off. Come to find out the lines to my oil cooler were not tight enough. No visible signs other than seeing the needle move. After I re-tightened all my small coolant lines, temp needle no longer moves.

Ideally, you would want to pressure test your coolant system or get it done somewhere.

Yes, and no. Because it's getting warmer outside your engine is also getting hotter, you are building more pressure inside your coolant system than you were in the winter, which could be leaking only at certain loads/times. If you were driving you wouldn't really notice anything unless it was a large leak or something that is close to an exhaust manifold, showing visible steam etc.

The SAME exact thing was happening to me about a month ago. After I would climb a fairly large incline the temp would go up to about the top of the symbol. Then right when I reached the top of the "mountain" and started the decline it would cool off. Come to find out the lines to my oil cooler were not tight enough. No visible signs other than seeing the needle move. After I re-tightened all my small coolant lines, temp needle no longer moves.

Ideally, you would want to pressure test your coolant system or get it done somewhere.

Cool ima go check a shop tomorrow to pressure test my system thanks again

 

[952g63t]

Any luck?

 

[ThunderChild]

i would say youre having a tune issue under load, but you shouldve noticed the problem before the rad change. i concur with 952g63t, you have an air bubble somewhere that needs burped out.

 

[Vdubzr32]

its been awhile. well i did alot to the car cant seem to update on my profile for some reason. anyway i still have the same problem as before the cars temp rises to the tip of the temp logo.

i changed the rebuilt head and new head gasket, new radiator, installed new fans, installed new oem water pump, new thermostat,

i have no idea why it would over heat slightly.

highway driving stay cool, idle stays cool, only when im driving in stop and go traffic or light to light

 

[Dhan]

Check the water temperature gauge sending unit.

Or install an aftermarket temp gauge that is more accurate than the vague OEM gauge.

 

[rough]

Did you flush the radiator before putting it on? Animals like to make nests in them or rest in peace in them while they wait for a buyer in their warehouse.

Also check your radiator hoses "primarily the lower one" Give it gas almost redlining it and watch your hose, does it contract ? It might be sucking together causing your overheating issues from stop light to stop light.

 

[Vdubzr32]

Check the water temperature gauge sending unit.

Or install an aftermarket temp gauge that is more accurate than the vague OEM gauge.

i know its not the Temp Gauge. due to the fact that i monitored the temp with ECM Linkv3 on the laptop. also my oil temp rises when the temp gauge rises for a period of time. thank tho.[DOUBLEPOST=1412346538][/DOUBLEPOST]

Did you flush the radiator before putting it on? Animals like to make nests in them or rest in peace in them while they wait for a buyer in their warehouse.

Also check your radiator hoses "primarily the lower one" Give it gas almost redlining it and watch your hose, does it contract ? It might be sucking together causing your overheating issues from stop light to stop light.

yea the raditor was clean and flushed. ok if it sucks togther what can that be?

what about a system flush could that help.

 

[Dhan]

i know its not the Temp Gauge. due to the fact that i monitored the temp with ECM Linkv3 on the laptop.

Where do you think the ECU, and consequently ECMlink, get the water temperature that displays on your laptop Triple check wiring to/from that sensor for kicks.

Overheating can only be caused by a few things. You said you did a head gasket (and tested the cylinder compression afterwards I assume), so it isn't a HG issue.
Air bubble is possible, but at this point, I'd drain the coolant again, get a hold of a pressure washer and blast out that cooling system. I did this just a month ago after getting the suggestion from another member on here. I didn't have a cooling problem, but a lot of built up gunk came out of that system.
I know you flushed the rad, but the coolant flows through the block, the heater core, the pump, the turbo, etc. Lots of places for gunk to hide.

Sounds dumb and obvious, but also confirm it is a 50/50 coolant mixture.

EDIT: what temp is ECMlink displaying at its hottest?

 

[Vdubzr32]

Where do you think the ECU, and consequently ECMlink, get the water temperature that displays on your laptop Triple check wiring to/from that sensor for kicks.

Overheating can only be caused by a few things. You said you did a head gasket (and tested the cylinder compression afterwards I assume), so it isn't a HG issue.
Air bubble is possible, but at this point, I'd drain the coolant again, get a hold of a pressure washer and blast out that cooling system. I did this just a month ago after getting the suggestion from another member on here. I didn't have a cooling problem, but a lot of built up gunk came out of that system.
I know you flushed the rad, but the coolant flows through the block, the heater core, the pump, the turbo, etc. Lots of places for gunk to hide.

Sounds dumb and obvious, but also confirm it is a 50/50 coolant mixture.

EDIT: what temp is ECMlink displaying at its hottest?

Understood. ECM displayed 229 temp.

Also my fan is ran direct always running

 

[oren hughbanks]

Dont forget your fans too! Are u sure they are operating ok? Stock fans or slim fans?? Good quality slim fans or cheap cx racing eBay Amazon fans? If your using a OEM lower radiator hose it shouldn't collapse they r braided and reinforced just for that reason. Also always remember to fill your radiator up through your overflow. Once your coolant heats up and expands it'll fill up the overflow and push put any air bubbles too then once it cools it'll draw it back in. make sure the overflow hose isn't cracked or leaking or has a small hole that could prevent it from siphoning back in.

 

[Vdubzr32]

Dont forget your fans too! Are u sure they are operating ok? Stock fans or slim fans?? Good quality slim fans or cheap cx racing eBay Amazon fans? If your using a OEM lower radiator hose it shouldn't collapse they r braided and reinforced just for that reason. Also always remember to fill your radiator up through your overflow. Once your coolant heats up and expands it'll fill up the overflow and push put any air bubbles too then once it cools it'll draw it back in. make sure the overflow hose isn't cracked or leaking or has a small hole that could prevent it from siphoning back in.

They are slim fans by flex-lite
Yea it should be oem lower rad. Hose let me double check tho.

 

[Dhan]

The fan doesn't do anything when you're moving, it's for when you are at a stop or moving slowly. The airflow when driving moves more air than the fan.

Having the shroud on the fan(s) is very important to its effectiveness, as is the ducting to the radiator. W/o that flimsy plastic to direct the air, the radiator becomes less effective, even at highway speeds.

EDIT: which car are we talking about? The green 2g Talon in your profile? That big FMIC may be a part of the problem.

 

[oren hughbanks]

Any other signs other than the gauge? Does it smell hot or like antifreeze?, and are u sure the fans are turning the right way? Are they both coming on or just one

 

[Vdubzr32]

The issue is weird tho. At idle no over heating. On highway no over heating

Only while on local roads. And it doesn't even go fully to max heat. It stops exact at the temps symbol top.

It's driving me instane.[DOUBLEPOST=1412358088][/DOUBLEPOST]

Any other signs other than the gauge? Does it smell hot or like antifreeze?, and are u sure the fans are turning the right way? Are they both coming on or just one

The fan are plug direct once car is turned on. One fan is ran direct. So yes its on. No smell of coolant.

 

[Dhan]

I'm still not convinced that temp gauge/water temp sensor is accurate.

Even the stock boost gauge is off. Of the three turbo DSMs I've had, they've all had an accurate aftermarket boost gauge. None of the stock boost gauges ever match what the aftermarket gauge says.

 

[Vdubzr32]

I'm still not convinced that temp gauge/water temp sensor is accurate.

Even the stock boost gauge is off. Of the three turbo DSMs I've had, they've all had an accurate aftermarket boost gauge. None of the stock boost gauges ever match what the aftermarket gauge says.

Ok if it's the gauge. Only thing that concerns me is that oil temp is an innovate digital gauge and it reads 230f as the the cars temp rises.[DOUBLEPOST=1412358642][/DOUBLEPOST]Im a get a new temp gauge. Just to cross that out.

 

[Dhan]

Which car are we talking about? The green 2g Talon in your profile? That big FMIC may be a part of the problem.

You could just keep burping it, as that's free and easy. My old Laser kept air in the system forever and needed to be burped endlessly. Whereas my 92 Talon needed maybe two minutes of burping and that was it.

 

[oren hughbanks]

Not even closely remotely matched. I even have the cheapo EQUUS AutoZone gauge, and it's dead on with my Apexi avcr. I'll see -10lbs on both my boost gauges, and the stock one will b at zero.

 

[Vdubzr32]

Which car are we talking about? The green 2g Talon in your profile? That big FMIC may be a part of the problem.

You could just keep burping it, as that's free and easy. My old Laser kept air in the system forever and needed to be burped endlessly. Whereas my 92 Talon needed maybe two minutes of burping and that was it.

Burping it is too run it with the thermostat cap off until it stops bubbling[DOUBLEPOST=1412359373][/DOUBLEPOST]

Burping it is too run it with the thermostat cap off until it stops bubbling

Yea the profile car the green talon

My orange bug has no over heating problem

 

[Dhan]

Yeah, or just grip the upper coolant hose and squeeze with the rad. cap off. Air bubbles will come up.

 

[luv2rallye]

Did you test/replace radiator cap?

Proper burping: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/operation-temperature-problems.475004/#post-153386862

This may also help: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=DgxbPHX-W_M