opinions on boost to run

[gsxjohnny5]

How much psi could I run without breaking a bunch of stuff ? What should I change if it is cheap and would help Max my safe psi? What psi should I set my fuel regulator? Do I need bigger injectors before I get my car taken apart? And finally the money maker question. How much crank and awhp should I be around?(I may never know since everyone talks bad about the awd Dynos around here)

I've done research but like doctors a mechanical second opinion sometimes will save your life or five grand. thanks you guys are the best.
-Rebuilt Motor the catch * was rebuilt before I bought it. The past owner said it has 10k miles and new cranks rods and that's all I remember but it was aftermarket bottom end. He did say 400hp no problem
-Slow Boyz Racing Manifold
-Tial External Waste Gate(gold or copper)
-16g small turbo (stock 9 psi for now)
-2.5'' Exhaust
-N1 Muffler
-Dejon Front Mount Intercooler
-Radiator
-GM MAF
-Mass Air Flow Translator
-550cc injectors
-apexi safc
-wally 255
-aem polished fuel rail
-aeromotive fpr still needs hooked up if not needed like previous owner said hollar
-HKS SSQ Blow Of Valve
-EvoX Intake
-A/C delete
-act clutch and fly

-aem uego
-turbo x's controller

 

[1995 gst]

This may sound silly but does actually make a difference, what type of spark plugs and spark plug wires are you currently using?

 

[V12 Killa]

This may sound silly but does actually make a difference, what type of spark plugs and spark plug wires are you currently using?

Yes what type of plugs he uses make a difference even what gap they're set to, also. Someone shouldn't be using NGK BPR8ES on their stock setup since their 2 steps colder plugs than stock one but rather BPR6ES plugs (stock) (*Just an example not sure what plugs he's running).

Anyways to be honest it depends what you feel your car can handle without breaking parts but on the other hand it's what your setup can max out to. The biggest injectors SAFC can tune are 650cc (their recommend limit). So for any bigger injectors, you need to sale the SAFC & MAF Translator and buy ECMLink V3 and their cable. The AFPR should be set at 43.5

 

[spydergstftw]

clearly, he was saying it right. He is meaning to sell the afc and maft and buy ecmlink v3 which I agree because though I am not very great at tuning and as soon as I get my rebuild done I will need to redo all the idle and cruise tuning as well as actually tune it for WOT. But in any event, ecmlink is a highly recommended tuning program and I think it is ###### the best out there when it comes to tunability andcustomer support

 

[dot45]

Oops, need more coffee this morning

 

[bmoha7321]

255 reg pressure or hi pressure; both need AFPR. You're over running the stock FPR.
Also 255 would benefit from rewire. Stock wire is small.

Headstuds. I don't run more than 21 psi on stock 2G headstuds. ARP is the key.

 

[skatershawn]

16psi!! (IMO because its commonly ran On stock and slightly moded cars)

550's on a 16g wont take you too much further than stock injectors!
To accurately answer your question, you will need to get some time of tuning and log software to insure the safety of you motor!
One car might be good on 20+psi but another might snap a rod at 14psi! Its all on your setup and most importantly your TUNE!

There is really no way of giving you a definite answer!!

 

[Tfitch90]

How much psi could I run without breaking a bunch of stuff ? What should I change if it is cheap and would help Max my safe psi? What psi should I set my fuel regulator? Do I need bigger injectors before I get my car taken apart? And finally the money maker question. How much crank and awhp should I be around?(I may never know since everyone talks bad about the awd Dynos around here)

I've done research but like doctors a mechanical second opinion sometimes will save your life or five grand. thanks you guys are the best.
-Rebuilt Motor the catch * was rebuilt before I bought it. The past owner said it has 10k miles and new cranks rods and that's all I remember but it was aftermarket bottom end. He did say 400hp no problem
-Slow Boyz Racing Manifold
-Tial External Waste Gate(gold or copper)
-16g small turbo (stock 9 psi for now)
-2.5'' Exhaust
-N1 Muffler
-Dejon Front Mount Intercooler
-Radiator
-GM MAF
-Mass Air Flow Translator
-550cc injectors
-apexi safc
-wally 255
-aem polished fuel rail
-aeromotive fpr still needs hooked up if not needed like previous owner said hollar
-HKS SSQ Blow Of Valve
-EvoX Intake
-A/C delete
-act clutch and fly

-aem uego
-turbo x's controller

Your car has a crank not cranks. Maybe you forgot to menton pistons but if you dont even know what rods and crank was used I doubt you know the compression ratio of the pistons (if aftermarket). Did he say it had 400hp or it can handle ? Either way I dont see you making 400 on the small 16g. Buy a set of used bigger injectors and a dsmlink, I only say used because I dont know if your on a budget. Just so you know the details of your car you should contact the seller of your car and ask what brands did he use on the rebuild. I dont see how a buyer could buy a car with out any reciepts of the products he claimed to use. As far as boost and power goes it all depends on the tune.

 

[spyderturbo007]

The bottle neck in your system right now is the 550cc injectors. It's not a question of pressure, it's a question of airflow. Everyone is always obsessed with boost pressure, but it's not something that is consistent across all vehicles.

The 550's at an IDC of 80% can support 31.58lbs/min of airflow. So keep in under that number without knocking and boost pressure becomes irrelevant.

 

[gsxjohnny5]

The past owner is a steroid loving d word. He is not friendly about anything now. He got rid of this car for an srt and he could care less. And I have ngk irradiums. I was avoiding dam link BC I guess I have to replace ecu. Will dam link actually correct stalling problems in place of MAFT with atmospheric bov? Just when I contacted dsmlink they gave me a thousand dollar list to buy including some speed sensor. So like I said I have been avoiding it. Also he said would handle four hundred but four hundred crank or whp u will just have to blow a motor to figure it out

 

[dot45]

The past owner is a steroid loving d word. He is not friendly about anything now. He got rid of this car for an srt and he could care less. And I have ngk irradiums. I was avoiding dam link BC I guess I have to replace ecu. Will dam link actually correct stalling problems in place of MAFT with atmospheric bov? Just when I contacted dsmlink they gave me a thousand dollar list to buy including some speed sensor. So like I said I have been avoiding it. Also he said would handle four hundred but four hundred crank or whp u will just have to blow a motor to figure it out

As for the stalling issue, I've read a few posts now that say if you move the MAF to after the BOV (closer to the throttle body) it should take care of the issue. Since with the sensor in that location vs stock, the computer will not have measured the air prior to the bov, so it wont care at all about what gets vented.

I'm hoping someone more athoritative chime's in to confirm this, but it does make sense.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

As for the stalling issue, I've read a few posts now that say if you move the MAF to after the BOV (closer to the throttle body) it should take care of the issue. Since with the sensor in that location vs stock, the computer will not have measured the air prior to the bov, so it wont care at all about what gets vented.

I'm hoping someone more athoritative chime's in to confirm this, but it does make sense.

I think what your trying to get across is running a GM Maf in the upper IC pipe, I have never seen a stock one relocated there. The rest is correct.

You can definitely do that with DSMLink, and you don't even need a MAF translator with Link V3. I've seen DSMLink + Eprom go for $550ish on the forums, then a GM Maf and cable and you could be in for well under $1000 if you wanted to go that route.

Is the speed sensor your talking about from a speed density set-up? That's another option.

Lastly DSMLink also has a feature for running an atmospheric BOV with the stock MAF called idle air simulation. Not sure how well it works.

Joel

 

[dot45]

I think what your trying to get across is running a GM Maf in the upper IC pipe, I have never seen a stock one relocated there. The rest is correct.

You can definitely do that with DSMLink, and you don't even need a MAF translator with Link V3. I've seen DSMLink + Eprom go for $550ish on the forums, then a GM Maf and cable and you could be in for well under $1000 if you wanted to go that route.

Is the speed sensor your talking about from a speed density set-up? That's another option.

Lastly DSMLink also has a feature for running an atmospheric BOV with the stock MAF called idle air simulation. Not sure how well it works.

Joel

According to the OP, his car has a GM MAF already

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

According to the OP, his car has a GM MAF already

And yet again I get owned by skimming .

Joel

 

[2g4me]

IDC isnt really relative to how much boost you can make, its just how much fuel its throwing in, you can be at 100% IDC and still be fine. I was at 107% before i hit fuel cut at 19psi on stock injectors, i lowered it to 18 even and it ran great. Ya i know some of you are gonna say you cant run 18psi on stock injectors, well, i did and for nearly a year before i got bigger ones. Different cars will do different things.

Anyway back on subject. You wont know anything till you try it, BUT seems like your gonna have to pull the motor apart (I would) to find out whats really in there, you'll run into 2 possible scenarios...1 its all stock and now your pissed off, BUT now with it being apart you can throw some goodies in there, or 2 you DO have some goodies in there and now you know what you have, at least you'll have some ground to stand on to get started and give you a better idea/path of what your options are.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

IDC isnt really relative to how much boost you can make, its just how much fuel its throwing in, you can be at 100% IDC and still be fine. I was at 107% before i hit fuel cut at 19psi on stock injectors, i lowered it to 18 even and it ran great. Ya i know some of you are gonna say you cant run 18psi on stock injectors, well, i did and for nearly a year before i got bigger ones. Different cars will do different things.

Anyway back on subject. You wont know anything till you try it, BUT seems like your gonna have to pull the motor apart (I would) to find out whats really in there, you'll run into 2 possible scenarios...1 its all stock and now your pissed off, BUT now with it being apart you can throw some goodies in there, or 2 you DO have some goodies in there and now you know what you have, at least you'll have some ground to stand on to get started and give you a better idea/path of what your options are.

High IDC drastically decreases the life of the injectors, not to mention you should not be running your injectors to the point of becoming static. Being at 100% Duty cycle is not fine.

Joel

 

[2g4me]

High IDC drastically decreases the life of the injectors, not to mention you should not be running your injectors to the point of becoming static. Being at 100% Duty cycle is not fine.

Joel

Note i typed "it ran great", it may not be "good" for the injectors but i didnt discuss anything about lifespan, they still "worked" fine either way, at least i never had an issue even at 105% IDC for nearly a year, hell i've had bigger injectors go bad at under 60% IDC. But regardless, were not here to tell injector life stories.

 

[spyderturbo007]

you can be at 100% IDC and still be fine. I was at 107% before i hit fuel cut at 19psi on stock injectors, i lowered it to 18 even and it ran great.

Running any injector over 80% IDC is just a bad idea. You hit fuel cut because of reaching the ECU's airflow cap, not because of the injector IDC. Fuel cut has nothing at all to do with fuel delivery, only airflow.

And I have ngk irradiums.

I would recommend that you throw the Iridium plugs in the trash and pick up a set of plain old copper NGK's. Iridium plus are designed to retain heat in an attempt to prevent the plugs from fouling. In most engines it's a good idea, but add them to a turbocharged car and you're asking for trouble. This additional heat leads to an increased possibility of knock.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

Note i typed "it ran great", it may not be "good" for the injectors but i didnt discuss anything about lifespan, they still "worked" fine either way, at least i never had an issue even at 105% IDC for nearly a year, hell i've had bigger injectors go bad at under 60% IDC. But regardless, were not here to tell injector life stories.

You said you can be at 100% IDC and still be fine, which you are not. Also 105% Duty cycle is the same as 100%. They are static, anything above 100% and they are just wide open and you lose control of fueling, but regardless, we're not here to tell you how to run your engine.

Joel

 

[2g4me]

You said you can be at 100% IDC and still be fine, which you are not. Also 105% Duty cycle is the same as 100%. They are static, anything above 100% and they are just wide open and you lose control of fueling, but regardless, we're not here to tell you how to run your engine.

Joel

Lol, well if you wanna get all technical, "static" is just another term for 100%, just as wide open is beyond that, if it wasnt beyond 100% it wouldnt be wide open, there still being pushed beyond 100%. And tho i ran em hard for that long, they tested as new and my friend whos now using them has no issues. What can i say, them stockers aint bad at all.

 

[Arthris]

If he has a GM maf already hes probly got a translator. That can still mean hes on the stock ECU. since ## car is a 98 I would see if ## ECU is flashable. Refer to this thread and find out http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...first-flashed-dsm-ecu-98-99-flashing-faq.html

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

Lol, well if you wanna get all technical, "static" is just another term for 100%, just as wide open is beyond that, if it wasnt beyond 100% it wouldnt be wide open, there still being pushed beyond 100%. And tho i ran em hard for that long, they tested as new and my friend whos now using them has no issues. What can i say, them stockers aint bad at all.

This is just a reword of what I said .

Joel

 

[2g4me]

This is just a reword of what I said .

Joel

No, just the more "technical" version since you tried tellin me i was wrong while throwing different terms in your lil speech, in any case...who cares