Oil return line question.

[subie22]

I am looking to possibly replace my return hose/line, with a stainless steel one. But i have one issue. The bolts that bolt into the oil pan, well they are only in there by nuts in the inside the oil pan and i guess they are tacked welded and i guess one broke off the weld. So the last time i had to do work in that area. I had to drop the oil pan and transfercase to get that nut out of my oil pan, which means no fun. And i know if i replace it i am goonna have to replace that pipe that is sticking out. Does anyone know of a way to put the new line in without actually disconnecting it from the oil pan. The turbo i am not worried about. I just dont want no leaks.

 

[absolute_DSM]

Drop your oil pan, tack that nut back in its place.

Buy the DSM adapter for a 10AN or whatever you plan on using. Itll allow you to bolt up an AN fitting.

 

[talonz27]

or get a new oil pan.. then get the 10an fittings that go on the turbo and the pan and go to a local plumbing store and get a stainless line built. its by far cheaper than buying a return line kit from SBR or anywhere else.

 

[BUCK]

Drop your oil pan, tack that nut back in its place.

Buy the DSM adapter for a 10AN or whatever you plan on using. Itll allow you to bolt up an AN fitting.

NO WAY~!

or get a new oil pan.. then get the 10an fittings that go on the turbo and the pan and go to a local plumbing store and get a stainless line built. its by far cheaper than buying a return line kit from SBR or anywhere else.

DOUBLE NO WAY~!

All you need to do is Tap the existing Oil Pan Threads to American 1/4-20 - A much stronger Thread than the POS 10MM metric thread - On your new 1/4-20 Fastener & lockwasher use the Copper Washer looking piece off any similar ID electrical lug as your crush washer.

 

[talonz27]

you could even have a 10an fitting welded on to the pan if you really dont want to worry about leaks!

i dont see a problem with either of our solutions. i dont know why you telling him no way!?

 

[absolute_DSM]

you could even have a 10an fitting welded on to the pan if you really dont want to worry about leaks!

i dont see a problem with either of our solutions. i dont know why you telling him no way!?

I weld everything shut then tap a 7/8 hole in the pan and use a 10AN bulkhead. A cheaper yet easier way of doing it.

 

[BUCK]

I weld everything shut then tap a 7/8 hole in the pan and use a 10AN bulkhead. A cheaper yet easier way of doing it.

I concur that IF you have the Oil Pan off you should do this Mod & I wish I had done your Mod when I had mine off - But I'll be DAMNED if I'd take the Oil Pan back off just to do this Mod when a 1/4-20 Tap & 2 Copper Washers & 2 1/4-20 Bolts is a good solid fix.

 

[cruisintalonawd]

Yeah maybe $5 at most unless he doesn't have the tap and the 10AN line are pretty pricey

 

[absolute_DSM]

I'll be DAMNED if that's cheaper than a 1/4-20 Tap & 2 Copper Lugs & 2 1/4-20 Bolts.

Im comparing buying an "adapter fitting" for the pan + the 10AN fittings to make it work compared to just using a bulkhead fitting with 2 AN nuts ($10 tops)

He doesnt want the stock return line, he wants a stainless line. You should read the original post before replying.

The BEST way to solve this is to just tack the nut back on the pan. Thats free! Thats the smartest thing to in this situation.

 

[silver bullit]

You still have to take the oil pan off since if you re drill it, tap the existing bolt hole, put a an fitting with a new bolt and nut.
You still have to drop the pan or risk getting metal shavings in the pan and the motor.
Its not that hard to drop the pan and t-case, do this on a day off. Do it right the first time, instead of half-ass fixing it.

 

[absolute_DSM]

NO WAY~!



DOUBLE NO WAY~!

All you need to do is Tap the existing Oil Pan Threads to American 1/4-20 - A much stronger Thread than the POS 10MM metric thread - On your new 1/4-20 Fastener & lockwasher use the Copper Washer looking piece off any similar ID electrical lug as your crush washer.

You edited your thread, nice. And you still arent reading what the OP is saying.

The nuts tacks are broke, the nut is no longer holding so he essentially has a bolt and nut.

And, there is nothing wrong with metric.

Honestly, I dont think you understand anything were talking about.

Just like silver bullit says, the oil pan has to be dropped no matter what.

 

[silver bullit]

Since THE OIL PAN HAS TO BE DROPPED, you should clean it, maybe paint it and check your bottom end.