oil return line question

[mitsuclipsegsx]

i replaced my oil return line must of been w/ the 2g install kit it looked cheap.like the stock ic pipe for a 2g, so anyways when i bought my 99 gsx it came w/ an extra 6 bolt block and 1g oil return line(not in car) i installed it now when i drive my car is smoking, oil everywhere, undernth car, not much casue my dipstick reads full,know the rings on a 1g oil line(middle of it) i think its leaking their,are they know to leak...

 

[ddavisaf]

If oil is all over the bottom of the car, the smoke is probably from the oil hitting the exhaust. Try cleaning EVERYTHING underneath the car, locate the drip, seal it, then see if your car is still smoking.

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

If oil is all over the bottom of the car, the smoke is probably from the oil hitting the exhaust. Try cleaning EVERYTHING underneath the car, locate the drip, seal it, then see if your car is still smoking.

see thats the hard part i wash undernth then drive it and oil is everywhere hard to tell where it is, but i am 90% its from oil return line i put silicone on and drove it 5 min after, i am suppose to wait 24 hrs so we'll see tomarrow

thanks

 

[olmytsi]

Its either a leak on the oil return at the turbo or the oil pan. Make sure that return line is not clogged.

 

[skelly]

... i put silicone on and drove it 5 min after, i am suppose to wait 24 hrs...

umm.. yep! Running hot oil past fresh silicone will easily gause it to leak. You'd be better off cutting up a good paper gasket to put in there as it is OEM - and there's no waiting after that.

- SK

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

wtf i did it again.... put new gasket on and silcone and waited 24 hrs and it is still leaking, everytime i stop driving its starts to smoke ... i think its the leaking through the bolt on oil pan side what would casue that... or in the middle of the oil return line the rings i see oil their too, this is driving me nuts

 

[skelly]

... put new gasket on and silcone...

a "new gasket" as in an OEM-style paper gasket AND silicone? You shouldn't require any additional sealant with a good gasket on there. Heck I cut my own gaskets for this flange from raw gasket material using the original as a template and it isn't leaking. as long as you have a good gasket on a true flange with proper torque, you should be good to go.

- SK

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

a "new gasket" as in an OEM-style paper gasket AND silicone? You shouldn't require any additional sealant with a good gasket on there. Heck I cut my own gaskets for this flange from raw gasket material using the original as a template and it isn't leaking. as long as you have a good gasket on a true flange with proper torque, you should be good to go.

- SK

then why am i leaking???

 

[skelly]

then why am i leaking???

Perhaps the flange on the drain tube has been bent and couldn't possibly seal any more? I couldn't say without checking it for myself, but what I listed above is all it should take.

- SK

 

[captd108]

just how much is coming out?
does any come out while the car is sitting and off?
do you notice any coming from where the flange meets the pan, or from where the flange on the otherside meets the turbo or is it coming out from the drain line itself?
Finally, you mentioned two oil return lines in your first post, a rubber one that comes with 2g kits and a 1g, which one are you actually using. If its the rubber one get rid of it they pinch and clog up and damage your turbo over time also they dont seal very well and sometimes the screws that come with it are too small in diameter and dont match up at the pan. I had one and had leaking problems at the pan but it was because the screw were the wrong size, then after a month or so the hose started not holding pressure and it started to pinch so i went with a 1g line.

 

[ddavisaf]

OK. Lets kill this problem.

Take the return line off the car. Goto an autoparts store and get the correct paper gasket. Before you put the line back on your car, thread the bolts into the pan and see if they are holding or not. Pan is really thin, so if you tightened the bolts to much then you've ensured they won't hold. If they don't hold then rethread the holes. Take the oil return line with the flange to the ground and beat it with a hammer to even it out and make the edges flat and flush with the pan. MAke sure you scrape off any of the old gaskets that may be stuck on the line and the pan to ensure proper sealing occurs.

If you follow this ^^^ Word for word step by step then your oil return line is not leaking. Unless there's a hole in it.

 

[skelly]

...Take the oil return line with the flange to the ground and beat it with a hammer...

Not a bad idea, but I'd suggest using a slightly better surface than just "the ground" - something that's nice and flat and isn't going to embed dirt or grooves/nicks into the mating face if there's a grain of sand under it, etc.

- SK

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

just how much is coming out?
does any come out while the car is sitting and off?
do you notice any coming from where the flange meets the pan, or from where the flange on the otherside meets the turbo or is it coming out from the drain line itself?
Finally, you mentioned two oil return lines in your first post, a rubber one that comes with 2g kits and a 1g, which one are you actually using. If its the rubber one get rid of it they pinch and clog up and damage your turbo over time also they dont seal very well and sometimes the screws that come with it are too small in diameter and dont match up at the pan. I had one and had leaking problems at the pan but it was because the screw were the wrong size, then after a month or so the hose started not holding pressure and it started to pinch so i went with a 1g line.

enough to show on dipstick but it hits my exhaust and smokes and i dont need another fire, it only comes out when i drive it, not idle(or reving), it leaks from the flange to pan seems like its leaking through the bolt,maybe...
and i have the 1g oil return line now, i had the rubber one beofore it is leaking more w/ the 1g

 

[mitsuclipsegsx]

OK. Lets kill this problem.

Take the return line off the car. Goto an autoparts store and get the correct paper gasket. Before you put the line back on your car, thread the bolts into the pan and see if they are holding or not. Pan is really thin, so if you tightened the bolts to much then you've ensured they won't hold. If they don't hold then rethread the holes. Take the oil return line with the flange to the ground and beat it with a hammer to even it out and make the edges flat and flush with the pan. MAke sure you scrape off any of the old gaskets that may be stuck on the line and the pan to ensure proper sealing occurs.

If you follow this ^^^ Word for word step by step then your oil return line is not leaking. Unless there's a hole in it.

thats what i have been doing,going to a mitsu dealer to get the oem gasket, how do i rethread the oil pan, i did tighten those bolts pretty tight

 

[captd108]

perhaps from all the tightening and unightening you've done between all those different lines could have messed up the threads on the pan?

 

[Defiant]

You also must have crush washers under the bolt heads. You can use snipped-off electrical ring terminals (those big ones in the kit you never use) as subsitutes.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104234

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[ddavisaf]

thats what i have been doing,going to a mitsu dealer to get the oem gasket, how do i rethread the oil pan, i did tighten those bolts pretty tight

Tap and Die set. Find the right size and goto town on it.

And and smashing the piss out of the flange, take a die grinder and hit the flange good to make sure you don't have any debris on it.