Oil Pump and Crank Sprocket removal.

[subie22]

Ok, today i finished taking out the pistons, know im trying to get the crank out. I know i need to take the front case off and the rear main seal out. But know ive seem to be in a slight pickle. I cant seem to get the oil pump sprocket and cranksprockt off. its on a engine stand, the timming belt is off and i have no air tools at my house. So whats the best way to take both of those sprockets off. I want to go and take the block to a machinist, so i can start rebuilding my engine. For the record, ive only rebuild one other engine and that was a chevy 350 when i was at school. Im very close to actually having this motor fully disassembled. Ive also searched but didnt come up with much. Ive read use a puller or toss a towler into the crank and try, But that still wouldnt help me take out the oil pump sprocket. Any help would be nice.

 

[romeen]

Yes, use a puller. I just did this last week. Crank sprocket came off w/out a problem. Oil pump sprocket was on tight. I rented a 3 jaw puller from Autozone (you get the deposit back when you return it). Made the job much easier.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

How'd your install go Romeen? I haven't heard from you, so I assume all went well.

pullers are awesome, but using a rubber mallet and lots of whacking usually does the job too. The sprockets are on a circle with a flat spot, so if you wiggle and rock the sprocket it will come off.

 

[subie22]

well isnt it bolted to the engine block, like some of the idler pulleys? Since theres a bolt right in the middle of it. Thats what im asking, on how to take that off without the crank and oil sprockets spinning?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

well isnt it bolted to the engine block, like some of the idler pulleys? Since theres a bolt right in the middle of it. Thats what im asking, on how to take that off without the crank and oil sprockets spinning?

yes, I believe there is a 14mm nut holding the sprocket on (maybe 12mm?). I like just shoving a big a towel in between the crank and going to town.

 

[subie22]

ok well what about the oil pump sprocket, the balance shafts are already removed.

 

[romeen]

How'd your install go Romeen? I haven't heard from you, so I assume all went well.

Believe it or not, I haven't had a chance to do any more work on it since last week. All I have to do is tension the belt and replace accessories. Unfortunately it's raining today. Hopefully tomorrow.

Big thanks to you and Pat (1992awdlaser). With your guy's help I think I may have survived my first t-belt job.

well isnt it bolted to the engine block, like some of the idler pulleys? Since theres a bolt right in the middle of it. Thats what im asking, on how to take that off without the crank and oil sprockets spinning?

ok well what about the oil pump sprocket, the balance shafts are already removed.

An impact gun made removal easy for me.

Nonetheless, I wanted to make sure I torqued the crank sprocket bolt correctly so I made a "tool" as Tom suggested to hold the sprocket while allowing access to the bolt. No laughing here guys. This is UGLY, but it does work. I was tired of spending money for tools and materials so I went a bit ghetto here. The only scrap metal I could find was an old section of steel pipe. So I flattened one end in a vise. Used crank sprocket to make marks for the main center bolt as well as two of the smaller bolts which attach the crank pulley to the sprocket. Then drilled, cut/grinded the holes I needed. This ugly looking but fully functional "thing" is what I came up with. I used two bolts to secure it to sprocket. This allows the crank to be held in place while allowing me to get a 22mm socket in there to tighten/loosen the sprocket bolt. Since you can't use the screwdriver on rear bs method to hold the oil pump I suppose you could temporarily reinstall the t-belt and while holding the crank stationary (with tool or whatever method you come up with) use the tension of the belt to keep the oil pump from spinning.

 

[subie22]

so thats the only way i can remove this know. Theres gotta be another. Isnt still goingto spin, i dont think most impact guns have that kind of tq.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

No, that tool is suffice. I still prefer the towel method. Just shove the shit out of it and it'll be OK. If you have the BSE already done, just take a 12mm wrench to the stub and hold it while you undo the bolt on the oil pump sprocket.

 

[subie22]

ok, sound good, thats what i figured, but what happens when i need to install all that back and, i just got my block machined, i rele wouldnt want to shove a towel in there. you know.

 

[romeen]

No, it's not the only way. Just letting you know what worked for me. Also, a tool bolted to the crank is probably the safest way.

You can try Tom's suggestion of wedging something between the crank and block.

I think I also saw a thread where someone removed the flywheel inspection cover and jammed a screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing. I have no personal experience with this and don't know how safe or effective it is but it's something you can consider.

But I can't imagine even the cheapest of impact guns not having enough torque to get those off. Mine isn't expensive at all but it has 260 lb/ft of max torque. It spun the crank sprocket bolt off literally in under 2 seconds without spinning the crank whatsoever.

Hell, I imagine you could even make the "tool" using a section of 2x4, 2x6, etc. and some longer bolts to reach the crank sprocket. Just anything that will bolt on and give you some leverage to keep the crank from turning.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Any impact gun should take the crank bolt off and put it back on without the use of any oher tool, without turning the crank.

I think I also saw a thread where someone removed the flywheel inspection cover and jammed a screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing. I have no personal experience with this and don't know how safe or effective it is but it's something you can consider.

This idea will work. I did this with a few vehicles when I was a mechanic.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

No, it's not the only way. Just letting you know what worked for me. Also, a tool bolted to the crank is probably the safest way.

You can try Tom's suggestion of wedging something between the crank and block.

I think I also saw a thread where someone removed the flywheel inspection cover and jammed a screwdriver between the teeth of the flywheel and the bell housing. I have no personal experience with this and don't know how safe or effective it is but it's something you can consider.

But I can't imagine even the cheapest of impact guns not having enough torque to get those off. Mine isn't expensive at all but it has 260 lb/ft of max torque. It spun the crank sprocket bolt off literally in under 2 seconds without spinning the crank whatsoever.

Hell, I imagine you could even make the "tool" using a section of 2x4, 2x6, etc. and some longer bolts to reach the crank sprocket. Just anything that will bolt on and give you some leverage to keep the crank from turning.

My 345 ft/lb craftsman takes it off just fine I still don't know why it's such a bad thing about putting a towel on the crank. It's soft, stops the crank from moving, and is free. What more do you need?

Any impact gun should take the crank bolt off and put it back on without the use of any oher tool, without turning the crank.



This idea will work. I did this with a few vehicles when I was a mechanic.

What's up, Mr. Wiseman?

 

[subie22]

but the crank sprocket isnt the only one i need off. If i need to take the front case off i need to take off the oil pump sprocket also. Funny thing is i have a impact gun just no compressor which sucks.

 

[ROOKIE1]

If it is going to the shop take the front cover off . While at the shop worry about the pump sprocket .

 

[subie22]

yea true, i just want this crank out.

 

[AndrewD5418]

Anybody know that part number for a new crank sprocket? The one on the motor I bought has a chip on it on the back. It won't effect it but I'd rather put a good one on.

 

[1992awdlaser]

CAPS old part number is: MD141953

That number was superseded by MD326852.

 

[AndrewD5418]

I wonder what they changed..?

 

[twicks69]

As for the install/removal, I just use my impact, and either a couple of rags, or pull out a large jaw vise grips or my big set of channel-locks AND the impact. Never had a problem on removal or install of the oil pump pulley.

As for the crank pulley, using a pulley puller with the proper thread pitch/diameter bolts and a simple wrench or ratchet to tighten the puller will easily suffice for the removal. As for the installation, I usually use a piece of tubing larger in diameter than the crank to put even pressure on the pulley -- though I had no need for that during my last install; I just scotch-brited the crank up, and tossed a little PB blast, and slid it back on.

Don't forget to reinstall the timing mark tin if you remove it!

 

[1992awdlaser]

Tim, I'm not sure with the 2G but on a 1G the crank pulley will come off with just the tap of a hammer. This is true for the crank sprocket also. Just one light tap and you will be able to wiggle it off. Then they will easily slide back on. That is what I do anyway.

 

[twicks69]

Tim, I'm not sure with the 2G but on a 1G the crank pulley will come off with just the tap of a hammer. This is true for the crank sprocket also. Just one light tap and you will be able to wiggle it off. Then they will easily slide back on. That is what I do anyway.

I have had really easy ones, and I have had really hard ones over the years. Usually the 2G ones have sucked more because of whatever reasons. Usually the 1G's ones I have touched were either oil soaked from leaking cam seals, etc. that the lost fluids kept a nice anti-rust layer on all the moving parts.

I just like using a puller since I have one, and it is fairly easy to do this way, with no real guess work as to how-to-do it.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Usually the 1G's ones I have touched were either oil soaked from leaking cam seals, etc. that the lost fluids kept a nice anti-rust layer on all the moving parts.

Right you are.