The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Oil Leak On Oil Cover [Merged 9-7] cap gasket dipstick leaking pool

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Also check the cover for hairline cracks. I had a hairline crack around a bolt that was overtightened and my valve cover looked like a pond after hitting 15psi of boost. It's amazing what the smallest of cracks can do.
 
This just happend to me today . Thougt it was my cam seals so I replaced them , BUt it still was soked in oil after a short run . Pulled the v.c. and shure enough there was a hair line crack by the cam pully ends . I had another v.c. so I swaped it no more leaks . :thumb:
 
Your problem is most likely the oil cap. Go to strauss, autozone, pepboys whatevers and get some gasket that fits over the old oil cap. Just fit the new gasket over the oil cap and tighten the cap down. It should be a little tighter to close up but it will seal off all the excess oil that squirts out.
 
could it come from the crank seal? i think mine is bad cause now im getting oil on my exhaust manifold. and the o2 housing, n e ideas.
 
Iv'e had the same problem and discovered that the oil was coming from around the inner valve cover bolts themselves. my fix was simple. I backed the inner bolts all the way out cleaned them very good and took some ultra black silicone, layed a small bead around the underside of the bolt head, let them set up fur about 45 minutes, then screwed them back in place being carefull not to over tighten them which is easy to do on our cars. also, chech on the drvers side of the spark plug valley area of the cover for a small hairline crack. They're notorious for that too which will also cause (the mysterious oil from nowhere problem). Good luck. Hope this helps. Wes.
 
Its the oil cap. My car is doing the same thing. Everytime I boost it seems it sprays out oil and it goes into the spark plug area. I'm wondering how to stop it from leaking now .. I tried 2 different caps.
 
headrec* said:
Any ideas because there is a crap load up there after only a short drive. Thanks.

Spark plug tube seals are the technical term. It's probably not the oil cap considering you just jacked with the valve cover.

Did you put a thin layer of RTV on the spark plug tube seals and the valve cover gasket before putting it back on?

As asked previously, did you torque it to no more than 2 (yes, 2, TWO) foot-pounds?

If you didn't put RTV on it, pull it back apart and do so. If you overtorqued it, you probably need a new cover.
 
weshole said:
Iv'e had the same problem and discovered that the oil was coming from around the inner valve cover bolts themselves. my fix was simple.

I have the same problem. After a not so hard drive, my valve cover becomes a pond. I already had the valve cover gasket set replaced so that's not it. I'm going to replaced the oil cap gasket as soon as I get one but I don't think, that's it. I really suspect it's coming from the top bolt of the leftmost sparkplug well. My mechanic already put some black silicone on it but it is still leaking.

So my question is, if I replace the whole valve cover, would that fix it? Also, do any of you experienced a "misfire"(?). the engine seems to be struggling to move, when a plug start's getting wet with oil and some seeps into the well? Or do I have a much bigger problem?

Thanks.
 
i found my prob. it was my valve cover. it had a hairline crack just like they said before. i havent gotten around to fixing it yet but i will this weekend.
 
I have a hairline crack on mine too. Can you suggest somewhere I can buy a cheap valve cover? MachV sells one but they cost close to $300 :( Are those on ebay any good? For the meantime I'm going to temporarily seal that crack with Ultra black gasket maker. Or is that no good? Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
ive picked up/sold quite a few on ebay or the trader. Usually only cost 20-40 bucks. Theres always risk I guess but theres no need to pay 300 for a new one. Sometimes junkyard can work too.
 
DSM_One said:
I have a hairline crack on mine too. Can you suggest somewhere I can buy a cheap valve cover? MachV sells one but they cost close to $300 :( Are those on ebay any good? For the meantime I'm going to temporarily seal that crack with Ultra black gasket maker. Or is that no good? Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. :)
id use JB weld :thumb:
 
DSM_One said:
So my question is, if I replace the whole valve cover, would that fix it? Also, do any of you experienced a "misfire"(?). the engine seems to be struggling to move, when a plug start's getting wet with oil and some seeps into the well? Or do I have a much bigger problem?

Thanks.
ur plugs could be fowled or old or the porcelein on em could be cracked...in other words, bad plugs can cause ur car to have like tiny lil misfires, especially when ur on the pedal. the sp seals in the valve cover, as well as my entire valve cover gasket was leaking and i little bit of oil had been getting down to the spark. it looked a little damp, but the plugs needed replaced ne way. Bad sp or sp wires can cause your car to feel like it's not firing right, my wires literally crumbled when i pulled them out. i thought my ignition coil was going bad, but i started with the wires and plugs to see if it was them, and it was. replaced both, and car pulls great now. I tightened the valve cover too tight though and crushed the new gasket. :rolleyes: now when the car sits for a bit and i start it out again, a lil puff of oil smoke comes out my greddy sp muff. So, i think i crushed the sp seals too. But bad plugs or wires can lead to a misfire-not enough spark, sometimes to the point where it feels like your coil's goin.
 
so, replace the plugs and wires first (they're cheaper than the coil) , and if it still does it, i'd say it's the coil goin. but when they go, it usually feels like ur runnin on only 2 cyl.s
 
Thanks a lot guys but I still need your help.

Ok, I have replaced the valve cover, I bought one on ebay, so there are no more visible oil leaks. The spark plugs (NGK BPR7ES) and the wires are new. The valve cover gasket is new (FELLPRO), oil cap and gasket are new. New OEM Fuel Filter also. My ECU was replaced with a rebuilt one 3k miles ago. But I'm still having this damn misfire/engine stutter. :cry: The only thing left I have not done is check the coil pack. Or am I missing something?

Here is what happens: When the car had time to cool down, like in the morning, I have to pre-heat the car first. When it reached its normal temp, the engine starts to stutter and CEL lights up. I then have to shut it down and start it again, then its ok for a drive to the office. I'm just five miles away from the office so I wouldn't know, how it would behave on a long drive and I dont want to risk it. I have to repeat the whole process again after work.

Any ideas what this might be? The car a MT 1990 GST with no mods. Thanks in advance, I really need your help. Especially the Wisemen :)
 
go to radioshack and buy a 12v buzzer (5.99) and check your light. all you have to do is find the harness under the dash next to the fuse box. the top left corner is the power and the bottom right hand one is the ground. with the car turned off, hook up the power and ground wire to the harness. when you got that hooked up, turn the key to the on position, not starting but far enough to roll up your windows and stuff like that. you will then hear short tones and long tones. a series of them. the first one will be a short one and then it will be a long one followed by whichever. for example it goes something like this S-L-L-L-L-S-S-S and then you will hear a long pause before it will then repeat itself. in the example the long tones represent 10 each and the short ones represent 1 each. in the example the code would be 43. 4 long tones and 3 short tones. do not count the first tone. it is just there to let you know that it is starting to read the code. use it as the get ready tone. hope that helps. thats what i did to find my code. after you find the number look it up in the manuel or try searching on here. good luck to ya.
 
the 2 end plug boots have oil in them (and above the spark plug) and this results in oil building up in the valve cover, i changed the plug seals but its still happening.. what is it?!
 
This was happening with my car a few months ago, it ended up being a bad oil cap. It was leaking down into the spark plug cavity. I simply replaced it out and solved the problem. Hopefully this is the case with yours. Another possibility is if you have an aftermarket oil cap, the seals are not always lined up properly. If this is the case, use a paper gasket from a thermastat that fits around the base and add that on when you are screwing in the cap.
 
its either valve cover gaskets or the oil cap gasket. It happend all the time on our cars. If you get the valve cover gasket set make sure you get your O-ring gaskets and also the half moon gasket. Best place http://www.partznet.com/
I just did mine againnnnnnnnn yesterday. Their 36.00 something like that.
 
Its prolly the Oil Cap, they suck. I use a Ford Mustang Oil cap. fits better and has a better seal. Plus they look better. Try it out. Use a 5.0 mustang oil cap
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top