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1G Ohm racing harness....

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
Just like to share in the sexiness.....looking forward to getting this on the car. Anyone happen to know were im supposed to drill through in the bay.?
 

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If I was installing it, I'd make a blanking plate to cover the stock pass through, then cut the hole in it. Then use pop rivets and some silicone sealer to attach it to the fire wall.
 
Looks good I thought about buying one but I'm to cheap so I bought all the connectors and built my own. I ran mine through the hole my shift cables went through since I went auto.
 
Very nice. I've had my eyes on this one: http://www.rywire.com/product-p/4g63-1g.htm

Let me know how the OHM one works out.
I had it, its not plug and play and still requires alot of wiring. This is why i went ohm.

What did the setup cost?
1400 for the stage 3.......well worth it in my mind. I HATE wiring......HATE It. I love building engines/ transmission and fabricating. Bodywork and wiring can kiss my ass

Looks good I thought about buying one but I'm to cheap so I bought all the connectors and built my own. I ran mine through the hole my shift cables went through since I went auto.
You didnt have to drill the hole larger? Im going auto but dont want to do something i cant reverse if I want to go back to manual.

If i can support a vendor who supports our community....I do it. These people are the only way we have access to quality parts. I admire people who try hard to make high quality products like this.
 
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No I didn't the plugs fit through going from the inside to the outside but I also moved my ptu, resistor pack and 2 map sensors inside under my radio. The only connector that was tight was my 2g mas plug which is the same as the ptu.

I also didn't know if I'd go back to manual so I didn't run my shift cable through the stock hole I made a template and cut the hole in the floor in the same spot as autos to run it factory.

I also smoothed out my firewall so I don't have the stock harness hole
 
This is,still on my list a true piece for reliability, I hate the factory harness. Worth the money new ones if They were available work be 900, I checked years ago ,even with my dealership discount. I saw Mary Beth it was really Nice
 
Work started boys
 

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Really good spot. I never understood the factory lay out or the reasoning behind running the factory harness the way that it was. When I tucked my first harness I must of chopped about 5ft out of so.e of the wires.

When I built my newest harness other than the mas wiring I bet I don't have a wire longer than 5 ft.
 
Work started boys
Hey I just bought the same stage 3 harness for my 1g. And for the life of me I can’t find the 14 pin connector in their instructions to pin in myself. I’ve only found the 2 18 pin connectors, do you know exactly where the 14 pin connector is on the engine harness ?
 
Hope this helps

Whos the man
 

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Hi I'm semi new to The forum I have been reading for a few years to gain information on my talon. I was curious if anybody had the pinout for the 18 pin connector I just got my ohm racing harness I would like to get it installed as soon as possible. Thank you in advance for any help!
 
Hello you guys. I’m installing a stage 2 for a 1g. Still a bit confused with the harness having both right in front of me. There is a harness path that goes to a fuse box on the right side of the vehicle fender. Do I have to remove the old wires and adapt it with the new ohm harness? Also there is a “fuse box” connection with the harness that the connectors are located under the fuse box. There is a connector for that “fuse box” connector and also another 1 with a single pin connector which doesn’t come with the harness. Can someone please give me the run thru?
 
@Pulids27 Section of the harness that goes to the fuse box is ran through the passenger fender , you will only have one connector on the fuse box itself the other one remains open, you do not have to cut or solder any wires simply route through the fender for the wipers/fusebox/reverse section and disconnect old harness.

here is some additional info for everyone.

"There should be 2 white connectors on your old 1G harness, one is a 14 way the other is a 18 pin, those need to be deppined and transferred to the new harness, no need to strip or cut any wires, just swap the connector following the numbers on them going from left to right on the new harness.

1. Empty
2. Brown
3. Empty
4. Black/White
5. Blue/Red
6. Empty
7. Black
8. Red
9. Yellow/Black
10. Blue
11. Yellow
12. White
13. Green/ Red
14. Green



1. White (wiper)
2. Blue (wiper)
3. Empty
4. Empty
5. Tach signal
6. Empty
7. Empty
8. Empty
9. Empty
10. Red (wiper)
11. Blue/white (wiper)
12. Empty
13. Yellow (reverse switch connector)
14. Orange (reverse switch connector)
15. Orange (coolant gauge)
16. Empty
17. Empty
18. Empty



Fusebox combination connector, wipers, reverse and mass air flow are now going to be run though the passenger fender, rather than engine bay.

Small fusebox on top of battery will now be relocated inside, swap the small box from the old harness to the new inserting the new terminals and feed battery power to the box."
 
@OHM_Racer im guessing the “Tach Signal” would be the white wire? I got the rear switch delete and also the wiper delete. I am simply left with 2 wires for a 18 pin connector. A white wire and orange wire which would be for the coolant gauge. So my best guess would be the white for the tach signal? Or am I wrong?
 
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