Oh My God.. Possible issues? Flywheel?..

[XiKeiyaZI]

Soooo....I've been workin diligently with my car for a while and it's finally up and running. All that's left are a few odds and ends and a slave cyl...then a friend brought this point up to me.

" So, I was supposed to torque the flywheel?.. cause you don't have a torque wrench around here. "

Well.. -.-; Let me explain.

During the day I have multiple tasks. I have a very compitent friend who has helped me through this entire process of swapping from a 1.8 to a 2.0. I gave him a simple task - Mount the flywheel.

Using the bolts provided (6) he apparently applied thread lock, and using a breakover bar, applied a mass amount of force to each bolt. He said they wouldn't move any further.

Well, seeing as how the tranny was mounted when I was there, the flywheel was lined up perfect, snug, and looking nice. I never through to ask. It was AFTER we got the tranny mounted, the axels in, and the car started that he mentioned this.

So...Is it something worth worrying over seeing as how he " used the star pattern and applied a LOT of force " to each bolt using a short breakover bar? I'm not going to be racing this thing...at the moment. It's going to babied for quite a while.

I reeeaaaallllly don't want to drop the tranny again...then again I really don't want my flywheel flying through my hood.

~_~; Thanks.

 

[JackM]

If your flywheel bolts work their way loose the torsional whip of the crank will ruin the flywheel and end of the crank. Taking it back apart now is a lot easier than having to replace more parts later.

Jack

 

[DSM_PWR]

x2

Always ALWAYS torque the flywheel bolts with red loctite...

My friend made the mistake of using an impact to torque them down... came loose and broke a piece of the flywheel inside the crank

Do yourself a favor and do it right

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Point taken. D; Looks like I'll drop it again and get to work on it. Thanks.

By the way, are there any tutorials for dropping the tranny? Such as exactly how to go about removing the axels or any tips in making this action easier?

 

[TOONAH]

Well, strangely enough I have taken several dsm virgin (factory) clutch's apart and never found any evidence of thread lock on the flywheel bolts. The trouble with red Loctite is that when it reaches a certain temperature the compound hardens too much, making it impossible to remove them. That is why I use green Loctite, it nevers get really hard but does a better job for high temp apps
than red. The proper method of applying torque to a series of bolts in a symetrical pattern is to apply a pre-torque (in a symetrical cross pattern) of 10-15% of rated torque and to increment the remaining torque in three more steps.
135 ft lbs is what I put on my 7 bolt flywheel bolts. So my first pass was 15 ft lbs, then another three passes at 40 ft lbs.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Well, strangely enough I have taken several dsm virgin (factory) clutch's apart and never found any evidence of thread lock on the flywheel bolts. The trouble with red Loctite is that when it reaches a certain temperature the compound hardens too much, making it impossible to remove them. That is why I use green Loctite, it nevers get really hard but does a better job for high temp apps
than red. The proper method of applying torque to a series of bolts in a symetrical pattern is to apply a pre-torque (in a symetrical cross pattern) of 10-15% of rated torque and to increment the remaining torque in three more steps.
135 ft lbs is what I put on my 7 bolt flywheel bolts. So my first pass was 15 ft lbs, then another three passes at 40 ft lbs.

Valuable information! I appreciate it!

I'll do my best to excersize the precautions of correct torque when I get the damned tranny torn back off. I just really hate to go through the headache.

 

[TheMadCheshire]

Well, strangely enough I have taken several dsm virgin (factory) clutch's apart and never found any evidence of thread lock on the flywheel bolts. The trouble with red Loctite is that when it reaches a certain temperature the compound hardens too much, making it impossible to remove them. That is why I use green Loctite, it nevers get really hard but does a better job for high temp apps
than red. The proper method of applying torque to a series of bolts in a symetrical pattern is to apply a pre-torque (in a symetrical cross pattern) of 10-15% of rated torque and to increment the remaining torque in three more steps.
135 ft lbs is what I put on my 7 bolt flywheel bolts. So my first pass was 15 ft lbs, then another three passes at 40 ft lbs.

Would you happen to know the part number on that Green loctite? I've never seen a green loctite. I generally use the blue loctite, but this green sounds like it would be better.

 

[DSM_PWR]

135 ft lbs is what I put on my 7 bolt flywheel bolts. So my first pass was 15 ft lbs, then another three passes at 40 ft lbs.

135 ft lbs?? WTF

The required torque is 94-101 ft lbs

And i thought green loctite was more for permanet seals between bolts? As in stronger than red (which means alot harder to take out)

Ive never once had a problem taking out flywheel bolts with red loctite using an Impact gun, and ive done quite a few clutch jobs

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

135 ft lbs?? WTF

The required torque is 94-101 ft lbs

And i thought green loctite was more for permanet seals between bolts? As in stronger than red (which means alot harder to take out)

Ive never once had a problem taking out flywheel bolts with red loctite using an Impact gun, and ive done quite a few clutch jobs

Well... I happened to have blue laying there. o_o Would that be suitable?

Note : The friend stated that he weighs about 200 LBS.. and put roughly half of his body weight on each bolt using a breakover. And that was in combination with the blue loctite. That wouldn't be sufficient? =/

 

[DSM_PWR]

No blue is the weakest..

Good read:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/subcategory.asp?CatID=10&SubID=48

It just says green is for electronic

 

[snowborder714]

Note : The friend stated that he weighs about 200 LBS.. and put roughly half of his body weight on each bolt using a breakover. And that was in combination with the blue loctite. That wouldn't be sufficient? =/

And how do you estimate that you put half of your body weight into tightening down a bolt??

Use red threadlocker and a torque wrench.

 

[My1GLaser]

Well... I happened to have blue laying there. o_o Would that be suitable?

No.

I use 272 red loctite. It is high temp and for bolts with large diameter of 1.25" so I figure its about the best red to use for a FW. I just had to remove my flywheel after it being on there for 2 years and my impact didn't have any problem breaking the bolts lose.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Alllll right. I just got in a new set of flywheel bolts and whatnot. But let me update this.

xD Directly after I made this post, we started my car. It ran AWESOME for about 15 minutes.. then I heard a very faint 'shink' noise. We turned the car off, pushed it into the garage, and went in. A week later I dropped the tranny because there's no way he did it right, was what I kept telling myself.

3 of the 6 bolts had backed out half way and the flywheel was shifting juuuust barely. I instantly ripped everything off and set it aside, checked the surface of my crank to ensure it was flush with the ring around it and thanked God that nothing had flown apart. I then proceeded in beating my friend.

Anyway, now that I'm doing this without any setbacks, I'm a bit worried about installing this flywheel.

I suppose I'm afraid that the bolts will back out even when torqued and whatnot. Also, I'm a bit curious as to how to make sure the flywheel is seated flush with the crank as I don't tighten it down at some weird angle.

This is the weekend I drive this damned car for the first time and I intend to do it right!