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NOOOB, building a 1g... Need some HELP!

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Enforcer30

Probationary Member
11
0
Apr 7, 2009
D, Minnesota
Hey Guys and Gals,

I bought a 94 TSI AWD Manual, with about 150K on it for 1000.00 bucks. I think I got an alright deal, it was from a friend. Lots of parts replaced a while back and I know the car so it hasn't been beat to bad. NO rust which is nice. I need some help from you all, I would like to add some goodies but right now before Christmas, not go wild.

So here's the deal, it was running on 3 cylinders, looking at the mileage I assumed it was a valve, which is was. #3 cylinder had a burnt valve. So the head is off getting a new valve job!

I was looking at the Cylinder walls and they all look really nice and smooth no marks or anything. Should anything be done since I have the head off?

The Exhaust Manifold was full of cracks, should I replace with a stock or buy a modified one?

The area where the exhaust goes into the Turbo is cracked? So should I replace that or buy a bigger turbo? I have another stock one sitting here.

How about a blow off valve? Just leave the Factory one? Aftermarket?

It has 3" exhaust but the down pipe is stock from what I can see.. Should I replace that too? I don't want the car to be one of them LOUD annoying cars. It is not a crappy EBAY exhaust, I can't remember who makes it though, (Magna flow maybe)..

I have a Boost Gauge, Air/Fuel Mixture Gauge and Turbo Timer, I was thinking about adding a Oil Pressure gauge or something else? Boost Controller?


I don't really want to spend TONS of money on it right now because of the holidays coming up, but I want it to be a fast reliable driver. So I would like to get it back together ASAP.

Like I said I am VERY new to the Turbo engines. Give me some suggestions please!!
 
Go with a stock replacement turbo (cause you have one already), boost controller, oil pressure gauge if you'd like, aftermarket downpipe, leave the stock bov and let her roll like that till after the season.
 
You cant really do too much to the cylinder walls without dissassembling the engine. You could wipe them down if you want to.

You could buy another stock exhaust manifold or if you want to upgrade I would recommend the fp race manifold.

The turbo's all crack on the inside over time. As long as the cracks do go all he way through to the outside of the housing it should be ok.

Stock blow off valve is perfectly fine.

You could put a 3" downpipe on it if you want or just leave it alone. Its up to you. Wont hurt anything just costs a bit.

You could add a boost controller. Turn it up slowly and if you have stock injectors you will find fuel cut at 14psi or so.
 
Hey Guys and Gals,

Should anything be done since I have the head off?

The Exhaust Manifold was full of cracks, should I replace with a stock or buy a modified one?

The area where the exhaust goes into the Turbo is cracked? So should I replace that or buy a bigger turbo?

How about a blow off valve? Just leave the Factory one? Aftermarket?

It has 3" exhaust but the down pipe is stock from what I can see.. Should I replace that too?

I have a Boost Gauge, Air/Fuel Mixture Gauge and Turbo Timer, I was thinking about adding a Oil Pressure gauge or something else? Boost Controller?

Can't really do much with the head off, get yourself a new headgasket and make sure everything is clean and its not warped at all.

The stock 2g manifold is sufficient, get yourself a used replacement and port it.

Get rid of the t25 and go with a 14b or 16g. You will need an install kit for either. The t25 is not sufficient if you want to turn up your boost.

You will want something other than the stock 2g bov. It's horrible. 1g bov is a cheap easy upgrade.

Have a new downpipe fabricated or order one.

Get yourself a wideband o2 and boost controller then your good to go to turn your boost up a little. Next you will want to look into tuning devices or something to control fuel.
 
Can't really do much with the head off, get yourself a new headgasket and make sure everything is clean and its not warped at all.

The stock 2g manifold is sufficient, get yourself a used replacement and port it.

Get rid of the t25 and go with a 14b or 16g. You will need an install kit for either. The t25 is not sufficient if you want to turn up your boost.

You will want something other than the stock 2g bov. It's horrible. 1g bov is a cheap easy upgrade.

Have a new downpipe fabricated or order one.

Get yourself a wideband o2 and boost controller then your good to go to turn your boost up a little. Next you will want to look into tuning devices or something to control fuel.

He has a 94 tsi, so I dont think he has a t25 or 2g bov.
 
Can't really do much with the head off, get yourself a new headgasket and make sure everything is clean and its not warped at all.

The stock 2g manifold is sufficient, get yourself a used replacement and port it.

Get rid of the t25 and go with a 14b or 16g. You will need an install kit for either. The t25 is not sufficient if you want to turn up your boost.

You will want something other than the stock 2g bov. It's horrible. 1g bov is a cheap easy upgrade.

Have a new downpipe fabricated or order one.

Get yourself a wideband o2 and boost controller then your good to go to turn your boost up a little. Next you will want to look into tuning devices or something to control fuel.


My car is a 1g.... Isn't it?

1994 TSI AWD... I thought the 2g's started 1995?
 
My car is a 1g.... Isn't it?

1994 TSI AWD... I thought the 2g's started 1995?

Yes your car is a 1g. You are correct, 2g's started in 95.

Is an electronic boost controller with the money or just by a manual one?

Its up to you, but I would just go with a manual one. Cheaper and easier to install.
 
So Here is what I am thinking:

Replace the Stock Turbo

New Stock Exhaust manifold

Replace the downpipe with a 3" one.

Manual Boost Controller (cheap for now)

Add an Oil Pressure gauged to the open hole I have in the dash.

.............................................................................................

I think before the valve went bad the boost is set at 12psi... is 15psi safe?

I don't want to be rebuilding this thing all the time.. Like I said just want a reliable driver right now... Next summer I will probably go wild on it..

Thanks for the help sofar!!
 
So Here is what I am thinking:

Replace the Stock Turbo

New Stock Exhaust manifold

Replace the downpipe with a 3" one.

Manual Boost Controller (cheap for now)

Add an Oil Pressure gauged to the open hole I have in the dash.

.............................................................................................

I think before the valve went bad the boost is set at 12psi... is 15psi safe?

I don't want to be rebuilding this thing all the time.. Like I said just want a reliable driver right now... Next summer I will probably go wild on it..

Thanks for the help sofar!!


Go with the 2g manifold. You may run out of fuel at 15 psi. You may want to look into a wbo2 if your worried about turning up the boost. Your rods are good past 400hp. Oh, and do you maintenance.
 
Read up on boost creep and plan on porting your turbo if you upgrade to a 3" DP. If you are on stock ECU, MAS, & no chip then you will most likely hit fuel cut way more often.

As an FYI, fuel cut has nothing to do with your actual fuel supply. When airflow numbers reach a certain level, the ECU cuts fuel so you don't blow the motor. It assumes you have the stock fuel system and is a safety precaution for if your WG ever stopped functioning and you overboosted past what the stock fuel supply could handle. If you change your inj or pump to handle more boost, the ECU has no idea without a chip or DSMLink.

Unfortunately, fuel cut happens right as thing starts to get really fun and the car is pulling like a mother.

A cheap Joe P MBC is probably all you will ever need. I have friends running 35 psi with one and I run 28.

Go to the tech section and read thru the upgrade paths to make sure you don't miss a free mod along the way. http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=1gtupgrades
 
I don't plan on porting the turbo right now. Just adding the 3" downpipe.

I don't want to be hitting fuel cut all the time, I will have to look into that.

Would upgrading to 650cc injectors help, or does it have to have ECU chipped and so on?

So stock turbo and manifold, with 3" downpipe out the back.

I need to do some more research it sounds like!
 
Cheap Reliable Fast. Pick Two.

(might be preaching to the choir here, but it's good to go over the basics. ))

Good part is you are starting on the right track, and repairing. With 1gs you should see about replacing hoses while you have the upper part of the motor apart cause I've had several coolant lines come apart just driving normally. Hoses, wires, and belts have a tendency to come apart. Since you got the head off it would be a perfect time for a timing belt job. :) New plugs, wires, filters and all that. That way all the maintenance is caught up.

It's been said, but a 2g exhaust manifold is a easy upgrade,It doesn't crack like 1g heads, and they are pretty cheap. Use your turbo since it's right there. The motor can take 15, but on a stock turbo it will peter out near the upper end. If you get it, keep it down for a bit. ((It's better to play safe until you know you can afford to upgrade or repair)).

You might want to look into a data logger before too long. You can get one pretty cheap, and it can keep track of things. I think you might want to look into doing the fuel rewire upgrade and such as well.

All in all, Research, research, research.
 
I don't plan on porting the turbo right now. Just adding the 3" downpipe.

I don't want to be hitting fuel cut all the time, I will have to look into that.

Would upgrading to 650cc injectors help, or does it have to have ECU chipped and so on?

The free flowing 3" exhaust induces boost creep because it flows so well and the turbine spins faster and faster. The WG can't bypass enough exhaust because of the factory design of the turbine inlet and the path to the WG flapper. Porting is a necessity when running a 3" turbo back exhaust and low boost. You don't want to be creeping up to 20 psi on a stock fuel system.

You can get away with 650s without a chip. Just a logger and SAFC to tune. On a side note, I have a chip for 650s & SAFC for sale if you are interested and want to pm me.
 
Your list looks good except:

DO NOT REPLACE YOUR TURBO, a good 80-90% of 14b's hot sides are cracked, it happens, it doesn't adversely affect anything unless it cracks to the outside.

If you don't feel like taking that advice then fine, but if you're going to put money into a replacement turbo just get yourself an Evo3 16G, it will be a wise investment for the future.

For now

- Replace the exhaust manifold with a 2g unit, should be easy to find (browse your local craigslist).

- Port or buy aftermarket o2 housing (just a suggestion since you have it all apartn)

- Go with a 2.5-3" downpipe

- Stick an MBC on it and run 15 psi (assuming stock turbo)

- Run 13s :thumb:
 
So Here is what I am thinking:

Replace the Stock Turbo

New Stock Exhaust manifold

Replace the downpipe with a 3" one.

Manual Boost Controller (cheap for now)

Add an Oil Pressure gauged to the open hole I have in the dash.

.............................................................................................

I think before the valve went bad the boost is set at 12psi... is 15psi safe?

I don't want to be rebuilding this thing all the time.. Like I said just want a reliable driver right now... Next summer I will probably go wild on it..

Thanks for the help sofar!!

i would think about replacing the restrictive upper intercooler piping and throttle body elbow but keeping the stock bov. i found my UIP on ebay for like $50 ... a little sanding, primer, and paint ... good as new

I don't plan on porting the turbo right now. Just adding the 3" downpipe.

I don't want to be hitting fuel cut all the time, I will have to look into that.

Would upgrading to 650cc injectors help, or does it have to have ECU chipped and so on?

So stock turbo and manifold, with 3" downpipe out the back.

I need to do some more research it sounds like!

i almost forgot, replace ALL the timing components like the timing belt and balance shaft belt with new ones ... it would suck to get your car back up and running then break a t-belt or b-belt and screw up your head after getting it back on...
 
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