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Building my first 1G DSM, need some parts.

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jb300zx

10+ Year Contributor
33
1
Jan 30, 2011
Amarillo, Texas
Hello everyone. I'm building my first 6 bolt 4G63 for my newly acquired 1992 Eclipse. Alas! I have all my parts lined up and ready to go when I notice a crack by the front balance shaft journal in my block. Not sure how I missed it, but I did. (By the way, I have been building small and big block domestics for twenty years, so this oversight really bites) It's a shame because that's all that is wrong with the block. Consequently, I am looking for a bare block if anyone has one to spare. Also searching for a throttle body/IAC servo as mine has seen better days. I will need some other "toy" parts as well, but I wanna get this thing built first. Thanks everyone.
 
I appreciate the suggestions. I've looked around a bit, and I will continue to browse through these areas. Just thought I'd see what was out there privately. I'm a mechanic and machinist, so I prefer to do all my own work. I really do not want a .020 over bore, but most of the ones I've seen are bored. Thanks again, and I'm still looking through these areas. I'll find something that'll work.
 
I appreciate the suggestions. I've looked around a bit, and I will continue to browse through these areas. Just thought I'd see what was out there privately. I'm a mechanic and machinist, so I prefer to do all my own work. I really do not want a .020 over bore, but most of the ones I've seen are bored. Thanks again, and I'm still looking through these areas. I'll find something that'll work.


.020 is fine to build around. I have a blocking laying in the garage.
 
I find the junk yard to be the best place for a block. It costs alot to ship, so buying from a vendor is gonna cost more in shipping than to buy the block. If you can find a block in a yard that has been somewhat stripped, the yard will sell it for less. I wouldn't pay more than $150 for one. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is a good place to start looking online, or just visit a you-pull-it/picknpull.

I would pull an engine that has the head still attached, with spark plugs still in it, just to be sure it has stayed out of the weather.

I'm guessing you are going to take the stuff out of your current engine to put in the new one, so a turbo block will work(just don't use the low compression pistons) if you can't find an NT, but I would stick with a NA motor since they are not ran so hard and less likely to be warped or having cylinders messed up.
 
burkgonzo - True. .020 is no big deal. I am curious if that is the only over-bore size you can go with these. Simply a curiousity question there. Is your block bored? Does it need to be? Any machine work I will need to do, etc.?

I find the junk yard to be the best place for a block. It costs alot to ship, so buying from a vendor is gonna cost more in shipping than to buy the block. If you can find a block in a yard that has been somewhat stripped, the yard will sell it for less. I wouldn't pay more than $150 for one. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is a good place to start looking online, or just visit a you-pull-it/picknpull.

I would pull an engine that has the head still attached, with spark plugs still in it, just to be sure it has stayed out of the weather.

I'm guessing you are going to take the stuff out of your current engine to put in the new one, so a turbo block will work(just don't use the low compression pistons) if you can't find an NT, but I would stick with a NA motor since they are not ran so hard and less likely to be warped or having cylinders messed up.

So true. I have noticed the turbo engines are pretty well used up by the time they see the yard. I am planning a trip to our local yard here this weekend. Trying to have a plan B in place just in case they do not have anything useful. Indeed. I will be using all of my parts in the donor block. This build is going to be moderate, but I plan on making some more mods in the future after I get the feel of the DSM engines.

By the way, nice ride. Looks almost like mine. :)
 
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You do not have to do any special machine work for a .020 overbore.

I have a spare block. Its a 2.0 n/t so no oil squiters. If your going forged you dont need them. Pm me if you want it and I will see about a shipping qoute. And If IIRC it is .020 over. Or it needs to be bored.

Usually you can get pistons in .020, .040, and .060 over. Some brands may carry different sizes. But if you put enough miles on a block that you need to replace your pistons and punch it to cure out of round 3 times I think its about time for a new block anyways.
 
You do not have to do any special machine work for a .020 overbore.

I have a spare block. Its a 2.0 n/t so no oil squiters. If your going forged you dont need them. Pm me if you want it and I will see about a shipping qoute. And If IIRC it is .020 over. Or it needs to be bored.

Usually you can get pistons in .020, .040, and .060 over. Some brands may carry different sizes. But if you put enough miles on a block that you need to replace your pistons and punch it to cure out of round 3 times I think its about time for a new block anyways.

Gonna show my newbie here, but I am not familiar with the oil squirters. I'm gathering this is something I need to look into. This is gonna be a daily driver/occaisional toy. Suggestions?
By the way, it'll be a non-turbo. Gonna see how good I can make this engine sing n/a.

if you put enough miles on a block that you need to replace your pistons and punch it to cure out of round 3 times I think its about time for a new block anyways.

Agreed. Good information. Thanks.

Another thought just crossed my mind. I have a third gear synchronizer going out in my trans. What am I getting into when replacing the synchronizers in this transmission? What special tools will be required?
 
Wish that were the case here ... 3 pull a part locations and 15 junkyards and cant find a Turbo 4g63 within a 200 mile radius down here. All i need is a damn Oil Feed Line Banjo Bolt
 
Wish that were the case here ... 3 pull a part locations and 15 junkyards and cant find a Turbo 4g63 within a 200 mile radius down here. All i need is a damn Oil Feed Line Banjo Bolt

Is the through bolt all you need? I can check here this weekend for one. I might even know a place to get one new when I find out dimensions, thread, etc.

Local u-pull it always work well for me. Sorry to hear the bad news.


Thanks. Oh well. It happens. Just didn't want to find that on this paticular build. I bought this ride from a friend for a miniscule amount of money. I knew it was gonna have problems, but couldn't turn it down for the money. It leaves me room to play with it. In the end, I'm sure I'll do something crazy with it, but just wanna get it running good and do some interior/exterior work right now.
 
The oil squirters keep temps down on non forged pistons.

If your forged you dont need them. Otherwise... your taking your chances on a turbo build. If your going forged you don't need them anyways. And I would say you might make use of them if your gonna be running higher than 10.5:1 CR in a N/A build but as I really have no idea how hot the pistons get in a high comp build that is just an estimate.
 
Any details on your build? Are you building a high comp, high revving NA or....?

As of this exact moment, I'm not getting too crazy. Pretty close to stock. Gonna get a feel for this motor in it's slightly modified state. Cold air intake and exhaust upgrades are already done. Gonna raise the compression just a bit. Probably about 10:1. Head is three-angled on the valves and seats, port matched to intake and new 2G exhaust manifold. Plan on doing some better pistons and rods for when I do finally build the next stage motor(don't wanna buy everything in the bottom-end twice LOL.) Balance shaft elimination per the remove front shaft, support oil pump with machined down and balanced rear shaft. Better fuel pump. Like I said, starting slow and building from there.

What is a good, solid clutch for this 1992 Eclipse? I've found many names I'm familiar with, but wanna get the word from actual users.
 
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