Noob to link , Advice needed please

[blackhawkgsx]

Hey guys I'm new to link and need some help dialing in some things. Take a look at my idle log and let me know what you thing please .

 

[sprmotohooligan]

First off your RPM's are way up there, unless of course you are shooting for 1K idle; I'm assuming you do due to the cams.

So on that note I can't make an informed comment about your aiflow/rev value.

However, your ISCposition should be turned down a little bit, closer to a value of 30. You do that by turning the ISC screw out, very very slowly, and then rechecking the value on link. This screw can be found on the throttle body, it may be covered by a dust cap.

Your combined FT's are also a little high, you want them to hover around +/- 5%. I would suggest adding a little deadtime. But b/c you are on the monster BlueMax injectors your fuel trims probably won't stay on as flat of a line as the smaller closer to stock sized. So your trims are close, but could use a little work.

Get on the ecmlink forums!

 

[RavenX]

Its not too bad you just need to make some slight adjustments. As was already covered.

Isc - log iscposition and get it down to 30-32 or as far down as you can.

Fuel trims - Couldn't determine much since you didn't include a cruise log so your ltft mid didn't move. But I would richen it up 2% while keeping the same deadtime. That should move your ltft lo and stft down.

Maf - You need to move down more your 50hz maf range and that will get your airflowperrev down to .25 which is what is recommended.

 

[blackhawkgsx]

I have some cruise logs but every time i get to 2300-2500rpms it hits a brick wall and I get knock (3-4*) at first i thought it was fuel cut but my wideband goes crazy 10-13-12-11-15 etc... Thanks so far guys I will keep trying to get that isc to 30 and the ltft down then I will post another one !

 

[RavenX]

I have some cruise logs but every time i get to 2300-2500rpms it hits a brick wall and I get knock (3-4*) at first i thought it was fuel cut but my wideband goes crazy 10-13-12-11-15 etc... Thanks so far guys I will keep trying to get that isc to 30 and the ltft down then I will post another one !

Go in ecmlink and go to the knock settings. I noticed you never set those options. Set it to 2800 rpm's and 30% tps. Basically what your doing is telling the ecu to not monitor knock below 2800rpm's and below 30% throttle.

As always do the round of checking for boost leaks, checking knock sensor (torqued to spec), checking engine mounts. All the stuff that would basically trigger the knock sensor by a external factor.

 

[blackhawkgsx]

No boost leaks and I have Solid motor mounts , not sure if that would make any difference. I have included an idle log and cruise log . In the cruise log when i get to around 2400rpms it bucks so I let off . Also the BoostEST does not match my gauge and the wideband log does not match the actual gauge its WAY OFF . Take a look and tell me what you think , after reading some other thread I think my afpr is not working properly..

 

[RavenX]

I took a look at your logs. It seems that you returned to the deadtime/global that is recommended you are going to need to richen the global up to get the stft down. Try 70% with the same deadtime. Also I would advise to check your speedometer as its not registering any speed or throttle position. Check on the trans and make sure the plug is still hooked on. Otherwise its useless to get a cruise log if we can't determine what speed and rpm you are going at.

If the studder continues like you said check the fuel, check also the plugs, check to make sure you have base timing correct. As for the maf comp tables set them all back to zero and go at it again. Only touch the 50/100 range to get the airflow per rev at .25-.26. The other ranges are for when you are cruising. So I would basically follow these steps once you make sure nothing is wrong with the car mechanically.

Zero everything out again.

Start logging Airflowperrev, RPM, Timing, Maf Raw, Coolant Temp, Combined FT, LTFT Lo and Mid, STFT, Throttle Position, Speed

Go to maf tables and lower the airflow at 50hz till you get .25-.26 with a warmed up car. (180+ coolant temp) Smooth the other adjacent cells 0, and 100 and so on till you get back to the "zero" line.

Check fuel trims. You want to watch what STFT and LTFT-Lo do as those figures deal with idle fuel trims. Adjust global till you get within -+3%. Keep in mind its ok if you go richer than what is recommended. I have 950 injectors and I have to use a global of -48% instead of the -52.6% they recommend.

Once you got that good. Go cruising for a while to check what LTFT-Mid does. This is where you will change the deadtime. Depending on what the deadtime does you may also have to change the global as both correlate to one another. You will have to interpolate.

Hope this helps.

Edit: You also need to put the values I told you to for the knock sensor control as you haven't done it. Also go into the DTC's tab and uncheck the cylinder misfire tab, and the evap/egr/mdp.

Question are you using the 91 cas or the 95/96 one?

 

[blackhawkgsx]

1990 CAS... Thanks so much bro for the help and info I'm getting Frustrated I'll get back at it tomorrow

 

[RavenX]

1990 CAS... Thanks so much bro for the help and info I'm getting Frustrated I'll get back at it tomorrow

Well we now know why your car is studering. You need to tell ecmlink to use a non 95/96 cas sensor. Click on the MISC tab and then check where it says "Use non 95/96 style cam angle sensor". Click the box and save changes.

Make sure you set your plugs in the correct order also. 3-2-1-4

Edit: I would advise you to do some reading on basic things you need to know for ecmlink. Also check out the demo pages where they show you how to do initial startup, fuel trim tuning and a few other things.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos.php?osCsid=ap55in9sbm2au9j1o21tvcf5o1

 

[blackhawkgsx]

I have a COP set up and I swapped the blue and blue/black wires used from the original coil pack so would I still need to check that box although I did that manually?

I have gotten most of my knowledge from the demos on the link website and here but I still need to get logged on the link forums

 

[RavenX]

I have a COP set up and I swapped the blue and blue/black wires used from the original coil pack so would I still need to check that box although I did that manually?

I have gotten most of my knowledge from the demos on the link website and here but I still need to get logged on the link forums

You should be ok with the COP setup. However before you go checking that click the non 95/96 cas box and go for a drive and see if it changes anything. If it doesn't that means you have to check the wires on the cop setup. Any chance you got the stock wires to hook up? Easiest way to check.

 

[KeelesKustome]

thats some good info, I was under the impression you shouldn't ever touch your global fuel settings ever again.
It seems that what you stated is worth a shot to fix my problems as well.

 

[RavenX]

thats some good info, I was under the impression you shouldn't ever touch your global fuel settings ever again.
It seems that what you stated is worth a shot to fix my problems as well.

Yup no problem. It's common to see injectors not flowing the exact rating as advertised. Which is why when you do the initial fuel trim adjustments you have to make sure everything else in the car is in running order.

 

[daplatano91]

I have some cruise logs but every time i get to 2300-2500rpms it hits a brick wall and I get knock (3-4*) !

Same thing was happening to me. My problem turned out to be that anti-lag was turning on while I was driving. Not sure if its the same problem your having for the simple fact that my car would spike lean when this happened. But I turned off anti-lag and haven't had the problem since.

 

[blackhawkgsx]

I uncheck the Anti-lag and even raised the 2step in case it was engaging while at 2300-3000rpms . I took a look at my 90 cas and the wires are brittle and frayed so Im in the market for a 93-94 cas..