No vacuum after cam swap

[Yngvar]

My car ran fine before I put cams in it had 150 psi compression a cross the board. Then I put some delta 272 regrinds in it using the shims that came along with them. Also I put in new revised 3g lifters. I bled the lifters off before putting them in. When I started the car up it was pulling vacuum but as the lifters were filling up with oil, the boost gauge slowly moved to 0 and the car runs like crap. I compression tested it after that and it was down to 120 across the board.
So I don't know what I should do now, I'm kinda thinking of take the shims out and seeing if that will make a differences. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated

 

[Yngvar]

Anyone have any idea

 

[SleepingTsi94]

There has to be some vac. or the car is not running. You should expect to loose some vac with a cam swap. I dropped to only 12-13 at idle with BC272 swap.

 

[Yngvar]

yea put the gauge shouldn't shit right at zero all most and try and died all the time the car use to run really good and strong

 

[jlr2196]

I'm running the Delta 272's as well, idle vacuum is rock solid at -13 with 155-165 compression across all 4 cylinders. So either the shims are holding the valves open slightly or when you installed the cams you didn't get them timed in properly and the valves smacked the pistons.
The reason for the shims is when regrinding cams, you have to bring down the base circle of the cam, thus making it overall shorter than a stock cam, but with a different lobe shape and all.
Since we use hyraulic lifters, they take up the slack, but putting a shim underneath raises them up so it makes up for the material lost in bringing the cam's base circle down.

 

[El Cuervo]

First things to do after swapping cams and such is: Check for boost leaks and vacume leaks. Try to fix even the smallest one. Then check your timing ignition. It must be at 5* advance timing. If not, then adjust it via the CAS by grounding the pin inside the timing adjustment connector with a timing light.
After you are done, adjust your idle by gounding the pin #10 on the diagnostic connector inside the car and grounding again the timing adjustment connector. Make sure your car is fully warm up and that no accesories are on and no load on the power steering. Then adjust your idle via the BISS.
You should expect lower vacume with bigger cams. People report form 9 to 15in/hg vacume. Maybe more, maybe less.