No spark, replaced everything! PLS HELP

[darkiller_666]

96 eclipse GS
I have replaced: Crank sensor, cam sensor, ECU, coil and relays and fuses all are good. After the ecu switch i am getting fuel now, but still no spark. I am completely lost. Please help

 

[talonesi95t]

Bad spark plug wires would also cause no spark. did you switch them? i know its a simple thing but ive always overlooked wires when trouble shooting a no spark situation.

 

[98dsmkid]

check ## grounds also

 

[Slo2gen]

You need to stop throwing parts at it and test some things, you very well could have a break in the wiring harness. But without test results its just a shot in the dark.

 

[90gst_sean]

Throwing parts at a car when it breaks is natural, and in an old car, not such a horrible idea; however, at this point Slow2gen is right, you need to test some stuff. As I read you post I was waiting for someone to say that the battery was good. You do have good voltage from the battery right? It can be misleading when an old battery goes bad.

 

[darkiller_666]

Car has a good battery, there is no power going to the COIL. When i probe the black/red wire with the key ON position there is no power. The cam sensor has 9v on one wire and 5v on the other. I have checked and redid/added several grounds for precaution. Where i am at now: I ahve now replaced both the realys on the top of firewall. Replaced the engine fuse just in case. I probed from the back of the ecu harness the Wire Black/blue, which is "coil 1" and the black/blue from the coil plug and there is no continuity. Is there supposed to be? Does this wire run thrue a fuse or relay? I am thinking of maybe trying to cut the Blue/black right behind the harness and running a seperate wire straight to the back of the coil? I am not sure if this would work. I am going to check all the wires that are related tot he coil today for continuity from harness to where they lead. This is crazy. Everytime i put sommething new in im like, this has to work now! Nope.

 

[90gst_sean]

Make sure you don't have the wires wrong over by the coil pack, I've heard of people plugging wire from the ignition system into the AC somehow.

If you haven't already, check for spark at all four spark plugs. i.e. pull the plug wires, one by one inserting a fresh spark plug into the wire end, rest the spark plug end on the exhaust manifold (or other ground if hot!) and turn the car over watching for strong spark to ground from the plugs electrode. If you only get spark from 2 of the 4 plugs/wires it is likely the CAS.

Also, check the fusible links near the batt. (20A), they can blow when moving wires around.
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I wish I had more experience with automotive electrical issues such as yours. However, it sounds like you're a smart enough guy, and so I'm sure you'll get it figured out soon enough....

Often, the solutions to our malfunctions are rather easy, and are simply over looked. This is why taking a break from the repair process is often extremely beneficial.

I would suggest researching threads - here and online - that match your situation, continue to swap known-good parts when ever possible in a process-of-elimination, and remember that modern cars are designed to fail and have the failed component replaced as a whole (like the ignition coil); so cutting wires, in my opinion, may not be the best approach. I'll keep this thread inmind if I come across any helpful information for you.

Good luck, and don't forget to update your thread once you inevitably find the solution to your troubles.

 

[primestick]

check your timing. They wont fire if the timing is off.

 

[Locke]

When you backprobe the B+ wire at the coil, remember that it will only be hot for 5-10 seconds after you turn the key on. If the engine is not running in that time, it will stop power. If there is no power here even immediately after turning the key to on, then start picking other points of that circuit for power.

Check for that wire being energized (again, immediately after key on) at the ASD relay. I believe it will be the wire nearest the front of the vehicle in the connector - it will be the same colour (Black w/red stripe). If there is no power here, check the other side of the relay; it should be constantly hot. If it is not, continue to trace that circuit back to the battery, checking at various points. If that wire is hot, check for switching power across the other side of the relay at the connector. &c... continue from there the same way until you discover the issue.

And I believe I mentioned in the other thread (you only need one thread for one problem, BTW) how to check the connection. If you are unable or unwilling to check the connection that way, be happy with cleaning or replacing it.

 

[darkiller_666]

I made the other post to try and see how to jumper the coil to see if it was sparking. I appreciate your help though. I did clean the connector and will try to chae it down tomarrow!

If you haven't already, check for spark at all four spark plugs. i.e. pull the plug wires, one by one inserting a fresh spark plug into the wire end, rest the spark plug end on the exhaust manifold (or other ground if hot!) and turn the car over watching for strong spark to ground from the plugs electrode. If you only get spark from 2 of the 4 plugs/wires it is likely the CAS.

I have tried this and it how i know im getting no spark from any plug!

remember that modern cars are designed to fail and have the failed component replaced as a whole (like the ignition coil); so cutting wires, in my opinion, may not be the best approach. I'll keep this thread inmind if I come across any helpful information for you.

Good luck, and don't forget to update your thread once you inevitably find the solution to your troubles.

I also agree with not cutting wires. Seeming how all the major auto part chains sell the CPS CAS and MAP sensor with the wrong plug, but just happen to have a 30$ harness to work with it, i cant avoid cutting wires