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no place left to go.. need help.. V8 Starion

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Jesus what's with all the double posting about V8s in a newbie forum for 4g63s?

My bad? anything constructive to add, my friend? just looking to go fast, and looking for constructive comments on the issue at hand..

and if you read the 1st post, you would know why i am posting here..
thanks :)

Seriously many elephant ears would work with just modifications, as it is pretty straight forward simple design. I also would NOT use the Starion rear axle as I am sure with any kind of HP/Torque it won't last long.

If memory serves me the old 55-57 Chevies had front block mount tabs from factory and aftermarket straddle mount strap that dipped under the damper.


THAAANNKKK YOU!!! you are the man.. i just want this thing to book..

Any idea how I would get the iroc rear end in? hahaha
 
My bad? anything constructive to add, my friend? just looking to go fast, and looking for constructive comments on the issue at hand..

and if you read the 1st post, you would know why i am posting here..
thanks :)




THAAANNKKK YOU!!! you are the man.. i just want this thing to book..

Any idea how I would get the iroc rear end in? hahaha

Constructive? Sure. Drop in an LS motor and call it a day. I know why you're posting here. I read everything. What I want to know is why you're posting in here. :rolleyes:
 
My bad? anything constructive to add, my friend? just looking to go fast, and looking for constructive comments on the issue at hand..

and if you read the 1st post, you would know why i am posting here..
thanks :)

THAAANNKKK YOU!!! you are the man.. i just want this thing to book..

Any idea how I would get the iroc rear end in? hahaha

I have an idea. Less posting, more cutting, welding, and drilling. Pictures too.

There was a kid putting a 350 into his datsun truck in my welding class. He was welding the mounts in school with a stick welder. They were ugly as sin, but they never came loose. Find engine mounts in junkyard, cut them, use load leveler and level to put it where you want it, tack it, take it out, blast it, and bolt it in. Repeat as needed for transmission and rear axle.

Engine mounts don't have to deal with a tremendous amount of load in comparison to their size and construction. You can't really F* them up.
 
Constructive? Sure. Drop in an LS motor and call it a day. I know why you're posting here. I read everything. What I want to know is why you're posting in here. :rolleyes:

That was more confusing than triple stamping a double stamp. I think hes asking here because there are some conquest/starion guys being as they run a 4g63 in them factory. And this is a car enthusiast site so maybe he was looking for help on going fast I could be wrong though. :aha:
 
Yeah, i've definitely heard of people swapping in SBCs into conquests. I'm not too sure where you're going to find mounts for this. You will most likely have to fab something up. Is the Iroc rear the 7.5" 10bolt because they aren't known for their strength. Does it have better axles or any other improvements? Definitely probably more capable than the stock conquest rear though.
 
My bad? anything constructive to add, my friend? just looking to go fast, and looking for constructive comments on the issue at hand..

and if you read the 1st post, you would know why i am posting here..
thanks :)




THAAANNKKK YOU!!! you are the man.. i just want this thing to book..

Any idea how I would get the iroc rear end in? hahaha

I would not use the IROC rear end either. Check you width from spring pad to spring pad and if anything use an 8.8 Mustang rear axle OR if you can find one an 8-3/4 Mopar from a Dart Duster. If money isn't an object use a Ford 9" and have it narrowed. Leaf springs that work and actually hook up are Mopar Super Stock A Body springs last 3 digits of part # is 002 & 003. If you need I can measure the length of the SS springs they are pretty cheap even new from MoPar. Oh yeah when installing the rear axle MAKE SURE YOU SET THE PINION ANGLE CORRECTLY when welding on the mounting pads!

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Sweet!! Thanks.. I post on other starion forums, but they are usually dead.. There are only a few sites that are as active as this one.. THAT is why im posting here.. Its a good site, with people who know their shi+.. :)

I have an idea. Less posting, more cutting, welding, and drilling. Pictures too.

But yeah.. like I said, as soon as it gets cooler here, im going to start on it.. There will be LOTS of pics.. LOL.. I just like to research as much as I can before just jumping in.. :thumb:

Oh yeah when installing the rear axle MAKE SURE YOU SET THE PINION ANGLE CORRECTLY when welding on the mounting pads!

How do I go about measuring that?
 
How do I go about measuring that?

google "setting rear axle pinion angle" and I am sure you will get very detailed information & pictures. As they say a pictures is worth a 1000 words. Rather than me trying to tell you in a post.

You will also get info on how to correctly shorten a driveshaft( the desired length so the front yoke slips as designed, rather than bind or fall out ).

You will also need to get a brake fluid line MANUAL ADJUSTABLE proportioning valve, so you can balance the brake pressure between the front & rear brakes. As you will have to use the brakes that come with the rear axle you use. That way you can adjust them so they stop the car in a manner that does not lock up the front or rear brakes when hitting the pedal.

ADDITIONALLY when you mount the engine MAKE sure when fabbing it up that the motor sets so that the intake manifold where the carb bolts to it is LEVEL if using a carb, so that the float levels will be correct when setting up carbs, If Fuel injection is being used being level is not as important.

There are enough different SBC OEM exhaust manifolds so that you should be able to fab an exhaust up...headers would be questionable.

I would also think you will need a custom spring shop to make you a set of heavy front coil springs, because when you dump that SBC in it the nose will probably be setting on the ground. Being very nose heavy I would not count on it handling very well other than going straight.

You have your work cut out for you, especially if you have never done this kind of project before.;)
 
well, I have done conversions, but never a 4cyl-v8... I was thinking, maybe a mighty max rear end would be more suited for this, as it has the same motor, and may even the same frame.. its got almost identical width.. although, i know the mighty max rear end is a solid rear end, unlike mine on the Starion..

Thanks alot for the reply... all the info I get would be best..
 
dont use a t-5 tranny for a 350, especially a built one. if i remember correctly gm used a 350 lt1 in trans ams and camaro's but not mated to a manual tranny they only used the 700r4, the t-5 mated to the 305 HO. corvettes used the t-56 mated to the lt1 t-5 wasnt built to handle lt1 powa! in 93 up they switched all lt1 and either t56 or auto ( hint hint)

ive seen t-5's mated to 350's and many other people have also but hell, your already in deep, minus well do it right.

if you really making 400hp i'd go t56 just my 2 cents
 
so you are saying go with a t56? what did those tranny's come out of? i can get one this weekend...

But anyone hear of swapping the mighty max rear end?
 
t56 is the tranny that was mated to the 1993 and up fire bird trans am, camaro z28 6 speed cars


t-5 = 5 speed t56= 6 speed. ohh yeah why dont you use the 328 posi rear end from the 1993 up z28 as well. its easy to find gears for those rear ends if need be. but they the the camaro 0 to 60 in the low 5's with 270 hp.
 
oh.. ok.. Yo comprendo.. :)

We will grab one of those then..

We are just looking for the easiest rear end to get up there.. of course, thats probably not going to happen.. haha.. I just need to get under there and start measuring everything to see what will fit
 
awesome project man, putting the heart of a third gen camaro into a starion. I used to have a V6 camaro and I'm pretty familiar with the third gen F-body. the Z28 rear end will be VERY challenging to put in because it's a solid, torque arm rear end. I would highly recommend an adjustable panhard bar. Spohn Performance :: 1982 - 1992 GM F-Body >> Suspension >> Panhard Bars >> Panhard Bar - Tubular Adjustable with Poly Bushings the next thing is that the spring pads are in a strange position on the axle. that's going to probably be your next hurdle. Mounting the shocks will probably be the easiest part.
my opinion on the T5 is that although it's rated for about 300 hp it should hold up pretty well for a while. it should be good for a while. T56 is awesome though. LT1 camaro 93-95 would be the most likely place to find one.
 
Dude, you can stick with the Conquest rear, its stout. You should be good to go for 400+ hp before you start breaking stuff back there.

Depending on the model, Mighty Max's and D50's came with 3.90 rears. You can also get a set of 4.22's out of a Montero I think.

...and I can't say enough, go post or lurk over at starquestclub, there are a bunch of guys with V8 swaps that can point you in the right direction. Last time I posted here, the site was down for a re-format, it's back up now and you should have no problems. They get quite a bit of traffic over there as well, so don't worry about not getting an answer.
 
Dude, you can stick with the Conquest rear, its stout. You should be good to go for 400+ hp before you start breaking stuff back there.

Depending on the model, Mighty Max's and D50's came with 3.90 rears. You can also get a set of 4.22's out of a Montero I think.

...and I can't say enough, go post or lurk over at starquestclub, there are a bunch of guys with V8 swaps that can point you in the right direction. Last time I posted here, the site was down for a re-format, it's back up now and you should have no problems. They get quite a bit of traffic over there as well, so don't worry about not getting an answer.

if that rear end can hold the power it should definitely get used.:rocks: That would make the swap a lot easier. just curious, what kind of rear end suspension is the starion? 4 link?
 
I'm not sure what the nomenclature is, but its an independent setup with lower control arms and a strut with a coil spring. The pumpkin is suspended between the axles on a crossmember and mounted with two rubber bushing'd mounts.

If you search hard enough and ask the right people you can find poly rear end mounts and torque tube mounts as well to replace the most likely shot rubber ones.
 
ok, so its independant and very similar to my AWD talon. the solid rear end would be better for drag racing (more consistant) but independant can perform well too.
 
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