No more negitve camber!!

[turbo90gsx]

Yehyyy!!! I finily fixed it. Inguals adjustable upper control arms from MachV. Highly recomended for you 1st gen AWD guys who have lowered their cars and have bad camber as a resualt. Went on real easy, and are very very easy to adjust for a track day. The first pic is before, the others are after.

 

[herostar]

Looks good

How much were they? Do they have them for 2g's?

 

[turbo90gsx]

Looks good

How much were they? Do they have them for 2g's?

They were 205 shipped, they have something for the 2nd gens
http://www.machv.com/rearcamad.html

 

[Toshiro]

On the Mach V site you linked, it says your car will handle better with less negative camber. What gives? I don't think that's true.

 

[turbo90gsx]

On the Mach V site you linked, it says your car will handle better with less negative camber. What gives? I don't think that's true.

"More good stuff from Ingalls. These rear eccentric bolts help you fix the camber woes brought on by lower springs. Get these and the front ones, and you can banish your weird tire-wear problems forever. Not to mention your car will handle a lot better."

Well, you car handels better with more negative camber, but when streeting a car mywith as much negative camber that my car had, it wears the tires in really uneaven patterns. So with my new street tires, I didn't want them to get all screwy at 3000 miles. But I also noticed that the "ride" qualitiy or mabey "handling" abillity definatly increased. There was alot less random shaking, and I still have yet to have them professionaly alligned.

 

[UCSLugRacerX]

On the Mach V site you linked, it says your car will handle better with less negative camber. What gives? I don't think that's true.

This depends on how much negative camber you have after the camber correction kits have been installed. Zero static (meaning not moving), camber on front and rear is good, especially on an AWD GSX. When accelerating in a straight line, also having Zero camber is good, especially on the rear tires, because you will have a flat contact patch. If you have negative, or positive camber on the front or rear during straight-line acceleration, it will result in a reduced contact patch. (Although considering the weight transfers to the rear during acceleration, and our 1G AWD’s rear wheels has automatic toe-in while cambering negatively, a completely flat contact patch will not occur—unless an extremely stiff spring/shock assembly is used, and there is next to zero suspension travel.)

At the same time, during a heavy turn with a lowered 1G with camber correction kits, the car will have reduced negative camber, and depending on the situation, has a likelihood of riding on the outside corners of the outside tires. The negative camber gain will be reduced on a lowered car, and further reduced with a lowered car with camber kits, because of the shortened suspension travel from lowering.

Think of it this way:
A lot of static and dynamic negative camber will result in more cornering power, especially on the front wheels, but will suffer in braking and accelerating.
Zero static and dynamic negative camber will result in better straight-line acceleration and braking, due to the flatter contact patch, but will suffer in cornering power.

Also, the cornering power will depend on whether it’s the front OR rear wheels, which will have more negative camber gain. If you have more negative camber on the front, the car will oversteer. If there is more camber on the rear, the car will understeer. (This is generalizing, but is using a hypothetical car with all 4 tires the same brand/size, and a 50/50 AWD power split, and 50/50 weight distribution.)

(Now let’s see if Jtmcinder will correct my work here.)

 

[turbo90gsx]

What ^he^ said.