No LTFT and other questions.

[Omega]

How long does it take for the LTFT's to be "recognized" within the computer? What are the odds of the ECU not changing them?

Also with my setup (SBR-G50, 650's and so on) I have to set the AFC to +20 on the lower RPM's in order to get the damn car to idle and run right. I have never had that before. Does that sound normal?

 

[1fast97gsx]

no that doesn't sound normal .... my ltft usually adjusted within a mile or 2 pretty close to where it would stay.

 

[1LE]

Mine take about 10 minutes at steady rpms to change.

 

[Omega]

I hooked my WB up last night to see what is going on. My readings don't seem to be too bad (didn't dare to do any WOT runs).

I have the low setting set VERY rich (+30) in the 1 - 2K RPM range in order to run the car and actually drive it.

I don't understand why with 650 injectors I have to INCREASE the amount of fuel to get it to run semi decently!

My friggin Palm is damn near useless. The touch screen is near dead so viewing/logging is difficult (a new-er one is on its' way)

 

[Mike 99GSX]

Those low settings make no sense. Are you using some sort of Eprom chip for the lift to shift? If so, I'm wondering if something is wrong/defective which could explain the goofy AFC settings.

 

[Omega]

Your telling me that they don't make sense!!


Nope, no chip or aftermarket ECU.

I use an AFC to tune and have my MAFT set for no correction.

 

[Mike 99GSX]

Your telling me that they don't make sense!!


Nope, no chip or aftermarket ECU.

I use an AFC to tune and have my MAFT set for no correction.

My fault man. I misread your post and thought you said No lift to shift as opposed to Long Term Fuel Trim

Did you just install this stuff or was there are a period of time where negative AFC corrections were working and now they aren't?

 

[Omega]

No problem

Iinstalled the G50 and left the 550's in.. ran fine. Installed the fuel filter and line.. .ran fine, but occasionally gave me shit. The filter install gave me a really annoying rattle so i was tearing things apart every day trying to find it. Put the 650's in ran better, but still occasionally gave me shit. .. then out of the blue all hell breaks loose (and the friggin' rattle is STILL there).

at one point I wiggled the MAF wire and it worked fine (with the proper AFC settings) the next day it was back to the BS. That day i discovered the crazy setting fix and I am stumped.

Perhaps it is the MAF? I found this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=7931643889&category=38634&sspagename=WDVW

but the connector is not in the same place mine is. I might switch to a 3" MAF, the 3.5 are a bi*** to find... and I bought my current one new!

 

[Omega]

I called the dealer yesterday. As one might expect, they had never heard of the issue.

I did find out that the STFT have to be of by about 12 or 14.5 in order to make a a change to the LTFT. That seemed a little high to me.. can anyone confirm or deny this?

Can anyone tell me when the MAP sensor comes into play? When I put the settings to where they "should" be, I eventually get a MAP error.

 

[1LE]

MAP sensor is only used to test the EGR system on 2g's. If your settings are way out of whack, it won't test the EGR, and hence you'll never get a MIL for it... The MAP sensor (technically it's an MDP sensor) is very finicky. They seem to go bad at the drop of a hat, and even good ones don't play well with others (absolutely MUST be in the stock location or (if you don't have the stock location anymore) located on the shortest possible vacuum hose with NOTHING else on the line)

 

[Omega]

For only being needed to test the EGR, they are not cheap!

Tomrrow I am going to do the following: Install the new MAP, rotate the MAF 'round so that the divider is vertical, and I also picked up a 97 GSX ECU. I hope on of those 3 things fix the problem.


Do I have to make any wiring changes for the ECU to work?

 

[Omega]

I rotated the MAF around.. no change. I swapped in a different ECU... no change. It seems like the LTFT have just stopped working.

The car does something new now. If I run anything more than 15 PSI, the car runs pig rich and bucks/fall on its' face.

I have made some adjustmenst using the MAFT so that the STFT's are good under part throttle. I use the same correction (+30% full) on WOT so that could be why it hates WOT. Even now it seems that every so often the car runs lean for no reason under part throttle.

I can't remember how the O2 sensor log should look at idle. mine seems to do this:
__/`\_/`\_....
It basicly goes from zero up to around .88, stays around there for a bit then drops back down. Is that normal?

 

[44pirate]

Try not useing the lo settings on the SAFC, zero them out, only use the MAFT base and idle mid knobs for drivability. What logger are you using?
Only use the HI settings for WOT.
Every time you make adjustment to the MAF reset your ECU and watch your STFT at idle, then make adjustment to Idle knob to get to 0 STFT.

 

[gixrman]

Have you thought about your o2 being bad? Your ST's should be cycling up and down looking for "stouch" or the the correct A/F ratio. Do you have a wideband o2? I have the same setup as you and when I set everything up I couldn't get it tunned right.
When you make changes to your fuel system the stock ECU has a hard time selecting the right fuel maps with the infomation its getting. The narrowband o2 does'nt have the capability of adjusting that much.
Watch the 3 videos on www.innovatemotorsports.com

 

[Omega]

I'll go back and change the MAFT settings as suggested. I can gaurantee that the idle adjustment will have to be super rich for it to idle... but I will post the results.

I use the OBDII from pocketlogger.

I have thought about the O2 sensor being bad, but there is no code to justify the $130. The STFT do move around, but they never seem to impact the LT. Could this be my problem?!

I actually have the LM-1, which I now have setup with a AFR gauge (finally put that piece of crap to use). I actully haven't looked at the STFT in a week or so.. I have just been paying attention to the WB.

I don't know if this makes a difference, but I don't have any of the additional wires connected on the MAFT. All I did was plug it in. I assume that the base correction will be fine, but will the idle correction work normally?

 

[gixrman]

I have thought about the O2 sensor being bad, but there is no code to justify the $130. The STFT do move around, but they never seem to impact the LT. Could this be my problem?!
the bank #1 o2 readings are the important ones they should be adjusting alongt with your STFT's.

I actually have the LM-1, which I now have setup with a AFR gauge (finally put that piece of crap to use). I actully haven't looked at the STFT in a week or so.. I have just been paying attention to the WB.
as you should, why do you think its a piece of crap? I could get my car tuned correctly without it.

I don't know if this makes a difference, but I don't have any of the additional wires connected on the MAFT. All I did was plug it in. I assume that the base correction will be fine, but will the idle correction work normally?

Did you hook up the RPM wire?