2G No crank after boost leak test

[dontblowup]

Car wont crank when turning key. I hear a crackling sound around the intake manifold when I turn my key one click after turning key all the way to start the car all I hear is a humming noise the whole time the key is turned which I'm assuming is just the fuel pump.

1997 gst with a 96 engine

A little back story
Car is basically stock besides some bolt on stuff.
I decided to do a boost leak test and found multiple leaks from my bov, injectors, throttle body and some couplers.
I got my injectors cleaned professionally and had all seals and rings replaced
I replaced the BOV with a greddy one with hard pipping
throttle body gaskets are on the way so those have yet to be replaced
took off stock intercooler and cleaned it
Clutch was sticking to floor and my reserve went dry so I bleed clutch and topped off fluid
I also disconnected clutch safety switch
battery is fully charged

The car ran and started no problem before replacing the parts listed and now nothing.
Maybe I disconnected a connector or a ground somewhere when I was messing with the IC pipping and the fuse box? I've check all connectors and grounds and all seem fine.

I'm hoping maybe someone could possibly shed some light at what could be the issue before I start taking everything apart again to see what could be the issue.

Thanks

 

[pauleyman]

Maybe you thought you did clutch switch but got the wrong one. Push the pedal in.

 

[dontblowup]

So I did the clutch switch disable after trying to start the car a bunch. I was thinking maybe when I bleed the clutch something got out of whack with the switch so I know it's not that.

 

[BVELT-97TSI]

The crackling sound under the intake manifold could be your starter motor trying to turn over but doesn't have enough juice to fully turn. Kinda like when you have a dead battery and it just clicks.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Yup those click noise a 2g is always a weak battery from my experience.

 

[dontblowup]

battery is fully charged and tested so it can't be the battery

 

[pauleyman]

battery is fully charged and tested so it can't be the battery

If it was fine very recently it almost had to be something you did. There are several large grounds at the battery. Did you disconnect these?

 

[dontblowup]

No grounds disconnected at all, i guess I'll start taking everything back off and have a look around the bay to see if something is wrong. I might as well get a new starter and see if that's the problem

 

[pauleyman]

Did you actually test the battery or just charge it?

 

[BVELT-97TSI]

Have you confirmed the click noise is coming from the starter motor? Seems like a bad battery, loose wire or a bad start solenoid.

 

[dontblowup]

Turned out to be the starter connector was loose and it fired right up after fixing that.

Now after changing the throttle body gaskets and cleaning out the throttle body my idle stays around 1500 to 2000. If I pull back on the throttle cable to close the plate more I can hear the RPMs drop.

Do I just need to adjust the little screw and 8mm nut?

Thanks you for the help

 

[pauleyman]

Turned out to be the started connector was loose and it fired right up after fixing that.
Now after changing the throttle body gaskets and cleaning out the throttle body my idle stays around 1500 to 2000. If I pull back on the throttle cable to close the plate more I can hear the rpms drop.
Do I just need to adjust the little screw and 8mm nut?

Thanks you for the help

No. Do not adjust the throttle stop. See if the cable is completely taut when it is "closed". It shouldn't be. The adjustment is where the cable bolts to the intake manifold. You can see the the bracket is slotted. If you pull the cable off the throttle body all together you can make sure the throttle is closing or not as the cable is no longer an influence.

 

[dontblowup]

The cable is not taut when closed it has some slack.

I drove the car for about 25 minutes last night, let it cool off, drove it again to operating temp and the RPMs now hover around 1200-1300 with random a surge for a second or two.

Not sure if I screwed something up when cleaning the throttle body.

 

[pauleyman]

The cable is not taut when closed it has some slack. I drove the car for about 25 minutes last night, let it cool off, drove it again to operating temp and the rpms now hover around 1200-1300 with random a surge for a second or two.
Not sure if I screwed something up when cleaning the throttle body.

If the cable isn't taut verify it closes by physically pushing it. It will be very obvious if it shut against the stop or not. If it feels gummy or stiff opening or closing something is wrong. The car doesn't even have to be running to check this. You can run it all the way to 100% and back as many times as you would like.

 

[dontblowup]

Yeah it's shutting and it operates smooth unless I'm not seeing something.
I was just making a note that after driving the car around the idle dropped from 2k to 1.3k which was odd.

 

[pauleyman]

It's not possible for the car to idle above 1500 unless something is wrong. If the throttle completely closes and it's idling above 1500 you have a problem with the throttle closed circuit. 2g integrates that with the TPS.

 

[dontblowup]

I see what you're saying. So now the car is idling at 800-900 so its back to normal i guess and I didn't do anything . That's why I mentioned how it dropped the other day just driving it, maybe it wasn't used to having no boost leaks and a clean TB idk