Newbie Question.. How to launch fwd auto

[britdog]

Okay so i have a newbie question. I have a 2g 97 spyder gst. Its an automatic fwd and i am wanting to know how to launch it good. I have hear of 2 step and dsmlink but what should i go with to get a good launch on the car but not spending a crap ton on programs. Thanks

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Firstly, - Ebrake up. Foot on fuel to raise the RPM's where you want them, preload the driveline, ease off of the ebrake a hair at a time, once the car starts wanting to edge forward then drop the ebrake and floor the throttle. This is how I've done it, personally, with good results. Some others prefer the actual brake over the ebrake.

 

[spydergstftw]

i use the actual brake and it works fine with me.

 

[britdog]

yeah i tried the e brake and i broke something and know it doesnt work. ive been using the normal brake but i dont want to mess up my torque converter

 

[spoolingreen20]

I used 2 stage boost on a turbo dodge that I used to own. Worked really well. I recommend it. I would get a trans temp gauge if you are going to be power braking to launch. I used one on my last AWD auto and it really keeps you in check from power braking too much.

The cost of two stage boost is cheap too. All you need is 2 grainger valves, a vacuum solenoid, and a switch. Your looking at maybe $20-$30.

 

[Black-Out]

To do it right, look no further than to your muscle car driving bretheren for the correct technique.
The key is to get the car up against the stall just enough that when you come off the brake (the actual brake not the parking brake), you have just enough boost to get you into and keep you in the power band.....a trans cooler and a trans fluid temp gauge will definitely be an asset to you as stated before so that you can keep track of things and give them a chance to cool down between launches.
Also need to find out what stall speed the factory converter is as the manufacturer's tend to make them fairly low stall speeds which means you'll have to stay on the gas a little harder and longer before you release the brake and begain the run. Get it right and you'll be rewarded with a fair amount of wheel spin and a constant pressure on your back side from the seat....get it wrong and it can bog or even spin wildly just like an fwd 5 speed clutch drop.......
Just remember practice makes perfect......
William-

 

[69_luv]

Let me start off with this is NOT recommended until you have proper modifications. An aftermarket trans cooler is HIGHLY encouraged and a trans temp gauge would be very beneficial. Other smart upgrades are the shift kit, high flow oil pump in the auto trans, upgraded torque converter, and supporting mods. With all that being said put your foot hard on the left pedal, push the right pedal and watch your rpm's come up. It will go up to somewhere over 2K then climb a little bit more. If you watch your boost gauge it will climb as well. I can hold my rpm's around 2800 and have 12 psi on the boost gauge, let your left foot off the pedal and hold on.
You have to be very careful doing this as you can burn/cook/smoke your trans fluid from all of the heat build-up. That is where it is very important to have a gauge that accurately shows you what your trans fluid temps are. On a stock setup with no gauge,no after cooler, or electric fan on the cooler I would not hold the brake any more than three or four seconds, even with a built setup you don't want to hold it for more than ten. I wouldn't do this in hot temperatures, or all the time either. If you do plan on doing this pull your trans dip stick often and smell the fluid, if it smells burnt replace immediately.
Another mod is called a trans brake, or line mod where you install a switch that puts the car in low gear but locks the trans so you can set your rpm's to what ever you want. There is another mod for line pressure that is called the blue wire mod, but that isn't the same thing.
One of the best things I love about our auto's is the ability to build the boost and launch perfect every single time. I ran 12 psi in 1st gear and then hit my duel stage boost control in second gear @27 psi (this was on my GS-T). John at IPT built my last auto, and he will most likely get this one as well. He is like the Shep for manuals but for our auto's.

Hope this helps, but again I would not hold it for long with out supporting mods. I have a B&M trans cooler in the same spot the stock side mount was, helpful for driving but doesn't do anything for standing still holding it. I am waiting to get the small electric fan (kinda like a Spal, but smaller) to turn on when I am holding the trans brake.

 

[Leonthefaded]

Why not hold the clutch down in first get to the RPMs you want then drop the clutch?

 

[carfree123]

Why not hold the clutch down in first get to the RPMs you want then drop the clutch?

WTF
This thread is about autos... we don't have a clutch.

 

[Boostinsideways]

Because he drives an automatic. No clutch.

I've allways 2 footed it to launch an auto. One on the brake One on the throttle. You really need a trans temp gauge.

But basically you build your revs till you are starting to see boost. Lift off brake and once the car starts to roll punch it. Enjoy your 14 seconds or less.

Its a hell of a lot easier than launching a 5-speed, and easier to explain.

 

[vash_1010]

alright man, first, Nice car. Do not hold your brake and gas at the same time. Not only does your trans temp jump and cause damage, wheel hop on a GST is horrible. Granted, a good launch might be worth it, CV's will get chewed up. Stick to racing from a roll, easier your trans. Fixing your ebrake should be pretty straight forward its under your center counsel most likely. Auto's are great when it comes to spool time, Leave the stoplight to stoplight to the GSX's, own the highways...


to answer your question though, 2 seconds tops on both pedals.

 

[Boostinsideways]

Except that the auto is proven to take more punishment than the manual and people have had no issues launching them with either the 2 feet, or Handbrake method. Running a trans-temp gauge will help him learn how long he can brake boost without trashing his trans.