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newbie here,intro and need help

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92talonfwdtsi

Probationary Member
13
0
Feb 6, 2006
south florida, Florida
ive been in the saturn world for about 5 years,,trying to go 12's
almost their :D
but a buddy from work, who moved down here from michigan had a talon.
he drove it as a daily driver,but then the drivers side axle snapped at the tranny side..he replaced it,,went to move the car samething happened.
so i took a look at it,the rear,front crossmember is cracked..
he didnt feel like messing with it no more,and bought a new rx-8..he offered me the car,,i didnt have the flow on me,so i called a good freind he shelled out the $ for it and paid 2 tow it here,,so were goona split the costs and get this tsi in the 12's,,it will be a gutted,track car.
for the price we got it,cant go wrong...
so HOW DO I GO ABOUT GETTING THAT CROSSMEMBER OUT?????????

so the current mods that are/were done bye him are..
big 16g turbo,3"downpipe and exhaust,3"intake with k & n,hacked maf,
intercooler lines replaced with hard pipes,ss tubular race manifold,
autometer boost gage,act clutch put in about 6 months ago seen it myself,
short throw shifter,manual boost controoler,current overboosting at 18psi..
he told me i need a 190lph fuel pump if i was gonna continue to run 18psi,,so its on the list of new parts...in the process of pulling that crossmember 2 get welded,,need a new axle and this car should be road worthy again..got some pics,,,paint is horrible...
as soon as it treats us right at the track,we will treat the car to a gloss black..
so here they are..

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pic of the car b4 we picked it up,looks better without the jackstands
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pic of the ss manifold and turbo

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interior,will be gutted.

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pic of the crossmember that needs welded

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another pic of the manifold.
let me know what you all think
 
They are pretty easy to take out. If you have both the T-belt and Trans side motor mounts attached it should hold the motor up enough that you won't have support it at all. Remove your front motor mount and cross member, take the bolt out of the rear motor mount, take the bolt that holds the stearing shaft to the top of the rack, undo the p/s lines remove either the lower ball joints or the control arms undo the outter tie rod ends, then take out all the big 17mm bolts that hold it up I think there is like 6 of them.

I wouldn't mess with trying to weld it I bet it's twisted up pretty good. Go to your local junkyard and see if they have any DSM's ANY 2.0 FWD subframe will work both N/A and turbo 90-94 they usally drop the motor out the bottem so they have it pulled out alot of times anyway and might sell it rather cheap to you. 1.8's are diffrent so are AWD.

Later,
James
 
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