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New turbo-RESOLVED

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Kastigir

10+ Year Contributor
245
0
Sep 22, 2008
Cincinnati, Ohio
I recently purchased an Evo 3 16G turbo. I've searched and read around, and I just want to make sure of something. It will fit the manifold, but I need new oil lines and J pipe correct? Also, can this turbo hold 20 psi internally gated?
 
Thank you. I wasn't planning on running more than 20 for the time being. It arrived today and looks like it actually has everything I need to install it. If so, that makes this an even better deal.
 
It will fit the exhaust manifold fine, although it is recommended that you port your 2G manifold's collector area to match the larger turbine housing inlet of the Evo III 16G.

Your stock coolant lines will work, although they will need to be bent and modified slightly.

Your 2G oil drain will also work fine if you slot the two upper holes slightly toward the center.

The oil supply line from your T25 will not work. You will need a 1G oil supply line (feeds from the passenger's side front corner of the head), or you can replace the T25's oil supply from the filter housing with a braided stainless line. I do not recommend feeding a Mitsu turbo from the filter housing.

You will need some type of compressor discharge pipe for the 16G. This can either be the 1G's stock compressor outlet pipe, or one of the upgraded j-pipes from eBay or other vendors. Either choice will require modifying your lower intercooler piping slightly.
 
It will fit the exhaust manifold fine, although it is recommended that you port your 2G manifold's collector area to match the larger turbine housing inlet of the Evo III 16G.

Your stock coolant lines will work, although they will need to be bent and modified slightly.

Your 2G oil drain will also work fine if you slot the two upper holes slightly toward the center.

The oil supply line from your T25 will not work. You will need a 1G oil supply line (feeds from the passenger's side front corner of the head), or you can replace the T25's oil supply from the filter housing with a braided stainless line. I do not recommend feeding a Mitsu turbo from the filter housing.

You will need some type of compressor discharge pipe for the 16G. This can either be the 1G's stock compressor outlet pipe, or one of the upgraded j-pipes from eBay or other vendors. Either choice will require modifying your lower intercooler piping slightly.
It came with some hoses, a drain pipe, a new oil feed line it looks like, all the gaskets, and a J pipe. I was planning on porting the manifold as well as the turbo itself. I really do appreciate any and all help. I've never built a car before, and this is going to be fun.
 
Sounds like you got everything you need to complete the install....you're in for a lot of fun when it's on the car!

Just don't overdo it on boost until you get some fuel system upgrades. It's easy to get carried away.
 
Sounds like you got everything you need to complete the install....you're in for a lot of fun when it's on the car!

Just don't overdo it on boost until you get some fuel system upgrades. It's easy to get carried away.

Yea, I'm going to keep it at stock boost level until I get some 650s, and a Walbro 190.
 
Dont forget to prime the turbo!!!. Most common mistake on turbo swaps... Hopefully you read this before you finish the swap.
 
It WILL hold 20 psi.. i have a 16g that im actually going to be replacing with an hx35 or 50 trim and it holds it fine
 
Dont forget to prime the turbo!!!. Most common mistake on turbo swaps... Hopefully you read this before you finish the swap.

Most definitely, I'm still buying parts. If one could outline the procedure for doing this, it would be most appreciated.
 
Search here on tuners, i do know of a simple layout of a 14b/16g install on a 2g eclipse. Or you can go to VFAQ.com and im almost certain that have a detailed write up on that site for ya. I like the one on VFAQ.com because they walk you through step by step with pictures which is always very nice if you have never taken a turbo off before. Hope that helps you out!
 
Just real quick on my expereince with an evo3. Without a doubt it will hold 20psi. I lifted my head durring a tune. I was getting to the point of upping the psi and boooom! The top of the radiator blew apart on the highway. So far im at 28 psi on e-85 and love it!

One mor thing, you should read up on how to break in that turbo. In a short story you should just do a few start up and idle till operating temp and let it cool down. Then when its ready to be driven try not to let it boost at all for al lil bit. If caution is not taken I have seen them seize up as well as premature failure of the bearing and or shaft. Good luck and have fun bro. Hope this helps at alll
 
Just real quick on my expereince with an evo3. Without a doubt it will hold 20psi. I lifted my head durring a tune. I was getting to the point of upping the psi and boooom! The top of the radiator blew apart on the highway. So far im at 28 psi on e-85 and love it!

One mor thing, you should read up on how to break in that turbo. In a short story you should just do a few start up and idle till operating temp and let it cool down. Then when its ready to be driven try not to let it boost at all for al lil bit. If caution is not taken I have seen them seize up as well as premature failure of the bearing and or shaft. Good luck and have fun bro. Hope this helps at alll

:) yup
 
Most definitely, I'm still buying parts. If one could outline the procedure for doing this, it would be most appreciated.
I've found no proof that primed turbos last where unprimed ones don't....the turbo literally has oil as soon as the engine fires. It would be the same as if you let your car sit a few days and all the oil has drained out of the center housing- do you pull the oil line off and prime the turbo everytime the car sits more than 3 or 4 days? Didn't think so.

If it makes you feel better, turn the turbo upside down and pour and ounce or two of motor oil into the oil drain flange just prior to installation. Spin the shaft by hand a few times to circulate the oil, then quickly turn the turbo back over and dump it out. You don't want oil to sit in the housing or it will leak past the turbine and compressor seals.


One mor thing, you should read up on how to break in that turbo. In a short story you should just do a few start up and idle till operating temp and let it cool down. Then when its ready to be driven try not to let it boost at all for al lil bit. If caution is not taken I have seen them seize up as well as premature failure of the bearing and or shaft.
First I've heard of this. I've had guys literally back out of my driveway and rip on it right after a new turbo installation with no adverse effects.

When I rebuild a turbo or install an upgraded rebuild on a customer's car, this is my break-in procedure:

- Install the turbo, then start the car and check for leaks at the oil drain, oil supply, and coolant lines (if applicable).

- I take the car out for a short test drive to a turnaround about 3 miles from my house. I allow the engine to reach operating temp, then after I turn around I give it hell headed back to the shop to make sure the turbo reaches peak boost and pulls hard. Total break-in time, about 3 minutes.

- Back at the shop, I once again check for any obscene leaks or smoke, then retorque the manifold-to-turbo bolts with the engine hot....and that's it.

I haven't had a failure yet due to poor break-in or installation.
 
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