New tranny nothing right

[schalk35]

"Shimming" Refers to Shimming the pivot ball (little round thing inside the bell housing of Trans.) You shim it out further so that your clutch fork arm has less travel. You should really look into reading vfaq.com its a great site with a lot of helpful knowledge.

 

[Chipper308]

"Shimming" Refers to Shimming the pivot ball (little round thing inside the bell housing of Trans.) You shim it out further so that your clutch fork arm has less travel. You should really look into reading vfaq.com its a great site with a lot of helpful knowledge.

whoa, why have i never heard of ths place...shmexy thanks

 

[donniekak]

On a level surface put the car in 1st with the car off. Start the car already in first gear, with the clutch to the floor. Rev the engine to 6-7000 rpms, if the car moves at all, the clutch is still dragging.
What is the step height of the flywheel?
If by adjusting the rod you cant get the clutch to engage at least halfway up the travel, instead of right at the floor, you have a hydraulic issue, improperly stepped flywheel, bent clutch fork, or other clutch related issue destroying your new transmission.

 

[Chipper308]

On a level surface put the car in 1st with the car off. Start the car already in first gear, with the clutch to the floor. Rev the engine to 6-7000 rpms, if the car moves at all, the clutch is still dragging.
What is the step height of the flywheel?
If by adjusting the rod you cant get the clutch to engage at least halfway up the travel, instead of right at the floor, you have a hydraulic issue, improperly stepped flywheel, bent clutch fork, or other clutch related issue destroying your new transmission.

would a shim fix this issue? its NOT shimmed....hydraulics are fine and all hydraulics parts have been replaced. flywheel is stepped .610 all around and resurfaced and he assures me it is correct,( the machine shop) he swears on everything it was done correctly and measured on 4 spots the trans is brand new, the fork is not bent/damaged, in fact i think its a heavier duty than the stock one seeing its a built trans from TMZ. it hought id put this somwhere in this thread allrdy =\ but thanks for the imput....again ### do you think of the shim issue?

 

[Chipper308]

Bump

 

[twicks69]

The transmission was built 19 months ago, and had a Competition Clutch forged steel clutch fork sold to Luke at a later date.

Is the TOB clip properly installed?

Did the transmission input shaft rest on the clutch disk while it was being installed? The installer could have bent/damaged the clutch disk hub causing the dragging if the engagement is "perfect".


I still don't understand how people always screw this up. It is the installer/end user responsible for adjustment of a clutch and installation of a clutch/transmission and its associated components. It is not the transmission rebuilder or clutch vendor's responsibility to hold your hand through the process. Sorry if it sounds like I am venting, but 3am PM's are not appreciated.

 

[Chipper308]

Marking this thread as resolved, even tho it is not. But apparently this is turning into a headache for more than just me, its growing apparent to me that something was not installed properly inside the bell housing. Thanks all u guys for the helpful posts!

 

[Evilimports]

I'm an ASE Master Certified Tech and I've worked on cars for almost 10 years now and I can't tell you how many times I had to bleed that damn clutch before I got a good pedal. Have somebody step on the clutch pedal and open the slave bleeder, once the pressure bleeds off push the slave all the way in before tightening the bleeder.--pump the pedal a couple times-- Open the bleeder and have someone step on the pedal again (obviously keeping the pedal pressed down until you get the bleeder tight.) At this point it should spit the last bit of air. Tighten you bleeder down and hope to hell you got it.

 

[lil corb]

From what I gathered, and chipper308 I read this on your other post, the SBC disk needs a lot of time to wear down enough to have the pedal travel raise up. I was told by Tim to drive it (more than the 300miles I have) and see if the engagment has raised up. So far I am noticing the pedal needing adjustment because of the disk wear.

As I read before, do an adjustment so the clutch isn't dragging and not overextending and also being able to shift with out any grinding.

Goodluck

 

[Chipper308]

I'm an ASE Master Certified Tech and I've worked on cars for almost 10 years now and I can't tell you how many times I had to bleed that damn clutch before I got a good pedal. Have somebody step on the clutch pedal and open the slave bleeder, once the pressure bleeds off push the slave all the way in before tightening the bleeder.--pump the pedal a couple times-- Open the bleeder and have someone step on the pedal again (obviously keeping the pedal pressed down until you get the bleeder tight.) At this point it should spit the last bit of air. Tighten you bleeder down and hope to hell you got it.

i appreciate it but it bled for certain, about ###### 14 hours into bleeding the clutch lines, and the slave. the slaves in fact moves so far it would be a alot if i told you i could fit a baseball card in between the bell housing and the fork, the fork also sits in the center at rest maybe even a little to the drivers side, but id say closer to center. ive had it to multiple dsm people and a trans mech and on a power bleeder, none of it did anything =\

From what I gathered, and chipper308 I read this on your other post, the SBC disk needs a lot of time to wear down enough to have the pedal travel raise up. I was told by Tim to drive it (more than the 300miles I have) and see if the engagment has raised up. So far I am noticing the pedal needing adjustment because of the disk wear.

As I read before, do an adjustment so the clutch isn't dragging and not overextending and also being able to shift with out any grinding.

Goodluck

i have driven roughly 500 miles of babying it and the issue hasnt even changed in the slightest unfortunately in fact when the disk is warm it can somtimes be so bad that if i put it in first with the clutch all the way down it will start to move forward without any gas at all. but thanks you

 

[donniekak]

If your clutch fork almost hits the transmission, but it still doesn't disengage completely, check your crankshaft end play.

 

[pauleyman]

so far it would be a alot if i told you i could fit a baseball card in between the bell housing and the fork

This points very squarely at something inside the bellhousing. Did you check all the bolts including the one above the transfer case that threads in from the back? ESPECIALLY that one??

Post 36 is a good idea also.

 

[Hal]

One thing... are the pressure plate to flywheel bolts actually pulling the pressure plate to the flywheel?

Some people, when installing some aftermarket clutches, have found that torquing the bolts to factory spec doesn't actually pull the plate all of the way to the flywheel.

Easy to see by pulling off the dust cover and checking for a gap

 

[Chipper308]

Okay after trying to diagnose the issue and getting told to check the hydraulics 2947394857 times I tore it out shimmed the pivot ball, it engages at about half petal, it shifts like a freak in dream and I have absolutely no drag what so ever, its 1000% and 3 fellow dsm'rs have now said they will be shimming theirs next time the trans it out because they are jealous of how good it feels thanks for all the replies guys! Experience has taught me a lot

 

[twicks69]

You only masked another problem with your setup. I am happy it works for you, but there is still something else going on.

Be sure to properly break in the clutch, and then you will require a clutch adjustment when it breaks in.

 

[Chipper308]

As long as it doesn't create more problems down the road I'm fine with covering it up . When I re adjust the clutch I'll have to back off the flywheel more correct?

 

[Chipper308]

Also where is the ideal engagement on the pedal? Just curious