New to this board - not to my 98 GSX

[JCaruso]

Hi, group. Been cruising this excellent board for a while - just now able to post.

I own a stock 98 GSX that I bought new. It has been my primary mode since then, and now has 253,500 miles - no major work required to the engine - just oil changes and timing belts. I'm on my second set of brake pads (I like to downshift, and will frequently double clutch from second to first to scrub that last 8 to 10 mph down to 1 or 2 mph before applying my brakes - makes slowing down almost as interesting as launching).

I would still be on my first clutch (I always fully engage before applying full power - perhaps someone can give me a few pointers on faster launching) except the hydraulics failed (are there two hydraulic thingy's in there - both had to be replaced - pedal would just fall to the floor - I double clutched forward gears to get to the shop, got out and pushed if I had to back up (no way you're gonna get that tranny into reverse without a clutch)).

Those hydraulic thingies are the only major repair I've ever had to have done to the car. Engine runs as smoothly as the first time I started it up. I did develop lifter tick in the last 20k, and had been reading here that it really isn't a problem (my mechanic agrees). Last weekend, yet a second tick (louder than the first) developed, so I decided to switch to Mobil 1 (potential leaks be damned). Too soon to comment on leaks, but all lifter noise vanished within the first 50 miles. Now, I love to just get out and walk around the car when it sits at idle - such a nice sound from an engine that's been doing its thing for all those miles.

I'm an over fifty guy who purchased this car to replace a Taurus SHO (it had 148k on the odometer when I met a deer on the interstate - only about 10k worth of damage, but I spun out on impact and pretty much bumped up every body panel - insurance would not spring for repairs and insisted on totaling my ride).

The Taurus had this beautiful looking (and very reliable) Yamaha engine, but, other than that, the stock car was a bit lame. You could count on replacing throw-out bearing in the clutch every 40k or so, and being no do-it-yourselfer, that was a costly repair, but that engine was a honey.

Anyhow, I bought the Eclipse on a lark because it seemed to be the only "respectable" looking car an old guy like me could afford that approached the performance of the SHO. Actually, IMO, this car's boost kicks in sooner and probably makes it faster off the line (just my opinion - the SHO had this dual plenum setup where boost only kicked in after 4000 rpm - the SHO is not turbocharged).

The GSX is an infinitely finer handling car, and, of course, feels much more like a sports car than my SHO. Additionally, being able to open the rear hatch and lower the seats makes it more practical than the SHO as well (an old guy's secret, ). I can carry all manner of stuff back there, big TV sets, Christmas trees, etc.

Long story short, I love my car an plan to just keep on driving it.

Thanks for a great forum. I may do some or none of the mods I read about here, but reading about them is great fun. I'd be inclined to mod if I were more handy at doing things myself. Having to pay to get your service done definitely has its drawbacks. The SHO's AC clutch failed once (at about 94k). The dealer replaced it, but made some sort of mistake(s) in the process that caused the car to heat up whenever you operated the AC. To this day, I don't know exactly what they did wrong, but it took plenty of pressure from me and about six months of repeated return visits to the dealer to get the error corrected. They kept telling me it had to do with the car's age (only about four years old at the time) or mileage. I kept insisting to the contrary, and finally prevailed in reaching Ford's national level tech folks. They sent someone in to look at the car and it was fixed within a day (pity, a week later, I hit that goofy deer).

The problem with the SHO is that it looked much like a regular Taurus on the outside until you opened the hood. Most of the guys in the dealerships around here didn't know (or refused) to perform service according to whatever special requirements that car had due to it's special engine (certainly nothing special if you knew what you were doing).

Ergo, my hesitancy to mod my Eclipse. It runs flawlessly now - but, will certainly develop a need for service in the future. I know the service guys at my dealership and they are in love with my high-mileage car (actually, except that they've watched all those miles go on, they would find that mileage and the way the car runs hard to believe). They've done all the service on it, and are sort of on a mission to keep it running perfectly for me.

I can only guess what sort of blank stares I might get if I brought it in with some problem after having a bunch of mods done.

I'm not ruling out mods, just telling you how I feel at present.

Sorry to ramble so, but I love my car and enjoy this forum.

JCaruso

 

[JCaruso]

I read that top speed for the car is 130-140. I've taken it out on a lonely stretch and opened it up. After you reach 120, the extra speed comes slowly, but, I had her up to 150 and still had 1800 rpm left before redline. I got nervous and backed off (old guy like me would have a hard time explaning that speed to the cops), but at no time did I notice any fuel shut-off.

So, is my fuel shut off "SHUT-OFF"? or what? My SHO was limited to 143 - a fact I know from experience. My GSX simply doesn't shut-off.

I'm not complaining (and don't take a chance on open roads at getting her up that high very often).

Not unusual, however, for me to cruise at 96-100. Always solid as a rock at higher speeds.

In Nov, I got stopped doing 97 in a 55. Received a ticket, of course, but the jurisdiction had an option in place where, if you had no priors in the last 12-months, you could opt for a "traffic saftey" course to avoid having the citation reported to the state DMV. I took that option and completed the course (Traffic School to go.com) online (what a hoot!!).

Of course, now that option is spent (can't exercise it again until my "prior" disappears in a year, then, can't exercise that option more than once in a two year span, so I'll have to be careful for a couple of years (or take the points, hmm).

Anyhow, is there something unusual about my car that it would exceed the electronic limited speed at the top end?

JCaruso

 

[crankbender]

The "limit" is not present on the AWD (all wheel drive) variations of the DSM.

happy boosting and glad to hear that ol car is running great (ol in miles only).

 

[doug]

Welcome to the board. I understand what you're saying about hesitancy to mod, but this is how I look at it-- a repair shop, whether it's the stealership, an independent "generic" shop, or even a DSM specialty speed shop, is pretty unlikely to refuse to work on your car if you bring it in, modded or not. It's not like you have any warranty still left anyway. I've never had a problem taking my car anywhere.

Also, I think you will find that this car is MUCH easier to work on if you just give it a shot. I'd never worked on any of my cars before, and I'm almost 40 myself (man, that was hard to type) . There's tons of useful info and step-by-step install guides for most bolt-on upgrades. Since I got this car, I've learned a LOT and have done things to it I never imagined I'd do just a few years ago-- brakes, turbo upgrade, etc.

I think you'd be pleased with a few basic upgrades and I encourage you to think about doing some. Just the ubiquitious "intake and exhaust" will add some noticeable pep to the beast.

 

[JCaruso]

<<The "limit" is not present on the AWD (all wheel drive) variations of the DSM. >>

I guess that explains it, then. I'm surprised that no limit arrangement was allowed to fly in the US - seems like almost everything is electronically limited.

So, I'm wondering why did us AWD'ers get so lucky? Is there some design constraint that made Mitsu decide not to limit top speed? Just curious.

Thanks for the replies, and, yes, Doug, I'll probably take the plunge (one toe at a time, thank you) and perform some mods on my car.

JCaruso

 

[doodie]

AWD's came with Z rated tires so they didn't have rev limiters on them. FWD's have H rated tires so they put a rev limiter on.

BTW, its great to hear a 2g 7bolt make it to such high milage. Thats got to be the highest milage stock 7 bolt I've ever heard of.

On a side note, I hear what you mean about the Taurus. My uncle parked his 94 Taurus at my place for the pass 2 weeks because hes on a vacation and I've been driving that whenever I needed to cause I didn't want to back the cars twice. And let me say that the car handles like ASS. He didn't have the SHO, but he had the V6 in there. The whole car wobbles around like a fat lady and it just doesn't stick to the ground at all. I don't consider my GST to have good handling, but compared to the Taurus, the GST was like heaven. That 3.8 liter motor in that Taurus was also a pig. I can't believe this is the actual motor thats in the Ford Mustangs.

 

[Shifty]

Judging by miles and the fact that you didn't have a cam break, i'd say you had the 89-95 SHO. That Yamaha engine is a beast, 240 horse and a 5-spd. Fastest family car I can think of in those years. You CAN'T compare a taurus gl or w/e to an SHO, there is no comparison and no exact characteristics of the two.

Welcome to the board, and sounds like you are living life easily at the respectable age.

Later,
Shifty

 

[Forced4]

AWD's came with Z rated tires so they didn't have rev limiters on them. FWD's have H rated tires so they put a rev limiter on.

AWD actually came from Mitsu with "V" rated tires. ALL years included. My '95 hit the rev limiter and it was an AWD so I'm pretty sure that's incorrect as well.

I know a few people that have had thier 2G's at about 145 for a short time in stock condition. I'd say about half have replaced the engine after that due to a lean condition and melted pistons. Make sure it is all working just right before you start cruising those high speeds for any length of time.

Just my .02

Rich
Forced 4

 

[doodie]

Originally posted by Shifty
Judging by miles and the fact that you didn't have a cam break, i'd say you had the 89-95 SHO. That Yamaha engine is a beast, 240 horse and a 5-spd. Fastest family car I can think of in those years. You CAN'T compare a taurus gl or w/e to an SHO, there is no comparison and no exact characteristics of the two.

Welcome to the board, and sounds like you are living life easily at the respectable age.

Later,
Shifty

Hm.... how about a Galant VR4?

 

[CanadianTSi]

Do the Basic's, Boost Gauge, Manual Boost Controller, Intake, Exhaust and I think you'll be pleasently surprised by your new found power, but still maintain full driveability

 

[doug]

I believe rev limiter and speed limiter are two different things, aren't they?

 

[eclipsed95]

253,500 miles

I'm very impressed, welcome to tuners

 

[JCaruso]

Thanks to all for the warm welcome. It's 254,500 since my original post. Seems like this car just keeps going and going. I mentioned in my first post that I had done no major work to the car - well, that's true, but I have replaced wheels - stock wheels got bent from hitting a pothole, and I didn't feel like spending what the dealer wanted for new ones. I purchased a set of SportLine, a five spoke open design with trumpet like flared rims that are 8" instead of 7" (they're wider, I know, and I think those numbers are correct). I've had to replace them, also. My angle of view to the road from this car is so narrow that I just can't see many of those pesky potholes, even though I try to watch for them.

Also, axle bearings went on the front at around 160k (and lower ball joints, too) - I was noticing a sort of rubbing on slow turns - the tech told me I was lucky not to have lost the wheels, .

I know most folks here do their own work, and I'd like to do mine as well (someday). I must say, however, I lucked out with my dealer. It's a small dealership - the service writers pay attention and really know the car - and the techs are also knowledgeable and honest.

Now, if only I could find that one lone rattle in my rear hatch, sort of like the plastic end of a wiring harness tapping against metal that comes and goes - and has been with me on and off since mile one - ah, but that will be the topic of another search/post.

I'm surprised that the car otherwise remains so "tight" and fun to drive after all these years/miles - it's nice to actually get your money's worth out of a vehicle - especially one that's so much fun to drive.

Thanks again for the replies and to the administrators for such a great forum.

Caruso

Originally posted by eclipsed95
253,500 miles

I'm very impressed, welcome to tuners

 

[JCaruso]

Originally posted by Shifty
Judging by miles and the fact that you didn't have a cam break, i'd say you had the 89-95 SHO. That Yamaha engine is a beast, 240 horse and a 5-spd. Fastest family car I can think of in those years. You CAN'T compare a taurus gl or w/e to an SHO, there is no comparison and no exact characteristics of the two.

Welcome to the board, and sounds like you are living life easily at the respectable age.

Later,
Shifty

My SHO was a '94 - It was either the last or next to last model year before the re-design and end of the SHO - Ford used the badge during the next styling era, but the stick and the Yamaha powerplant, and the character were gone (or I'd have re-upped after the deer).

The Yamaha made 220 HP - and, you're right, the SHO handled much better than the standard Taurus, came with Z-rated tires, a stiff suspension, and was, at its introduction, the fastest family sedan in the world (according to the mags). Don't get me wrong, I really loved that car, a true wolf in sheeps clothing (even if the clutch could eat me out of my house) - but I like my GSX even more.

Thanks for the welcome.

Caruso

 

[92awdgsx]

all DSMs have rev limiters. the AWDs don't have speed limiters.

 

[midnght]

Originally posted by JCaruso
Now, if only I could find that one lone rattle in my rear hatch, sort of like the plastic end of a wiring harness tapping against metal that comes and goes - and has been with me on and off since mile one -
Caruso

I would venture to say either your brake light is tapping the window or if you have your hatch cover still in it is the end pegs tapping around. It comes with the territory.

 

[JCaruso]

I think I read somewhere else on this board that it might be my brake light tapping the windshield.

I don't think it's my hatch cover pins - I only have one of those, now. I had a heavy bucket (don't ask what was in it) bang into that cover and pulled one of the pins out so that it doesn't stay in anymore. I used to mess with it a lot, but, one day closed the hatch after the pin had fallen out onto the lip of the hatch opening - smashed it (it's only plastic . . . I never realized that) - so I'm short one pin . . . no big deal.

There's another quirck about the hatch cover that I watch for to keep it from making noise. The hatch cover isn't like the trunk lid of a non-hatchback car that you can force shut when you're trying to carry a full load. If you put a package (or or too much laundry or whatever) in the trunk area and it sticks up too high, so that the hatch cover strikes it when you close the hatch door, the frame of the cover gets bent. Then, when the cargo is removed, the bent shape compromises the contact that those little black bumpers make between the body and the hatch, and that allows the cover to vibrate as the car goes over bumps. You get this annoying low-pitched thumping that sounds almost as if your hatch is not securely latched.

If you haven't bent the cover frame too much, it's easy to bend back so as to "re-tension" it and eliminate the rattle (thumping).

I've seen some guys actually break those tabs where the black "bumpers" are attached. Then, the cover just sort of lays back there like a limp fish. One of my pet peeves, I guess, but, I'm very careful to make certain my hatch cover closes without hitting anything I might be carrying in the trunk area. If it won't close, I take it out.

Sorry to be so lengthy.

Caruso

 

[doug]

You can actually buy a bag of 4 of those pins that hold the brake light housing on for like $2 at the dealership. I break them occasionally, like the time I replaced the brake light bulb.

 

[midnght]

Yeah, I broke one of those plastic pegs off and it rattled for a whole 10 mins. before I headed to the stealership for a $3.14 bag of 4 tan plastic pins.

 

[Slappster]

I can't believe the t25 has lasted that long. They usually need rebuilding around 90k with just regular use.

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

JCaruso, which dealer do you go to?

 

[JCaruso]

Not bashful to name the dealer. . . trust that moderators will delete the post if I step over the line.

Dealer is Tom Masano Mitsubishi. Two service writers - Ron and Mike.

And, to the previous poster who expresses amazement that the turbo is still functioning after 254k, I was told that they are only good for about 60k. I hear, listen, ask questions, but don't question, if you know what I mean.

My turbo still spools up like it did when the car was new - I never heard of a turbo timer until signing onto this board, so I don't have any advantage there.

I don't abuse the car - but push those parts that I feel ought to be up to being pushed - never pop the clutch/always fully engage before tromping on the accelerator - but I tromp on that accelerator very regularly, as in every chance I get - love that feeling.

I do donwshift regularly - as whenever I have to slow down - again, never popping the clutch - often, I'll double clutch to downshift to whatever gear far before syncros would otherwise permit me - then, I ease the clutch out, delaying allowing full engagement until the car has slowed to well within that gear/rev range. Works well to slow the car down, doesn't strain engine or tranny, and really saves big time wear and tear on the brakes - my thinking being that my downshift approach doesn't come close to subjecting the clutch wear surface to the sort of extremes to which it is designed to withstand. My experience (no clutch wear issues) tends to bear out this assumption.

In some thirty-five years of driving cars - I've never been more pleased with a car or the dealer service than I have during ownership of this car.

I'm not into the dealership for every little thing these days - opted to buy aftermarket wheels because (IMO) dealership replacements were just way too expensive - ditto the fog lights (could not pass the last inspection without pulling them out because the outer lense on both were shattered even though they were operable - got aftermarket replacements for less than half what the dealer quoted - and, frankly, was a little disappointed with the dealer's attitude on this subject - which was along these lines: "on a car this old, best to just pull them out - it'll pass inspection and you don't really need them anyhow").

"Need" is not a word I associate with maintaining the appearance of this car. I wan't it to look good because . . . well, because I just want it to look good - dealer seems to have missed the boat on that point.

Often, I have my oil changed at quick change shops rather than the dealer - not to save money (I don't think they're any cheaper - and most certainly can't be trusted to know more than what's written on their sales script), but, because they're fast/convenient.

Tires/wheels are serviced at a local tire/wheel specialty shop.

Self-service items: Washing and waxing - .

That's it - no whiz bang to it.

I know for a fact that my dealership isn't the cheapest service route - but, I'm reasonably confident that they are well qualified, only perform necessary service, and have proven to be a valuable source of advice concerning service of my car (for instance, transfer case/crankwalk issues were addressed by them early in the service term of my vehicle).

Unlike the dealer where I (attempted) to have my SHO serviced, these guys seem to know the car and don't automatically assume that, because it has more than 100k on the odometer, I'll just trash it when it needs more than $300 in service.

I like that.

Caruso

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Ohhh, Tom Masano Mitsubishi. I've been there. Pretty good dealer from what I saw, and that impression seems backed up from your description of them. Did you say you had crankwalk issues? What happened there?

Also, I can see why the dealer suggested that you remove the fog lights. He was just trying to save you a few bucks in order to pass the state inspection, but on the other hand, my train of thought is the same as yours. I would like to retain the look of the car also.

As for downshifting, I would have to argue with you there. I would rather put the wear and tear of slowing down a car on the brakes, not the clutch and transmission. Brakes are way cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch and transmission. I know everyone has preferences and opinions, but that's how I see it.

 

[JCaruso]

Originally posted by AWDPetmitsu
Ohhh, Tom Masano Mitsubishi. I've been there. Pretty good dealer from what I saw, and that impression seems backed up from your description of them. Did you say you had crankwalk issues? What happened there?

Also, I can see why the dealer suggested that you remove the fog lights. He was just trying to save you a few bucks in order to pass the state inspection, but on the other hand, my train of thought is the same as yours. I would like to retain the look of the car also.

As for downshifting, I would have to argue with you there. I would rather put the wear and tear of slowing down a car on the brakes, not the clutch and transmission. Brakes are way cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch and transmission. I know everyone has preferences and opinions, but that's how I see it.

No prob with your preference to use brakes to save clutch. Many feel that way. My logic works for me - I've changed brake linings all around one time, and have since had to redo the front pads yet a second time (also had them resurface the rotors for that second set - they had started vibrating within the first 60k) - rears are still at 50% - this after 245k of driving.

Except for the failure of the hydraulics in my clutch, I would still be on the first one (I suppose you could argue that my additional use of the clutch for downshifting may have contributed to the hydraulic failure - who knows).

By my math, even factoring in the clutch hydraulics repair (essentially a complete clutch replacement), I'm still ahead of the game in terms of overall operating costs - but, then again, that's my math. As they say on the sticker, your mileage may vary.

I do the downshifting more because it make city driving more interesting for me than to simply save on the brakes. I also grin broadly when the guys at the shop stare in disbelieve at how little wear occurs on my brake pads - they find it unbelievable. Of course, I am not surprised as I almost never use the brakes. Having posted here, I made an effort to check the speed at which I am travelling when I do the double clutch to first - it's higher than I thought - usually at the 35-40 mph range. Without a double clutch and blip of the throttle, the tranny doesn't want to go into first at that speed, but, with a quick shift to neutral and a blip, she slips to first with ease - I then take care not to loose the clutch, but release very slowly - no more strain on the clutch than there would be strain on the brakes - and, I'm guessing here, but, I bet the clutch wear surface is better able to sustain the wear from what must be relatively low reverse revs than my brake pads (which are designed to wear away).

If you think about it, the clutch wear surface withstands much higher stress during launch than what I subject it to during controlled downshifts.

I'm no mechanic, and would love to hear some input on this from those more knowledgeable than I on this board.

OTOH, experience speaks volumes. I can't be doing everything wrong if I've needed only one clutch job in 254k miles, and I must be doing something right if I've only gone through 1.5 sets of brake pads in that same mileage.

Doesn't make my logic better than yours, however, so, thanks for the reply.

Oh, and you are right on with respect to my fog lights - the dealer and I discussed the options and decided that, for expediency, it would be best to pull out the fog lights temporarily. What we didn't agree upon was replacement - the dealer assumed that I would not want to replace them based on the cost. That was never a question in my mind - given a choice of fogs or no, I would have paid dealer price for them - but, not before checking for cheaper after market equivalents. It turned out that I could buy them and get them installed for a lot cheaper.

The new ones are really close to original, but, not quite. There is a certain oval shape to the housing of the orignals - the aftermarket ones I purchased are more circular, so they don't quite close the opening in the bumper. Another quirky thing - the orignals went some 230k without a problem, then, both lenses got broken. The replacements lasted less than three weeks, and one of them is now broken. It's only the outer lense that breaks - the replacements still light, so did my originals when they were removed. I'm not chasing rum runners and don't suspect that kids are poking out my lenses, so, I find it curious that I've had so much of a problem with them all of a sudden - go figure.

This is a problem I'll have to deal with again come next inspection date.

Caruso

 

[JCaruso]

Originally posted by AWDPetmitsu
Ohhh, Tom Masano Mitsubishi. I've been there. Pretty good dealer from what I saw, and that impression seems backed up from your description of them. Did you say you had crankwalk issues? What happened there?

Also, I can see why the dealer suggested that you remove the fog lights. He was just trying to save you a few bucks in order to pass the state inspection, but on the other hand, my train of thought is the same as yours. I would like to retain the look of the car also.

As for downshifting, I would have to argue with you there. I would rather put the wear and tear of slowing down a car on the brakes, not the clutch and transmission. Brakes are way cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch and transmission. I know everyone has preferences and opinions, but that's how I see it.

Forgot to respond to your crankwalk question. It may have been at my 1000 mile check up or shortly thereafter, but, the car was in for routine service early on when the dealer called me to explain that there was some problem with the tolerance of my engine crankshaft that they had discovered through some anomoly in the operation of my clutch. I, of course, had no clue, but just told them to take care of whatever it needed - the car, obviously was still in warranty. I remember that the repair involved major work on the engine. In retrospect, I am convinced that they discovered play in my crankshaft and corrected it by replacing the crank bearings (maybe even the crank, I don't know for sure) to correct the problem.

Same is true for the transfer case. I remember them telling me that there was a service bulletin on the transfer case, that they wanted to check and take corrective action. The service was performed - to date, no leaks or other problems with that component.

This is no fancy dealership - and they ain't cheap (although I've never felt gouged), but, in my experience, they've been up on most all recall/service bulletins - and have offered to perform them without my having to ask.

They are to "blame" as much as anyone for the way my car runs now (very well, thank you), after all these years/miles. More importantly, the service writers seem to enjoy cars and don't mind talking with you about yours - not really what I'm used to from service writers (no disrespect intended).

Caruso