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new rebuild not starting

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99 gst spyder

15+ Year Contributor
522
1
Jul 12, 2007
st. paul, Minnesota
Okay, here's my delima. Rebuild the block and I'm pretty sure everything inside is good. Slap on stock head with 272's.

Here's a picture of that unplugged hole.

Now I'm wondering why it wont start. I install 950cc in and everything/electrical is hooked up right. The ecu is reading 450cc before but I changed it to 950cc golbal/deadtime on ecmlink.

I go to start it up and it'll crank and crank but wont start. Then I went and look under the car and there was a puddle of oil coming from the side of the block behind the flywheel lost about a quart and 1/2 of oil. There is a hole on the block about the size of a quarter behind the flywheel. That hole wasn't plug and was spitting oil like crazy..

So, I'm wondering with that hole not plug, will that cause the motor not to start.

I had to take the tranny, clutch and flywheel off in order to see where the oil was coming from. I thought it was my crank seal but it was not. Happend to be that hole on the block.

note: brand new alternator, good starter and battery.

Thanks.
 

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Looks like where the trans mounts, simple as that i wouldnt worry about starting when you cant mount the transmission. There should be on each side, but i dont see the other hole?
 
Oh what is it then? It looks like where the trans mounts to the block looks like my 6 bolt block.Nothing else would be there, or am wrong. Is it stripped out?
 
Does it sound like its firing at all while cranking?

What deadtime are you using for the injectors?

I can caculate with whatever inj. size and base fuel pressure on ecmlink v3. and it change global to -52 or something like that.

I have COP setup, will change over to coil pack a wires to check for spark, and fuel line from fuel filter to rail. Not sure how to check for combustion.

It'll almost sound like it's going start but it cranks only.
 
You can check for compression with a compression tester. If you just built it though the numbers should be lower than what they will be when seated. But if you get a cylinder with 0 or they are all 100 and one or two are at 20. It would be a clear indicator that is causing it.


However, there are also other random things it could be like the coolant temp sensor on the waterneck. If this isn't plugged in it'll flood the engine preventing it from starting.

As long as your timing belt and all components are lined up, You could move the timing in and out, I'm not sure you could wack it far enough out to get it not starting. It will run horrible, but should still start.

I just went over months trying to get my 95 GSX with a 6 bolt starting. I replaced everything with no luck. One day I went out cranked it, and it just started. (previously I was only getting spark on 2 cylinders...)

If you have a cam position sensor you could rotate that manually and listen for the fuel to move through the system.

You can check for spark in the manner you mentioned. With those two things in check it's timing, or compression.

Also you have ecmlink, you mentioned. I have 0 experience with tuning gear. I know it's possible to have things in there out of whack, preventing starting too.
 
Are you using your stock 99 7 bolt head or a stock 6 bolt head? The CAM sensor is different on the heads and the firing is also different. I would take the COP off and plug the coils with the wires back in until you can get it started. When I had my COP without the dynatek arc amplifier the car didnt want to start. I plugged the coil packs and wires and the car fired right up.
 
Well while rebuild, the two coolant sensor wire was cut off of the harness with the harness still on the thromostat housing. I didn't splice those wire in, thinking that that didn't matter for the time being of starting.

So, my question is, without the wire connected on the coolant sensor, will that effect why it's not starting b/c I know the ecu needs to read the coolant temp when starting but not sure.

I'm using a smim so the ignition moduler can bolt up anywhere right, it doesn't need to be bolt up to any ground from chassis?

I'm using a 1990 6bolt block with 91 6bolt head. Engine was TDC when I install the CAS and timing belt.

I've done head swap, cams installation, turbo kit's, tranny, clutch and alot of timingbelt replace before and it always start right up.
 
Coolant Temp sensor does play a role in starting. Make sure you have the correct cam sensor for your ECU. The 98,99 models have the magnetic pick up like the EVO's and the previous models use a different pick up to fire the coils.

I'm still running the stock 6bolt CAS and I'm pretty sure it's the right one. I'll try and put everything back and start from scratch to see what's missing.
 
Still getting fuel when took the fuel line off of the fuel rail, but I can't hear the pump feeding when I turn ignition to on. So its should either be compression or spark. All lights and electricity works. Cranks but doesn't want to start. I'll try checking out for sparks and compression next.

I fixed all the coolant temp sensor already also.

CAS and starter all work before the rebuild. I just put a brand new alternator also. Head is in good condition. When installing the case, does it matter which way its turn? Note: motor was tdc and everthing even the head is. The only thing difference is the built block and new valve seals.
 
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