new motor - cranks, combusts, dies..

[my97mitsGSX]

ok, i have a 6bolt swap in my 2g.. i don't have any hoses on my tb connected because i blocked off the egr for now until the car runs good.. map sensor is plugged in but not mounted on the intake manifold

i'm getting fuel and spark looks like.. the car cranks, starts and revs to 400 and dies..

i'm wondering what it could be that's not letting it start..

oil pressure gauge is reading and goes up past mid-range so i'm getting oil pressure..

any ideas of why its not running?

i have the plugs installed as 4 3 2 1 on the head and 4 1 2 3 on the coil pack like the book says.. 1 3 4 2 firing order..

i have a 1990 cas, its wired according to rre's instructions..

let me know what other info i need to provide to help. thanks!

 

[jott5555]

recheck the cas wireing and look for any shorts. mabey try to swap anohter ecu you know works in. and see what happens. before you try to restart the enigine fully assembly it do a boost pressure test. ect..

 

[my97mitsGSX]

i can't do a compression check since the engine isn't warm..

the turbo is bolted up but the wastegate is open - i'm not trying to boost for the break-in..

there are no vacumn lines on the t-body - egr is blocked off..

all sensors are connected except for 3 wires ( one wire is a single connector red/orange, not sure where it goes.. ) the other connector is a two wire (black & black/white ) which goes to the thermo switch on the water neck but i need to connect the wires to the switch because the switch has tabs instead of a plug connector.. i dont' think it would affect start up though ?


ECU is the same as the one i had in the car before the swap and worked fine..

 

[jott5555]

ok there are no vac lines.. did you cap them off. when you did the emissions removal did you cap off everything tht was needed to and route the remaining lines the same??

 

[my97mitsGSX]

i didn't cap anything off the t-body

i connected the FPR to the soliniod.. (sp)

the intake manifold has like 4 connections for air/vacumn lines.. i connected the rear one.. not sure what that is for.. i also have one that goes to the bov.. another goes to a vacumn line that is located next to the FPR hose. i have 1 left that is not connected .. i'm not sure where that goes ?

can you pm me your number and help me out possibly - i'll call you tomorrow.

i also think the ecu looks for the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.. i'm going to soldier it in and see if that makes a difference..

 

[jott5555]

this should help you out.. not to be an ass but next time do the homework before you undertake the project.

all the red dots are vaccuum caps, you are looseing metered air through those ports that are uncaped. so your ecu sees a lot of air sends a lot of fuel but the accual amount of air that is going into the engine is far less. so it runs so rich it floods the car.

there ya go bro.

 

[AWDlaserRS]

Just a comment on one of your previous posts about how your not boosting for the break in. There is no reason to have to do this, the car came from the factory turbocharged and it was meant to be turbocharged from the time it left the factory. It wont hurt anything to boost during break in. As long as your running the stock boost levels. On another note your car will idle fine with the wastegate open but at and around driving speeds it is going to always be running too rich, so really Its better for the engine to be boosting anyways.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

this should help you out.. not to be an ass but next time do the homework before you undertake the project.

all the red dots are vaccuum caps, you are looseing metered air through those ports that are uncaped. so your ecu sees a lot of air sends a lot of fuel but the accual amount of air that is going into the engine is far less. so it runs so rich it floods the car.

there ya go bro.

I've actually been researching this thing for months, i have done motor swaps before, but nothing like this where I've built the motor myself.. mostly I did honda's..


No one said to cap them off, they said leave them unplugged.. so i did. I will cap them off and see if it helps any.

I would still think the engine would start anyhow. It will just run a little rich.

Thanks!

 

[my97mitsGSX]

Just a comment on one of your previous posts about how your not boosting for the break in. There is no reason to have to do this, the car came from the factory turbocharged and it was meant to be turbocharged from the time it left the factory. It wont hurt anything to boost during break in. As long as your running the stock boost levels. On another note your car will idle fine with the wastegate open but at and around driving speeds it is going to always be running too rich, so really Its better for the engine to be boosting anyways.

I meant to say not boost for the initial start up and 30 mile breakin.. after that i'll be hooking it back up for the rest of the break-in. I'm saving up for DSM Link to be able to manage my fuel/ignition.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

NEW STATUS:


The motor starts, revs to 3k, then slowly falls down until it stalls..

i will link a vid once i find the cable for my camera-pc..

if i rev it, it'll keep running


my fuel light came on, but i have a half a tank at least..

 

[Shane818]

a couple issues might be going on. are you venting to the atmosphere? i had the same issue, i chaged the throttle screw a little and it idles perfect now. if you venting and you running a maft i dont know what the issue could be.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

not venting

i added 4 gallons of fuel.. for some reason my guel gauge reads 0 fuel yet i know i have almost a half of tank

i'll see if the needle goes back up now


i tightened the intercooler hoses..


i'll give it a start in a bit, i have to charge the battery now..

 

[my97mitsGSX]

well its running now.. very rough but it keeps going with rpms varrying from 1-2k.. it almost dies and then it picks up..

i also found a nice oil leak.. oil is splashing out in the front case someplace.. the timing belt is soaked and a mist of oil is coming out from the cam gears area.. it must be that plug when i removed the balance shaft..

can this be fixed w/o removing the motor entirely?

i can deal with the cramped work space.. i just don't feel like pulling it all out..

i'm sure its just that plug which should be easy to get to if I lower the motor a tad..

 

[jott5555]

man that sucks..

 

[my97mitsGSX]

it seems to be coming from the oil pump

i took off all the belts, timing cover, etc..

its either the oil pump pulley that the timing belt goes around, or that little screw that spins with it slightly above to the right..

it also looks like some oil coming out behind the crank sprocket.. at least its not that bad working on the motor with it lowered slightly..

i'm going to take the front case off, inspect it, and if all good, re-seal it.

It only leaks when the motor runs, when i just turn it over by hand it doesn't leak.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Just another thing to consider...how long has your car been sitting when you were building the 6-bolt for it? I let mine sit for about 2-3 months, and the gas just turned to shit. Its always a good idea to drain it out and get all that nasty stuff in there cleaned out. Its better for your fuel filter too. Not sure if that helps, but its something to think about.

 

[my97mitsGSX]

Just another thing to consider...how long has your car been sitting when you were building the 6-bolt for it? I let mine sit for about 2-3 months, and the gas just turned to shit. Its always a good idea to drain it out and get all that nasty stuff in there cleaned out. Its better for your fuel filter too. Not sure if that helps, but its something to think about.

i drained it, it was fine actually

i added 4 gallons of fresh, expensive, premium fuel..

it starts, but damn its a mess with all that oil squirting out on the floor

 

[ninety7gst]

could u tell us what you've done instead when you post the new status of your car...jsut so that everyone else can learn from what you've done. TNX

 

[2.4 turbo Hyped]

I saw you mentioned your map sensor was plugged in but not bolted on. This could be the reason you are having a hard time starting the car and getting it to idle.

 

[psychlow]

OK - now, I'm not trying to be an ass, because we all need to learn this stuff once, but I'm going to try to explain why your setup might be running rough, and why it originally didn't work.

I know that this post is now old, but I figure I'd reply for the benefit of others and just in case you're still having issues.

ok, i have a 6bolt swap in my 2g.. i don't have any hoses on my tb connected because i blocked off the egr for now until the car runs good.. map sensor is plugged in but not mounted on the intake manifold

Two things -
1) When you have throttle body and intake manifold vacuum lines unplugged, the engine will have issues. Why? Because your engine is sucking in air through those lines, instead of up the intake tract. This matters because that air is not being read by the ECU, so the ECU thinks you need much less fuel than you actually get. The result is an engine that is running way too lean. This isn't DSM-specific - this is true for all engines.
2) Without the MAP sensor where it is supposed to be, how is your car metering the amount of air entering the engine?

i connected the FPR to the soliniod.. (sp)

the intake manifold has like 4 connections for air/vacumn lines.. i connected the rear one.. not sure what that is for.. i also have one that goes to the bov.. another goes to a vacumn line that is located next to the FPR hose. i have 1 left that is not connected .. i'm not sure where that goes ?

Okay, so you have routed a line on the front of the intake manifold to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid, then from the FPS to the FPR, right? If not, you're not getting appropriate fuel pressure reduction/rise.

The rear vacuum line should go to your brake booster.

i'm sure its just that plug which should be easy to get to if I lower the motor a tad.

If you take off your driver's side motor mount, you should be able to lower the engine some.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Why is map sensor not bolted onto the manifold.? That is another vaccuum leak.

When you elinated the balance shafts, did you reinstall the bs idler pulley with the bolt? or just put the bolt back in.? If you just put the bolt back in without the pulley or installing a shorter bolt, that is your oil leak right there.