new mods!

[eclitz88]

Hey everyone, it has been a while since I have posted anything on dsmtuners, but I am on the site daily. I usually find what I'm looking for, and have learned a lot from everybody. Just want to say thanks!
That being said I have upgraded my car quit abit in the pat year. I just got the Innovate MTX-L Wideband and I do not have ecm link v3 yet. I'm planning on getting it in the next couple Weeks. But as far installation I think I understand the idea. I have two questions about it though. Number 1: Should install the sensor in the front or the back spot in replace of one of the sensors, and just use the narrow band simulation wire taped into the correct pin on the ecu (cut our tap into the signal wire?)
Number2: when I get ecm link I want have the wires right and ready for when I get it. Should I just run my yellowin and brown signal wires to ecu connector and not hook them up untill I get link? My understanding the link has a narrow band simulator build into it, so say I have link now installed but not wideband, and im in the pocess of installing the yellow and brown wire for the wideband, and say I replaced the front sensor with wideband. Should I just tap in the correct pin with the wide band signal wire from back of the MTX-L unit for logging for ecm link since the narrowband front sensor will be disconected anyways? Then with link turn on the simulator and not use the simulator from the MXT-L.?
My mods concist of
Punishment racing FMIC for the 16g
Graedy typeS bov
DW200 not yet installed (stock has been rewired and fused)
Evo3 big 16g Turbo
apexi downpipe, no cat, and apexi muffler
I have a Fuel preasure regulator (installed)
1g throttle body with all vac lines caped (charcoal canister is removed)
injen intake (not yet installed)
Arp headstuds (I was told when I got the car, I would like to make sure and do a posible retorque) what all would I have do? And would/should I replace the valve cover gasket?
After it installed the FPR (set to around 50psi) and the FMIC it would run, but when trying to set my manual boost controller. Id screw it all the way out and would push around 10psi and spool slow then it creep bad up to 24psi. So I went through the vac lines to the bov and MBC and all are zip tied. My actuator is working as I testEd it with the air compressor. there is a nipple on the intercooler piping after the J pipe, I ran from there to the MBC (non spring ball type) then out to the wastegate actuator. Is that the correct way? I've also ran straight from the intercooler piping to the wastegate actuator and still boost creeps. Any ideas? btw the Turbo mani is ported. Well that was more than two questions, . Thanks in advance!

 

[SoDakGSX]

Took me a while to get through all that, some spaces between questions would help haha. I'll try to answer some of them as best as I can though

1) I installed a new bung for my wideband on the down pipe after the front sensor. Reason being, if my wideband sensor went out, I would still have my narrowband to fall back on just in case.

2) In regards to wiring up before link.. If you are just tapping into the ecu wiring, I don't see why it would hurt anything till you can get link. Just make sure you T into the correct pins and solder everything. Don't use those vampire taps, they suck and on something permanent like you're doing, solder is better.

3) As far as the ARP's, don't quote me, but I heard the hex head is different from the stockers. Stock is 10mm, ARP is 12mm.. So I've heard.. Easiest way to check is to pop the valve cover off and take a look. I would grab a Haynes or Chiltons manual and read up first before you start tearing into it. You don't want to grab a wrench and just start torquing them all down.

4) So you have the bleeder type MBC? I've never used one, but I've heard of people having problems with boost spikes and slow spool ups when using them. I would just ditch the one you got and get a Hallman ball and spring type and never look back. If you don't wanna spend the money, you can either make one, or there's a guy on ebay that makes some decent ones for like 12 bucks shipped. Also, I know the closer the nipple is to the turbo, the better. I have an evoIII and I tapped straight into the j pipe.

Good luck man, hopefully that helps!

 

[Stoneman]

Get a better boost controller. Boost creep costed me an engine.

 

[DAO 1950]

I can add a bit to this, Stock head bolts are a socket head and use a 10mm allen to turn them. The ARPs are a stud and have 14mm 12 point nuts on them. You will see some of the thread protruding above the nut. About your afpr, the base fuel pressure on a 1g is supposed to be 38 psi ( I believe that's right ). You need to remove the vacuum/boost line off the afpr and adjust that pressure down at idle.

 

[Turboturd]

Stock fuel pressure on a 2g should be 42.6 when read with the vacuum nipple off at idle. Set yours at that point to begin with.

And get rid of the zip ties on your vacuum lines and go with small worm clamps if you can, the zip ties will become brittle and break over time and they are hard to get really tight sometimes. What brand of boost controller are you using? Some of the really cheap ones don't function properly and you will see boost creep

And if I remember correctly, the 2g head bolts are different than the 1g, the ones I removed from a junkyard car were 12 point 12mm hex

 

[Bud92gsx]

As for boost creep.Youll have that on that turbo.This should help http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...oler/186525-how-cure-boost-creep-porting.html

The car is a 1g 5 speed.The fuel pressure Should be 37/38 psi.

 

[eclitz88]

Thanks for the replies to this. I just know figured out how to change the info to make it say the I now have a 1995 eclipse GSX. For that I am sorry everyone had gotten confused.

Last night I finished up with the wide band. I just ran the simulator for the narrow with-in the MXT-L for now. I plan on just getting the boost controller for ECM link if they are good in adjust-ability the price. What do you guys think?

I have to say the car is running good but this boost controller has go to go soon. I have adjusted the FPR to spec 42.6 range/ with vac line off. My Vac for the FPR is running straight to the intake mani/ boosted gauge is T'd off of that

I have a DW200 fuel pump that I am installing tonight, this should help with my car running LEAN while boosting (AFR I've seen 9%-11%) at 8-10psi. Fuel pressure goes to about 60psi at 8-10psi. Boost creeps up to 18psi so I've been keeping on it and taking it easy.

The boost controller is very cheep, not ball and spring and i had it adjusted all the way (-)

Well its time to get to work on this fuel pump and a little bit of trimming for the 2gb bumper

 

[Bud92gsx]

2g turbo is 43 yessir.

How are you adjusting fuel pressure?

Only crept to 18..

 

[AK Maniak]

2g turbo is 43 yessir.

How are you adjusting fuel pressure?

Only crept to 18..

43.5 is fuel pressure.

18psi or not, we all have to start somewhere bud

 

[Bud92gsx]

43.5

I meant it only crept to 18..Hes getting lucky..My ebay e3 crept to 22 +.My small 16g crept to ya 22+ too.

 

[eclitz88]

Well last night I got the new fuel pump in.
I am adjusting my aftermarket FPR with the vac line off to 43.5 psi.
I think I'm going to buy ecm link v3 lite this week. Should I get the boost controller through link our just get a Manuel one?
And also does link provide a Turbo timer? That's another thing I'd like to get soon.
Thanks everybody!

 

[untouchablecc]

No ecmlink does not provide a turbo timer. It would be cool if it did though haha. The boost control is more preference I think. I like the manual one. Ive use the boost by gear set up in dsmlink and the IR 3 port switch they sell for boost control. On board boost control was cool but I think I ended up burning up that part on the ecu. So i just stuck with the manual one.

 

[eclitz88]

Damn, it was worth a shot ha
Im going to order a mbc tonight, either a blox our hallman. Hallman is like 9 bucks more on Amazon.
I want to get a new timing belt also. Was told that I have a balance shaft elimination kit, but have never checked it out. How do I tell? What's the
Best belt to get?

 

[Phantom DSM]

Damn, it was worth a shot ha
Im going to order a mbc tonight, either a blox our hallman. Hallman is like 9 bucks more on Amazon.
I want to get a new timing belt also. Was told that I have a balance shaft elimination kit, but have never checked it out. How do I tell? What's the
Best belt to get?

Hallman Pro is a much better MBC. They usually go for around 80. Hers a link EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
They also have timing kits or separated EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts a timing belt kit, i recommend OEM, or gates timing belt. If you remove the timing cover on side of motor, you can see if it has the smaller balance shaft belt, looks like this

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[Bud92gsx]

Damn, it was worth a shot ha
Im going to order a mbc tonight.
I want to get a new timing belt also. What's the
Best belt to get?

Hallman would get my vote for the BC.

As stated gates and oem are both great belts.If you want to do a purple theme under the hood you can go with the purple hks belt.

Add New timing belt tensioner to your list with the t belt..Unless our vendors still carry the gates tensioner, I know you cant get the gates one at your local auto parts store, even on special order,cause they Must be discontinued.

 

[eclitz88]

Alright every one its been a while since I've posted. Thanks for the replies.
I have everything installed. mbc holds 9psi but then spikes. So im buying a boost leak tester, ecm link v3 and socket service, new gates timing belt, and the injectors will have to wait a couple pay checks. Going to get 1000cc so im only buying them once.

I was also thinking about a punishment racing o2 open dump housing or the recirculating? What do you guys think?