New Evo 16g install issues, fuel cut ect..

[NHerron]

Do you have a part number for that EVO return line? I looked around and couldn't tell if anyone has used that line before. Most use the DSM 2G return or the 1G return. The 2G is cheaper/better than the 1G though.

Man that sounds like they gave you the 1G intake manifold gasket! I bet that thing was slow haha, good thing you found it though.

 

[KrazyRob]

I bought a 7 bolt block a few months ago from this guy for $50.. it had forged pistons, new rings and ARP hardware he cracked his head and just decided to junk the whole car . I needed the block for my 95 gst that spun a bearing.. anyhow he just started throwing in all these random parts like intake manifold, radiator, A/C compressor, alternator, sunroof parts, and the last thing was a oil return line and i remember him saying the line was used to run an EVO turbo. I dont know much more about it but it fits.. its alittle smaller in diameter than the stock 2g line but the head of it fits the evo.. might be a 1g i dont know... dont see a part number.. looks like a factory mitsubishi part...

 

[KrazyRob]

Ok im rockin and rollin... got my car on the road finally and yes the fuel cut is gone! Thank you for the advice on hooking up the wastegate... as far as boost leaks ! They were everywhere the new intake gasket held fibe but ALL my silicon couplings and hoses were leaking bad. I fixed those but now my throttle body is leaking around the shaft where the throttle cable hooks to.. you can rock it back n forth and hear the leak get worse.. can that be fixed while installed on the car? I might have other leaks internally too as the pressure bleeds down pretty fast but i dont hear any other hissing.. but then again the car was cold and no oil was circulated through the motor when i did the the test.. maybe it will hold better pressure when the engine is warm..

 

[NHerron]

Throttle body needs to come off and might as well have it completely rebuilt if going to the trouble of replacing shaft seals

I hear throttlebodys.com is a very good place but I'm sure you could rebuild DIY or just pop one off a car at the junkyard. I like random junk parts and ended up paying $35 for a backup throttle body

Try setting the engine to 30* ATDC so that way the valves won't be in overlap. Otherwise, air may leak out of the exhaust.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/321580-how-set-motor-30-atdc.html

30* ATDC would be about 2 inches counter-clockwise from the mark in the crank pulley, lined up to the 0* mark on the plastic cover.

 

[KrazyRob]

Thanks i will try that.... Ok so I have put 60 miles on the car since my last post and I had a few problems come up already...

1. I get fuel cut every so often around 6k rpm, its very brief, but not nearly as bad as before with out the wastegate working..

2. After driving my car on the freeway with the AC on and 103 degrees outside I came home and pulled into my driveway and sat in the car with the AC on for about 5 minutes and I noticed the temp gauge go up to about 3/4 of the way, my fans were on and i noticed some bubbles in the overflow bottle coming up after I shut the car off, it was not overflowing though.. I drove the car the next 2 days and it never got warm like that again maybe there was not enough air circulation under the hood when i was just sitting, probably doesnt help that I dont have a heat shield in front of my o2 housing..

3. Im getting a CEL and code PO300 which is a multiple random misfire code, thing is that i was getting this code with my old mods set up also.. I used to have a GM MAF and MAF Translator that i thought might be throwing this code but now Im running the stock MAF, and Injectors and a different turbo set up and im still getting this code.. Any ideas? ECU?

 

[NHerron]

Have you fixed the boost leaks? With boost leaks, the turbo works harder and draws more airflow to overcome the boost leak if it's big enough. So you draw x amount of air but the full amount of x doesn't make it through the system and some of it's wasted. If the MAF still thinks the full amount of x is getting there, but it's not, the turbo will keep making more and more boost the overcome the leak

Ah the cooling system. That sounds like a bad radiator cap, which I just experienced yesterday. At idle my car overheated and coolant was bubbling out the cap. But when I took off, the temp would lower almost instantly. Parked it to let it completely cool down, and when it did, the water was about half a gallon low. I filled it up, left the cap off, started it and watched (from a foot or so away) to look for the sign of a blown HG, looking for volcano type bubbling from the thermostat housing. No bubbling just a good even flow, so pretty satisfied it was not the HG. Well replaced cap and no more problems. Look around the net for symptoms of a bad cap.

If the level is low, now would be a good time to give it a flush. Just open up the petcock/drain on the bottom of radiator, and drain out the radiator. This dumps about 1.2gallons total. Close up the drain, dump in a thing of "Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner", and top it off with a gallon of distilled water. Make sure the overflow is level as well. Cruise around for a few days, and check the level every time it's cooled off by pulling off the radiator cap. Now drain the radiator again and fill up with distilled water again. Cruise a few times and dump again. This time filling up, add some coolant. Considering your in Cali, I would mix in 0.6gallons of coolant to the rest distilled water (basically making the system around 30%coolant to 70%water)

Air ducting is good too since you have a FMIC. I used some 3/4" pipe insulation but sheet metal looks better haha. Try to get it where you can get a sheet of paper to suck up with the fans on

No idea on the code, assuming it's the correct cam/crank sensors anyway. Is it the stock cam crank sensors, or did you wire in the 1G cam sensor?