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New Battery And Alternator And Still Now Power

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prophecy7115

15+ Year Contributor
345
4
Apr 23, 2005
Miami, Florida
OK i am interested in knowing how many volts the battery should have when the car is off? and the same with the car on and the same with the car on with all the accessories on with it (a/c lights radio and wiper).

Does this sound right?
car off-11.89 (measured right after the car was turned of might have changed after time).
car on -12.30
car on with everything else on - 11.96 (might vary did it once like this.)

My alternator started going, so i bought a new one, and then my battery went? my car needed to get jumped everywere i went, but stayed on once it was on, till i turned it off. So now i bought a new battery with new alternator but the car feels kind of weak. Or it could just be me, but I remember the car starting up with power and fast but now it stills starts but feels weaker :confused:
 
For most cars its 12vs off and 14 to 14.5v on.... Your off seems right, but on seems low.
 
I know the alternator was tested and put out 13.5 volts before it was givin to me it was brand new???? I really hope i dont have to go and search every ground and for corrosion or somthing like that.
 
What sucks about them testing it at the store is that most testers check voltage output under NO load. When its checked in your car its checked under load. Mine is doing the same thing. Damn thing puts out 13.4 volts with only the car on but drops to 12.1 or a little lower with lights, AC, and system on fairly loud. Had to jump her twice already in the last 2 months. Maybe i'll get a higher output alternator when this one goes or maybe its already just too damn old to function as it should, or maybe i'm running too much into it and the battery is dying and i'm blaming the alternator. It sat in the Hatch for about three months.
 
Ok now i am pissed i put a new alternator and battery and it only worked for about 12 start ups now every time i try to start it, it wont start, i need to jump it, and when i do jump it it starts right up in a heart beat without a problem??????? All i have done right about when this started happening, 20g turbo install, and the alternator change and thats it what can this be?
 
Also something i found weird, i went threw thew the B.K drive threw (hungry girlfriend) and i knew if i turned my car of the battery would die so i left it idling, Then it started getting hot so i put the windows up and turned the A/C on, the car idled for about 5 minutes then i decided to turn my lights off and when i did the car went crazy the3 idle started dieing and then i tried reving it and giving it gas, and then i sustained i the rev at 4k, and then i let of but no matter what i tried the car just died. I had to jump it with my friends car what can be wrong? After jumping the car drove home perfect. Lights seemes a little dim but thats all.
 
First check if the alternator 100A fusable link is blown. Then remove battery cables and clean (sandpaper) both ends and where they attach to and then reconnect them tightly. Then check for a power drain: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179481.

If all this ok suspect the battery or alternator. If the voltage on the battery is above 13.9V when engine is above idle (2500 rpm), it means the alternator is putting out but the battery is not holding the charge - so bad battery. If below 13.9V (or even below 12.5), the alternator is not putting out - so bad alternator (or blown alternator 80/100 amp fusible link). That is one case. Another possible case of being below 13.9V, however, is when the battery has a short (or dead cell) within it (or there is a short elsewhere) which causes the alternator to put out max current but because of the short, the voltage drops - so bad battery (and alternator is actually ok). This is the case when if you now turn the engine off and the headlights on, they are dim and battery voltage is below 10.5V. When everything is running properly you should have around 14.4v on the battery at 2500 rpm.
 
one thing that can affect the battery (most of you guys already know it but i'm just actin smart here LOL is the heat from the engine and turning on the loud-ass system while the car is off...
 
Ok the i havent checked the fuse.The battery is brans new and so is the alternator and the same exact thing is happining befrore they went bad, And somtimes it starts right after a drive and somtimes it wont. After 15min of the car is of it wont start.

While idleing low 12 volts with everything on low 12 volts as well and car off high 11 volts. Bran new everything (day old) except starter. Could this be my fuse?

luv2rallye~ I know you are good at electrical problems i seen your threads you think that the fuse can cause this? i also got new neg and pos plugs for the battery. Once i jump the car the car drives good untill i reach my destination once i turn it off the car wont start. :confused:
 
i'm kinda new to DSMs but i do know my share about electrical, in my mustang this used to be a common problem, check allyour fuses inlcucing fuselinks, and the voltage regualtor inside the alternator if everything is alright take it to alocal shop and tell them to test the batt inside the car, we do it all the the time we hook it up to the tester and run it with the car off/on with the accessories on/off it's only like $5
 
Also in, this morning i right before going to work i went out to the car and there was power very little then i went to turn the key and i swore i heard rapidly clicks about 10 in 2 seconds inside the cockpit??? It didnt do it anymore, and all the dash light were very dim and when i turned on the car lights all the power would go away?
 
Yes i get that but does that come from the radio area? (ecu :cry: ??) or does it come from the engine compartment? I checked the fuse for a sec i had to go to work but it looked good. The metal piece inside was still intact and not broken anywere, is this how its checked?
 
Any help? symptoms Low charge when driving and battery wont keep charge the second i turn it off it wont start.

New batery
new alternator
new terminals for the battery
new copper conectors for the end of the ground wire to the battery and for the possitive as well.???? :confused: :confused:
 
prophecy7115 said:
Yes i get that but does that come from the radio area? (ecu :cry: ??) or does it come from the engine compartment? I checked the fuse for a sec i had to go to work but it looked good. The metal piece inside was still intact and not broken anywere, is this how its checked?
The clicking is the starter relay which is behind the radio on your car.

You can't tell a fuse is good by looking at it (unless it's obviously broken). See here for proper way to test a fuse (Fuse testing without removal): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179914
 
I'd check all your grounds. Also take a voltage meter after charging the battery and see if it's lowing voltage just sitting. Then turn it on and see if it's still getting lower just idling. If it does something is draining your battery, then try to find the source that's drainin it. My old car had this sorta problem. Would drain the battery, I cleaned and tightened all the grounds and put in a new battery. I had changed it 4 times before I got a good one. We just had some laying around that we thought were good but turned out they weren't...
 
supravw said:
I'd check all your grounds. Also take a voltage meter after charging the battery and see if it's lowing voltage just sitting. Then turn it on and see if it's still getting lower just idling. If it does something is draining your battery, then try to find the source that's drainin it
I agree. See my post #7 on how to test for battery drain. Also keep in mind you wouldn't be the first one who got a bad "new" battery or alternator from a store. Also they must be tested under a load to have any meaning. Just like AA batteries open circuit voltage means nothing.
 
well yous can relax your ecu is under the hood
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and as for the starter relay it sounds like you might want to check if it works here's where it's located
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if you don't know how to test a relay let me know and i'll port some instructions
 
luv2rallye said:
The clicking is the starter relay which is behind the radio on your car.

You can't tell a fuse is good by looking at it (unless it's obviously broken). See here for proper way to test a fuse (Fuse testing without removal): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179914
to add to that........could be a hot wire grounding out somewhere. On a talon I was working on,the starter kept smoking when it was started,thought it was a bad starter so we changed it. After the change the starter was still getting VERY hot and the battery was still not holding a charge.......turned out a wire was grounding out.
Mike :talon:
 
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