Never ending clutch problem

[Evilimports]

Did an auto swap, installed a new clutch master, slave and & a ss clutch line. Could not get a good clutch peddle so I extended the master and slave rods just to get a drivable peddle ( @ bottom of throw), however when shifting to reverse it would grind telling me the clutch is not fully disengaged.

Today I installed a new clutch master & slave. Did the recommended bleed procedure, plus a few extra tricks and Its the same exact problem I had before. Also with the clutch master rod fully screwed out I can still push the slave cylinder in. Any suggestions?

 

[rock1t]

i had the same problem.

but mine was all about the master cylinder being wrong. thanks advance auto parts (i was working their at the time) and took me ordering multiples in till we got what was supposed to be in the box..

 

[chanley talon]

I have seen the shifter cables cause these problems on grinding. But not having pedal pressure has got to be in the clutch fork and pivot ball or the slave cylinder.

 

[Evilimports]

Its a new clutch fork & pivot ball. Also, its an act 2600 clutch. Would removing that cylinder thing on front of the trans be causing these low peddle situations? The SS clutch line is made to run from the master directly to the slave but maybe thats a bad configuration for our transmissions.

 

[rock1t]

Its a new clutch fork & pivot ball. Also, its an act 2600 clutch. Would removing that cylinder thing on front of the trans be causing these low peddle situations? The SS clutch line is made to run from the master directly to the slave but maybe thats a bad configuration for our transmissions.

how is that a bad configuration? there should be no pit stops between your master and your slave cylinder. Less connections the better.

 

[Evilimports]

Just trying to brain storm. It seems like a lot of people have problems when something is changed in the clutch system.

 

[92 GSR-4]

Did you shim your pivot ball?

How is your clutch step height? With a 2600 the step should be around .608" - .610"

The pivot ball and especially the clutch step height will make or break your disengagement. I will never install a flywheel before measuring the step due to problems I've had in the past. Hope this helps.

Check out these links, they should help you out:

Frequently Asked Questions

Check out the step height and pivot ball shim links.

 

[Evilimports]

I did not shim the pivot ball when i installed the transmission because at that point I didn't know about it. I did not check the step height either, however a local reputable machine shop did the work, not that this means its correct. I understand that these both can have huge effects on engagement but wouldn't the clutch pedal still have a good feel? I guess now I'm trying to find out weather its in the clutch assembly or in the hydraulic assembly.

 

[Evilimports]

Broke down and bought an OEM master and nothing really change, although the OEM master has more than enough push rod to adjust the pedal properly. So after vacuum bleeding and still getting nowhere I thought of something; If you open the bleeder after the pedal has been depressed ( like you are suppose to on everything else) any air would compress at the front of the slave, not allowing it to properly bleed. YES I know about purging the slave but that never worked well for me after the first time. So I opened the bleeder and had my lovely wife step on the clutch and viola, purged aerated fluid a few times and got a better pedal than I had with an extended slave rod.

 

[92 GSR-4]

Congrats! Glad to see it was a simple fix. Happy boosting!