need some help pics included

[1g8420a]

I have a 97 gs most guys will remember my recent "engine review" I am have a high idle issue I have researched my issue on both 2gnt and here I have a nasty idle issue that seems to persist.. I have deleted my egr. and, have the block off plates installed and covered the egr vacuum nipple. my idle is at 2k rpm and gets higher as the car warms up in 5th gear my car will drive it's self like its on cruise. I bought 3 new IAC's because the car was throwing a code for IAC. now I am running the "asjustable" IAC from modern performance. that helps a little. I think I have my vacuum messed up a bit and notice the end of the fuel rail has no cap on it.. Please help maybe you guys can spot it I know for a fact I have the cruise control vacuum right the one on the left is in ?? the hard line that goes across the valve cover dose that go to the line with the nipples off of it or am I wrong the other would be where dose the one from the throttle body hook up.

The only other thing I can think of is air in the coolant. If so how do you bleed air out of the coolant system?

 

[glowryder]

Air in the cooling system will not cause a high idle.

Have you checked the plastic vac line on the TB? those crack easy and are hard to see.

It doesnt matter where those lines are hooked up really.. You have a vac leak.
Check also that "T" in pic 1, looks like you have electrical tape fixing a potential issue.

the missing cap shouldn't be an issue. if everything is hooked up to the Intake manifold, you should be good.

Is your TB at idle actually sitting on the throttle stop? just wondering if you tightened down the cable wrong, making the plate stick open.

 

[rough]

Was this issue present before the EGR blockoff?
Could be a vacuum leak, get some starter fluid spray
spray the vacuum lines with the fluid, if the engine surges, you know you where your leak is.
Have you tried to pull codes?
I've been a member of 2gnt for a while, site is slowly becoming vacated

 

[2gnt]

Have you checked the plastic vac line on the TB? those crack easy and are hard to see.

It doesnt matter where those lines are hooked up really.. You have a vac leak.
Check also that "T" in pic 1, looks like you have electrical tape fixing a potential issue.

the missing cap shouldn't be an issue. if everything is hooked up to the Intake manifold, you should be good.

Is your TB at idle actually sitting on the throttle stop? just wondering if you tightened down the cable wrong, making the plate stick open.

^This
Also, the end of the fuel rail shouldn't be a problem if the valve is still in place.

 

[1g8420a]

^This
Also, the end of the fuel rail shouldn't be a problem if the valve is still in place.[/QUOTE


Not Quite sure what valve you are referring to.

 

[glowryder]

theres a little sharader valve in there. if fuel inst coming out of the port, its in there. it would also have nothing to do with your vac issues.

 

[1g8420a]

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/GMyFa7b9fLk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The 2 Engine codes are for IAC and EGR. (the IAC I have replaced numorious times, I now have the modern performance Adjustable one)

 

[islandertalon]

I agree with glowryder, check that the throttle is fully closing and fix/see whats up with the electrical tape.

If that doesn't pan out:

-check the gasket on the manifold where the egr is suppose to connect.

-Could be carbon build up causing the IAC to not block the correct amount of air or keeping the throttle plate open a hair.

-try disconnecting lines one at a time and plugging/capping the nipple to see if it gets better. If it does you know where to look. This will help you rule out the hard line going to the evap canister.

-A boost leak tester would make it fairly easy to pin point a vacuum leak

Fuel regulator is attached to the fuel filter (well connected to a fitting thats connected to the filter), which is on the passenger side by the fuel tank. There is a vacuum line that goes to the back of the car but I believe it is for the vent valve on the tank (its been a while since I've looked back there so I could be wrong).

Are the Throttle body and manifold gaskets new?

 

[bullettdsm]

I agree with glowryder, check that the throttle is fully closing and fix/see whats up with the electrical tape.

If that doesn't pan out:

-check the gasket on the manifold where the egr is suppose to connect.

-Could be carbon build up causing the IAC to not block the correct amount of air or keeping the throttle plate open a hair.

-try disconnecting lines one at a time and plugging/capping the nipple to see if it gets better. If it does you know where to look. This will help you rule out the hard line going to the evap canister.

-A boost leak tester would make it fairly easy to pin point a vacuum leak

Fuel regulator is attached to the fuel filter (well connected to a fitting thats connected to the filter), which is on the passenger side by the fuel tank. There is a vacuum line that goes to the back of the car but I believe it is for the vent valve on the tank (its been a while since I've looked back there so I could be wrong).

Are the Throttle body and manifold gaskets new?

ALL of this^^

I'm stuck on the idea of throwing an IAC code. Tells me something may be going on there. You may want to take the throttle body off and clean it out (making sure that the IAC channel is clean). Also be sure the seal is good between the throttle body and the intake manifold.

Be absolutely sure the egr block off on the intake is not leaking. Spray carb and choke directly on the block-off (get real close to anything you to spray. No need to mist anything. Spray directly on any line or component).

I strongly recommend a blt (boost leak test) for checking vac leaks. Check around on here or Google on how to make one cheap (or you can buy one). They are good to have.

MB

Edit: Wait a sec.I just went through the whole vid and at 49 seconds you mention the FPR line. The fuel pressure regulators actual location is by the rear passenger side tire. Vac is fed by a line that runs up out of the firewall. If you look behind the alternator, coming out of the firewall (low on the firewall) you will see a hardline with a vac hose coming off of it. Be sure that this line gets vac. This is the only line that must be hooked up. You can block off the others for testing/identification purposes. Also, where is the hardline that is directly off the throttle body going to? (I presume the one blocked off nipple was to your egr)

 

[1g8420a]

ALL of this^^

I'm stuck on the idea of throwing an IAC code. Tells me something may be going on there. You may want to take the throttle body off and clean it out (making sure that the IAC channel is clean). Also be sure the seal is good between the throttle body and the intake manifold.

Be absolutely sure the egr block off on the intake is not leaking. Spray carb and choke directly on the block-off (get real close to anything you to spray. No need to mist anything. Spray directly on any line or component).

I strongly recommend a blt (boost leak test) for checking vac leaks. Check around on here or Google on how to make one cheap (or you can buy one). They are good to have.

MB

Edit: Wait a sec.I just went through the whole vid and at 49 seconds you mention the FPR line. The fuel pressure regulators actual location is by the rear passenger side tire. Vac is fed by a line that runs up out of the firewall. If you look behind the alternator, coming out of the firewall (low on the firewall) you will see a hardline with a vac hose coming off of it. Be sure that this line gets vac. This is the only line that must be hooked up. You can block off the others for testing/identification purposes. Also, where is the hardline that is directly off the throttle body going to? (I presume the one blocked off nipple was to your egr)

The Nipple I blocked off is for the egr. The Line off of the TB is going to a hard line near the passenger motor mount and alternator on the frame.(The hard line looks like it goes with HVAC of the car) I am not so sure where that one is designed to go. As far as the EGR block off I will spray that today. The gasket between, the TB and the Manifold is brand new and the TB is clean as well as the IAC channel. will post a few pics of that today.

It had to do with my crankcase ventilation on the IM my neighbor ran a boost leak tester on all my vacuum and found that since I ran a breather he said its pulling fresh air or something like that car is no longer throwing and IAC code.

 

[bullettdsm]

It had to do with my crankcase ventilation on the IM my neighbor ran a boost leak tester on all my vacuum and found that since I ran a breather he said its pulling fresh air or something like that car is no longer throwing and IAC code.

? Did you hook it up to the inlet for the pcv maybe?

But more importantly;

Sooooo, are you saying you found your problem and its solved?

 

[1g8420a]

? Did you hook it up to the inlet for the pcv maybe?

But more importantly;

Sooooo, are you saying you found your problem and its solved?

Yes. and my problem was solved and I was able to go back to the OEM IAC.

 

[rough]

Did you remove the breather then?

 

[1g8420a]

Going to run a catch can yes for now the breather is removed

 

[bullettdsm]

Yes. and my problem was solved and I was able to go back to the OEM IAC.

Sweet! Here's hoping you don't see any other problems with your engine.

MB

 

[1g8420a]

Sweet! Here's hoping you don't see any other problems with your engine.

MB

Still have an oil leak on the back side but, I think it's the Valve cover other than that it seem to run decent.

 

[Shiano]

On my 97, that oil leak on the back side ended up being the Oil Sending Unit. Also ended up being $16 at Advance.
Was stoked on the price .
Now my only oil 'leak' is consumption... oi.

I know this is an older thread, but trying to track down my own Vac issue.