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Need serious help with a modified 4G63!!

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V8_Reaper

10+ Year Contributor
34
0
Dec 5, 2011
Maurepas, Louisiana
Ok, let me start off by saying that I've never owned a DSM before. I'm mechanically inclined and very capable of rebuilding motors. I bought a 97 Eclipse Spyder GST with a 5spd. My main issue was the aftermarket alarm had me locked out of the starter so I installed a push button. Now the car runs and drives but it seems like the fuel cuts off when the turbo starts to build pressure. My top speed os approximately 75mph right now and I think I have good reason to be unhappy with that. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated
 
A few questions.

1. Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge?
2. How "modified" is it?
3. Have you done a boost leak test?
4. Does it buck on you, or does it spit and sputter when you go wot?
 
Check all clamps on your turbo and intake piping, also hoses for possible leaks. Then i would get a manual boost controller and turn your boost down because you're probably over running your stock fuel system.
 
Then i would get a manual boost controller and turn your boost down because you're probably over running your stock fuel system.

You cannot use an MBC to drop below WG pressure. Please make sure you know what you're posting...
 
I'm not 100% sure on all the mods but here goes:
4g63t motor Hahn racecraft turbo
Frontmount innercooler
Hks heads
Ive tried a new BOV no luck
I bought and installed a AEM TRU BOOST gauge it starts to sputter @ approximately 0-2 psi when you try to get it to go wot it bucks then spits as for how modified I was
Told that the motor was fully rebuilt with aftermarket rods crank and pistons

Also it only does it under load!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Does anyone know how to upload a picture from an iPhone 4?

Unfortunately all the info I have is from the guy I bought it
From who is difficult to get ahold of now
 
I know what i'm posting, i had the same problem on my 92. Had to control the boost because it was creeping.
 
Hahn 20g?
Ive never heard of HKS heads!
HKS cam shafts possibly, if so.. 272's, 280's?
Have you done a boost leak test?


I know what i'm posting, i had the same problem on my 92. Had to control the boost because it was creeping.

I will side with lando on this one!
There is no way to turn boost down further than what the waste will allow, unless you unhook the actuator arm(if internally wastegated).
Or if you never had the vacuum/boost line hooked up to the wastegate! This would cause spiking and peaking beyond stock psi and placing a MBC would help, but so would attaching the vacuum/boost line to the wastegate.
 
Ok as soon as I get it back from the shop I will try to perform one. I sent it to a shop because I am literally at wits end with this car and was ready to unload some 230 grain .45 JHP into it
 
Should have pushed it harder on the test drive... One thing that usually comes around to bite people in the ass. Its a double edged sword, you look like a jackass to be 100% sure of the problems the car has.

Does it run rough while out of boost (ie, at vaccum, at idle etc?) Seems like if you had a bad boost leak, you would be a little rough at vacuum too ( a wandering vacuum where car goes too high and then sputters down) where is your idle?

Do you know what injectors the "built engine" has? fuel pump? TUNING METHOD? (especially if non-factory fueling parts have been added, since a non-factory air adder has been already added)

you mod list, minus the turbo and anything you left out doesnt really add up.

"Built motor"- Check what you can without dissassembly, start from easy to hard, like plugs, injectors, air filter etc... then timing...etc. You may just have to take it apart unless you can find other mods.
FMIC- no effect, maybe more lag, maybe not. Not significant.
HKS heads- Unless installed poorly, I dont think a new head is gonna affect much. Its not like it changes anything, just creates more efficiency.
BOV shouldnt change much unless the old one was broken/leaking.
Tru Boost- did it even have a boost gauge before (non factory one)?

You just dont have enough info.

Pics would help,
a little more investigation would help.

Anyway, my bet is your cars computer, doesnt like what it is seeing. engine rebuild > engine management? :ohdamn: Previous owner was a probably a ****.

We dont know what built means. we can only assume you mean not stock, and you dont even seem entirely sure on that statement.
 
I wasn't amble to drive the car till after I got it home because of the aftermarket alarm. I know it was a bad idea but at the time it didn't seem like one. I'll post as much information as I can as soon as I get it back and I'm going to try to badger the previous owner and see what I can turn up there. Thank you all for your time and wisdom and sorry for the noob info/post

It purrs smooth as a kitten when under vacuum it's when the boost starts to pick up that it craps out and by craps out I mean refuses to accelerate
 
I wasn't amble to drive the car till after I got it home because of the aftermarket alarm. I know it was a bad idea but at the time it didn't seem like one. I'll post as much information as I can as soon as I get it back and I'm going to try to badger the previous owner and see what I can turn up there. Thank you all for your time and wisdom and sorry for the noob info/post

It purrs smooth as a kitten when under vacuum it's when the boost starts to pick up that it craps out and by craps out I mean refuses to accelerate

Screw the previews owner and post pictures.
We can tell you better info than the previews owner that sold you a car like that.
 
I'm going to pick the car up from the shop tomorrow and when I do I'll try to upload as many pictures as I can as soon as I can get on a pc
 
take this for what its worth but it sounds like you have a loose coupler in your intercooler piping (if you have said mod). same thing happened to me earlier today kinda. i was test driving my car and one of the couplers let go and it sputtered as soon as it made boost and died. i slipped it back on and as long as i didnt get into boost pressure i could drive it home to fix the coupler. so definitely run a boost leak test. they are fairly easy to make from stuff found at home depot or lowes or someplace along those lines. hope this helps. again, im no pro, but i thought i would share my experience today to see if it helps. good luck
 
Ok so I have the car back from the shop thanks to the new clutch in my jeep failing on me. Regardless, what kind of pictures would help with narrowing down my current issues? I figured I would need a few of the engine bay and what not but I want to make sure I'm not posting a bunch of irrelevant pictures

photo1.jpg picture by V8_Reaper - Photobucket
thats a general over the top shot
 
To me it looks like your blow off valve isn't recirculated and your air filter is not connected to the mas. I would start with that and see if it helps
 
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