Need OEM rebuilt kit options/pricing

[HatchFiend]

Hey Everyone!

I want to rebuild the bottom end of my engine just to be on the safer side of things. The previous owner said that he rebuilt the head, so I'd like to do the same to the bottom end. I found a rebuild kit for a decent price (at least what I think it is) and would like to know some of your thoughts, or maybe some other options. Don't want to go too crazy on the price. Thanks everyone!

Rebuild Kit

 

[BogusSVO]

Depends on what brands you get fort that price.

What do you need? Do you know yet? Have you tore the engine down and inspected?

 

[BogusSVO]

Depends on what brands you get fort that price.

What do you need? Do you know yet? Have you tore the engine down and inspected?

 

[HatchFiend]

I haven't torn it down and inspected it yet. I can't really have the car down for too terribly long and I don't want to tear it down, inspect it, replace headgasket and other gaskets, put it back together, order parts, tear it down again, replace everything, put it back together.

I think if I get that complete engine rebuild kit on that website it would be good, or even go for the second one I should probably be okay. I just don't know if those are good quality or not.

To give you a budget idea, I'm looking for $300-$400 for parts.

 

[bryanwheat]

There is no mention of brands of these parts. I would stay away from it without knowing what brand the parts are. Like already stated you need to pull the engine out and get it torn down before you order your parts. That is how it needs to be done. You have no idea whether the block needs to be bored, or if the crank needs to be turned and so on. If i were you i would check the compression of the bottom end. If it is good i would replace a few gaskets, new water pump, new timing components and run it.

 

[HatchFiend]

Well the car runs pretty good and I had planned on taking it to a machine shop to have things checked out before I put them back into the car. I would just like to find some good kits instead of piecing it together and running into more of a financial loss than I was planning.

On a side note I have been having an issue with the car sometimes on start up (almost seems like after I've driven it and it's warmed up) it initially idles at 5-600 RPM's. After I let it sit and let the RPM's come back up it idles at its usual 1-1.1k.. any ideas? My friend said it might be the throttle position sensor, but it's not like it fluctuates, nor does it do it all the time.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do a boost leak test, could be a bad isc, leaks, check the throttle cable for sticking, throttle body could have some bad shaft seals too.

 

[HatchFiend]

Excuse my ignorance on this, I'm not very good with car parts and abbreviations, 'isc'?

I'll definitely see if I can get these things checked out. I know the throttle itself is pretty sticky/touchy which really sucks going through a parking lot.. jolts the car every time.

 

[92AWDHX40]

idle speed control motor.

 

[HatchFiend]

Ahhh, okay... would any of these throw a CEL? That's what puzzles me most... is that there's no CEL on.

 

[HatchFiend]

Okay, so I'm looking into pistons right now.... after doing some research it seems as though npr is a pretty good brand. What about bearings? Any good gasket sets? Head gasket? I already have arp head studs so I don't need to replace those.

 

[BogusSVO]

NPR Pistons and rings will be fine

I like and use King bearings in most builds.

FelPro 9627PT composite HG

The rest of the gaskets I use EngineTech.

A new set of valve springs is good if you have a high mileage head.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

NPR Pistons and rings will be fine

I like and use King bearings in most builds.

FelPro 9627PT composite HG

The rest of the gaskets I use EngineTech.

A new set of valve springs is good if you have a high mileage head.

head is newly rebuilt.

 

[BogusSVO]

Yes, By the PO, think he check the valve spring pressures?

 

[mercaholik]

You know bogus is right,, and I love how you always tell everyone to check and replace their valve springs. I think this maybe the reason one of my #2 intake valve rocker arms popped off, causing a strange studder at 550

 

[HatchFiend]

Bogus has been a wonderful help. So far he's the only one that's told me what I should need in order to rebuild my bottom end. And once we tear down the engine I know we'll look over everything to make sure that it's all done right. I don't want to do all of this work for nothing. For now, reliability and later on... powerhouse!

 

[2slow4now]

I can agree with the expertise that Bogus offers. You should check out his how to's.

On the shop doing the work make sure they have done 4g63's before. A local what I call "a V8 performance shop" is a very well known quality shop but when it came to my stuff they looked at it like it was a strange sort of bug. I literally had to hold their hand and tell them every spec and how it should be done. I have also seen threads on guys taking their cars to shops that haven't worked on these and got crappy work. Yep Bogus fixing another shops mistake. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...correction-machining-belt-surfaced-block.html

I think the big problem comes to most V8 shops look at a 4cyl like I look at a lawnmower engine rebuild. Just pretty much "chuck it together.... ball hone is good enough." "feels ok", "good enough"