Need Help With BOV

[pimpinboudy]

OK i have a crushed 1G stock BOV. It's been great and anyone who reads this and is going to spend a ton a BOV should stop and take another look at the stock 1G BOV. i have a stage 2.5 out of 3 block and stage 2.5 out of 3 head with a 60-1 Turbo. I'm in need of some opinions on what BOV can handle 26 or 28psi on race gas and 20psi on pump. Mine 1G can't handle the boost levels anymore. It's a LEAKER!! Any help will be greatly Apprieciated

Thanks
James

 

[CanadianTSi]

Tial.

 

[PaleDSM]

If you are still running a mass air system I dont' know what to try. I know that my Greddy Type S holds 26# without a problem but i haven't tested it higher.

If you don't have to recirculate then the Tial is the way to go IMO.

 

[ITSME4G63]

hks ssq, nuff said

 

[pimpinboudy]

I heard the HKS SSQ is a little leaky and it fludders a lot. my local DSM shop told me to stay away from that one...... although if you have one and it works fine then maybe they just got some bad ones. who know's?

 

[ITSME4G63]

I heard the HKS SSQ is a little leaky and it fludders a lot. my local DSM shop told me to stay away from that one...... although if you have one and it works fine then maybe they just got some bad ones. who know's?

hks is a good bov, regardless, what does that shop that told you that advertise, what bov do they sell? Tial? WEll, you can see why they don't want you to buy a hks ssq.

 

[Lunch_Box]

Tial, you will never need to upgrade again.

 

[blaster1812]

Tial.

 

[99gst_racer]

Most any BOV can work. All you got to do is shim it. Throw a couple washers under the spring and you'll get past 28PSI with it. I've had my GReddy TypeS up to 24-25 and it was fine. I'll bet a TypeS with a washer or two, will go past 30. But, I've also heard good things about the Tial.

 

[polarmoment]

for that much boost?
you'd have to fab an adapter for it (which wouldn't be too hard), but try an oem MR2 BOV. they will not leak no matter how much pressure you throw at them because the valve body is actually held shut by boost, not being pushed open by it. you can find em for sale usually for about $30-40. they're actuated entirely by pressure differential so they act faster than most bov's on the market (read: no surge whatsoever).


here's a diagram of how it works:

think of it in terms of vectors.

vector a. is pressure on the valve seat from the charge pipe holding the valve closed.
vector b. is pressure in the lower (left hand) port from the manifold pushing the valve open.
vector c. is pressure in the upper (right hand) port from the manifold holding the valve closed or pulling it open dependent on manifold pressure.

vectors a and b roughly cancel each other out. this leaves valve position dependent entirely on vector c, which will change dependent on whether the engine is in vacuum or boost. the more pressure in the system, the tighter it's held closed.

the VTV (the purple thing connected to the lower port) is a one-way restrictor valve. it allows pressure into the lower port easily, but restricts flow out of the valve. when the manifold tranistions to vacuum, pressure remains momentarily in the lower port while vacuum is immediately present in the upper port. this snaps the valve open immediately.

anyway, i think this would solve your leaking problems adn wouldn't cost much more than a 1g valve. as i said, the only downfall of it is it would require an adapter (i made one for my type S on my 2g using the typeS MR2 adapter plate- which is already part of the oem valve- and a piece of PVC milled out, sealed with RTV and clamped on. adapter would cost about $5 to make).