ECMlink Need help tunning idle.

[UNDISPUTEDDSM]

Thank you in advance guys for any input. So a little back story, I have dealt with DSM's in the past and have used DSMLink/ECMLink to tune. I purchased this car in an attempt to make it a track car, but due to this lovely thing called "Life" and "Kids", things haven't gone according to plan. I now am starting to mess with car and have since put in the ECMLink, FIC 950's (which I had from my previous setup), AFPR and some other basic stuff. I purchased the car with a 20g, intake and exhaust. I am now starting to tune and I'm facing an issue dialing in my idle. I have logged the mid fuel trim, but haven't really messed with setting that up because of such a hard time I'm having with my idle.

So the car idles ok with the exception of an occasional slight backfire (popping noise in exhaust). The entire Throttle Body needs to be rebuilt and TPS adjusted, so I am aware of that issue. I have done a BLT and found only a leak from the TB seals. I haven't gotten to that yet, But I question if that alone would cause that car to run so rich. If I run in open loop, my wideband matches the tables, so I'm assuming the wideband is accurate and functioning. This car wasn't in the best of shape when I purchased it so now I'm at the point where I need to know what to expect. I'm asking for any input on what's going on and if there's is an indication of something I should be concerned about. Is it possible my injectors are to big or stuck open? Thank you guys again for the responses.

Disregard mods list on the bottom.. that was from my old setup and I have not updated my profile

 

[BoostedBeaver]

Filing out the template that was provided for you when starting a new thread in this forum would greatly increase your chances of receiving a reply here. If you need guidance on filling it out, see the below link.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/wa...r-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

You also need to fill out your vehicle profile with your current mods so that we can better assist you.

 

[kmetiuk]

What was the BLT pressure? How "bad" did the TB seals leak?

My TB seals leak a very very small amount at 30 psi....like it will kinda foam instead of bubble and it takes about 5 mins to see any foam build up. At idle the TB seals are basically at -12 to -14 psi so if they leak bad at a BLT pressure above 14 psi you gotta fix em before going forward.

Did you use the Deadtimes that were on the FIC 950's datasheet that came with them?

I cannot over state how important those deadtimes are for setting up the initial global fuel and getting you airflow dialed in properly across the whole RPM and Load band.



Looked at your log and I know what the issue is:
@UNDISPUTEDDSM Your stock front O2 voltage is switching which means you are switching back and forth at 14.7. You are not running rich, your LC-1 is not calibrated properly. When was the last time you calibrated it?

Do the heater calibration and the other calibration while your at it.

As an FYI (as I always forget this on mine) if you unplug the O2 sensor from the innovate harness/box thing and you power up the car (and the box thing) it resets the calibration and gives you weird values. You must do both calibrations if you did this....and honestly I do both calibration everytime i calibrate it at all.



Looking at your MAFComp:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Your adding a shiiit ton of air at idle not sure why yet....need to verify that your LC-1 is calibrated first.

Your Fuel trim table in the DA needs to be reset to stock values. Not sure why you messed with it, there is really no need.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You mos def do not have the deadtimes in there properly....they are still at the values for the stockers. Do you have the datasheet that came with the injectors?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Not sure why your MAFComp is adjusted so high like that as your boostEst and Boost almost match perfectly.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[UNDISPUTEDDSM]

Sorry, I can't believe I missed the bright red letters stating this needed to be posted...
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
I do have a leak from the TB seals. I plan on fixing this soon along with a new TPS.

2). Verified mechanical timing?
Yes
3). Verified base timing?
Yes
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: stock coil
Wire brand and Age: CARQUEST and less then a year old.
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: Ngk bpr6eix @ .28

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:170
Cylinder 2:175
Cylinder 3:175
Cylinder 4:170

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch:
Throttle Cable:
TPS:
BISS:

7). Compression ratio

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
No
9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
rear 02 code.
10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running: 13.3

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure: 43.5
Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 950

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:
Calibration Date:

13). Type of fuel
Type: gas
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? yes

 

[UNDISPUTEDDSM]

@kmetiuk Thanks for the help. I purchased this ECMLink used and I must have completely over looked these values. I will calibrate my WB to verify my MAFComp situation. I will do some research on that process, by any chance, do you have any links or info to assist? As for the DATA SHEET, I don't have it, but i'm sure I can pull it from online. I will search for that as well.

I will reset fuel trims and everything, zero everything out, input the correct data, verify WB calibration and relog.

 

[kmetiuk]

All good man, glad to help.

I like the fuel, air, and idle stuff. It took me a while to figure it out and now I enjoy it and trouble shooting stuff.

@kmetiuk I will say my TB seals leak a significant amount about 14psi. It bubbles like a punctured tire. Can I assume a leak that bad will affect my wideband readings? I'm not sure when the WB was last calibrated. I purchased the car with it about 6-7 months ago and I personally never checked. I assumed being that it would match in open loop that it was calibrated. I will be more then happy to attempt to recalibrate the WB, I will do some research on the proper way as you mentioned. By any chance do you have any links to do this? As for the global and DT, I did youse the recommended settings with the exception of adding a very small amount of DT. Maybe 15 points if I remember correctly.

Ya, a leak that bad will affect the logs and sensors for sure but to what extent I don't know. We'll pick a away at this and fix the main/basic stuff and see where it lands. Your MAFComp might be an indicator that your seals are really bad but we wont know till the WB is calibrated and the injectors are fully dialed in first. Personally I'd order some new seals right away and install them so you can cross that off the list. One less problem. One other thing, when you did the BLT did you check the vac fittings on the BOV and the AFPR and the Brake booster line? The AFPR threads have been known to leak and i perosnally had to put 10-15 wraps of teflon tape on my adjuster screw on my AFPR to get it to seal. Some leak like crazy for some reason.

I can tell from your datalog the LC-1 is not calibrated. You are running the stock front O2 and the LC-1 in the rear O2 as I can see the Front 02 cycling voltage (which means its working properly and you are at around 14.7 at idle).

Here is how your FrontO2 works as the AFR moves back and forth past 14.7: Left axis is volts and bottom is AFR

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Your frontO2 is kind of like a switch. It tells the ECU if it is on one side of 14.7 or the other...back and forth back and forth. As it switches one way the fuel trim adjust fuel to swing it one way, when the "switch" is flipped the other way the fuel trim adjusts to swing it the other way. It just osciallates like that forever (while in closed loop anyways). Your FrontO2 volts is doing this so I know for sure your LC-1 is not reading correct.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Perform the calibration as per innovates website: (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf)
3.1 Heater Calibration
1. Remove the sensor from the exhaust, the sensor needs to be in free air for this procedure.
2. Disconnected the sensor from the LC-1’s sensor connector.
3. Switch 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will flash a two blink sequence with a 2 second pause during this time. Leave the unit powered ON for 20 seconds.
4. Switch the 12V supply off after 20 seconds.
5. Connect the sensor to the LC-1’s sensor interface connector but do not put the sensor in the exhaust. The sensor must be removed from the exhaust and exposed to free air for this calibration.
6. Switch the 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will first blink steady about 2 times/second: indicating that the sensor is warming up. The LED will then start a faster blinking sequence about 4 times/second indicating a Heater calibration. When the Heater Calibration is done the LED will light up and remain solid.
7. While the sensor is still removed from the exhaust perform a free air calibration.

3.2 Free Air Calibration The sensor must be removed from the exhaust and exposed to free air for this calibration.
1. Remove the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and expose it to free air (outside of the exhaust pipe) for calibration purposes. The sensor should be connected to the LC-1.
2. Switch the 12V supply to the LC-1 ON. The LED will first blink steady about 2 times/second indicating that the sensor is warming up. Once the sensor is warmed up the LED will light up and remain solid.
3. After the sensor has warmed up, press the push button for 30 seconds. While you are pressing the button the LED should turn off.
4. Release the button, the LED will light up and remain solid. The free air calibration procedure has occurred, you can now power the LC-1 off and put the sensor in the exhaust.

Do both these calibrations. It actually says to do them every 6 months so your over due for sure hahaha.

 

[UNDISPUTEDDSM]

So I have been away for a few days, and haven't had a whole lot of time to play with the settings. I feel like I have gotten the fuel trims within reason, but still have a high airflow number. I had to combine adjust MAFComp slider adjustments along with deadtime to get these trims within reason. The WBO2 has been calibrated twice and still shows rich. The car idles extremely better then before with these settings and the overly powering fuel smell has minimalized drastically. I still have not gotten around to rebuilding my TB, and I still have not put in the latency values (which I finally received a generic flow sheet from FIC). With that in mind, does the log look decent enough?(log.2017.02.10-03, log.2017.02.11-01)

I also noticed 2 nights ago, when I got hard into boost I get a real bad hesitation. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the boost leak I have at the TB seals, but can you guys just give me your opinions? Also, the deadtimes between the 2 logs have changed, but I could verify that I still have the hesitation.(log.2017.02.09.01)

Thanks again.

 

[miliman13]

Are you on maf or SD ?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I ask ... because of above.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Look at you raw voltage.......it matches your WB AFR
So i think you need to adjust air to macth your AFRest, and this way it will match



Refer to this...
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf


Zero out your maft . re- log.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You have a boost leak.

 

[kmetiuk]

....I still have not put in the latency values (which I finally received a generic flow sheet from FIC). With that in mind, does the log look decent enough?(log.2017.02.10-03, log.2017.02.11-01)

There is no point in moving forward and tuning anything until you have those deadtimes from FIC in your DA tables.

The deadtimes affect your global fuel % which uses Boostest and the MAP sensor to dial in the global %.

The global fuel % literally affects everything so its paramount you get it dailed in.

Aside: since your TB seal seem to be affecting your MAP (which you need to dial in the fuel% based on BoostEst vs MAP) you reeeeeeeeeeeeeally need to fix those.

These are things you need to dial in your car....there is no work around nor band aid solution.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Are you on maf or SD ?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You have a boost leak.

How can you tell?