My First Mods - do it RIGHT

[Benji '97 GST]

ok, I have roughly $3,000 to invest into my gorgeous 2gb GS-T w/ auto tranny.

what would be the best recommendations for first upgrades to fit within this budget?

I had in mind a nice FP Big T-28 a nice FMIC, a 255lph fuel pump, a crushed 1g BOV and a few other goodies
I'm looking ONLY to do performance mods, no visual mods (until a later date anyways, I plan on going with a custom targa top eventually.. with support of course)

I plan on keeping the tranny auto and maybe adding a shift kit of some sort....

anyways, $3,000 is my budget, all stock spec motor and tranny (86 actual miles on a fresh 7 bolt rebuild, 116,xxx miles on the clock)

looking for any and all input here and I'm only looking for NEW parts, NOT used unless in EXCELLENT condition. I've had too many "USED" items go terribly wrong, so NEW with warranty is what I like.

any and all suggestions help and are greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance, peace guys.

 

[motozachl]

Perform maintenance then follow the tech guide

 

[Ghost1984]

^^^ This. Make sure you do all your maintenance first before you start throwing mods on your car. Timing belt components, fluids, belts ect

 

[96 420a-t]

if you want a fp ill help you out, i got a gss317 (255lph wally)i have run for three weeks and am gonna replace, send me a pm. but yeah do all maint first. i think you got a good idea going. just make sure you have all supporting mods.

 

[Guzman08]

get urself
dsmlink
aem wideband
fp exhaust mani
maybe find yourself a custom intake manifold or a used jmf mani on here
relocate the battery to the back to make more room.

 

[Benji '97 GST]

thanks, guys. I'm studying the guides now
and as for maintenance, most of that has already been done, I am looking into a few of them, as well as some of the light mild "mods" that I should check into.

I have ideas running wild, and really considering saving up a few more $$$$ for a while for some of this other stuff.
this car has been a "project" for about 2 years and I've just saved up enough to get the swing into it again, so I think another month of saving, I can get some real nice parts on it
also, I've been looking into the targa top (after performance mods) and I've been wanting to do a mild interior roll cage for a bit of support along with obvious strut tower braces and proper suspension and I've also planned on getting a set of bigger rims or bigger walled tires as IMO the 17's currently on it looks too small... I think a set of 18's would look good ...?? opinions on that?

ooohhh.. and some slotted/cross drilled rotors..


I've got so many ideas flowing for this car it's unbelievable!

keeping the body style stock, maybe with a small front wind splitter and CF OEM hood. the most extreme upgrade I'll ever do to this car is the targa top
=p

thanks guys, appreciate the link and the support on my project

 

[Gamble97]

If I were you and the maintenance is done.
Do this turbo and fp manifold
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/vendor-announcements/394054-forced-performance-tax-sale-too.html
And custom downpipe to fit.

Also an FP intake.

If money is left over
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ven...-tax-return-super-sale-big-big-big-deals.html
Wideband and dsmlink.

Keep the boost low until you decide to go meth or get a bigger fmic later.

Also you won't need a cage with a t28.

 

[907gs-t]

I run that same turbo do yourself a favor & get it ported that's what I did & look at my profile it might help so far I'm pleased with my set up but I still need to get a few more things hopefully this will help you out.

 

[rollover-tsi]

Also you won't need a cage with a t28.

he will need the cage for the targa top

 

[Benji '97 GST]

I planned on getting it ported
XD

 

[ViciousLord]

ooohhh.. and some slotted/cross drilled rotors..

Bad idea. Either Slotted or Drilled, NOT BOTH! The whole braking system is based on friction. These slotted/drilled rotors have less surface area then a blank rotor. More surface area = more friction = better braking.

If it were me, I'd get a good set of blank vented rotors, pads, SS lines, and super blue brake fluid. You will feel the difference.

If you plan on driving the car hard, do all of the above but with slotted rotors. Why not drilled? 1. personal preference 2. I've had drilled rotors crack 3. less surface area over slotted.

 

[Gamble97]

I planned on getting it ported
XD

doesn't matter.

 

[gho5tone]

Get a Shift kit, new end clutches, and a tranny cooler.

Than I would probably aim at a Evo 16g and it's supporting mods.

 

[KyDSM]

On a $3000 budget I would buy a EvoIII 16g, 660cc injectors, 255 Walbro fuel pump, FMIC kit, BOV, shift kit, and a SAFC. All of this wouldn't even take half your budget if you shop wisely. And you would like the results. Don't spend a 5th of your budget on DSMLink. For what your going for/budget, DSMLink would be overkill. A SAFC would be ideal for a 16g's tuning level.

With the rest you could get a nice exhaust manifold for the 16g. And then save the rest for up coming maintenance.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

Bad idea. Either Slotted or Drilled, NOT BOTH! The whole braking system is based on friction. These slotted/drilled rotors have less surface area then a blank rotor. More surface area = more friction = better braking.

If it were me, I'd get a good set of blank vented rotors, pads, SS lines, and super blue brake fluid. You will feel the difference.

If you plan on driving the car hard, do all of the above but with slotted rotors. Why not drilled? 1. personal preference 2. I've had drilled rotors crack 3. less surface area over slotted.

True, BUT with the heat of breaking, gasses build up between the rotor and pads, inhibiting braking. That is where the slots come it, they allow those gasses a passage to escape, keeping maximum contact between the pad and rotor.

If I were you, I would get all he mentioned, but a set of just slotted rotors, rather than blanks.

 

[nitroazz]

I am well under $3k.

I have gotten an e316g, mbc, bov, fmic, intake and intake manifold, rims and rubber, apexi 3" turbo back exhaust, slotted rotors with ceramic pads, gauges, aem wideband, afpr, 2g eprom ecu, pillar pod and stuff I cannot remember at this time.

Removed a pile of crap along the way. Air Conditioning, Evap components and still going on.

What you need to do, is figure out what you want to do with the car and then work a budget for it. If you do not plan, you will start spending money and just have parts sitting around waiting for you to go pay for the next piece that you need before you install.

 

[dexterholland04]

e316g or 20g, 1000cc injectors, DSM Link, Walbro255, AFPR, boost controller, FMIC, turbo-back exhaust, BOV. You could easily do all that for under 3k if you shop around/buy good used parts (like Link, the injectors or exhaust). There are some good deals out there, you just have to find them!

For that amount of money I got a Dejon Tool hard intake pipe, PR FMIC, 1000cc injectors, o2 Housing with TiAL 40mm WG, MHI 20g (which I rebuilt), Walbro 255, Greddy RS BOV (real one), STM -6 Tank to rail kit, STM AFPR kit and DSM Link 2.5. DSM link v3 Lite would be my first mod if I were you. Don't let anyone tell you any different. V3 Lite is cheap, and you can make so much more power using it than with a SAFC. It's not overkill, it will allow him to be able to tune his car even when he keeps adding more and more (and if need be he could always upgrade to the full version of Link).

 

[nitroazz]

As for good deals:

I got my e316g for $350 cdn with less than 2k km on it.
my port and polished intake mani with egr block for $20 cdn
turbo back apexi exhaust with less than 2k km on it for $450 cdn

Just keep an eye open for them deals.

 

[dsm_92_fwd]

hey bro, seen your car on CL a couple times. yes you said no to new parts but i got some lingering around if you ever need any. i got a PR SS o2 housing EVO 3 exhaust mani misc. couplers 1g turbo cams. just hit me up if you ever need anything bro!

 

[ViciousLord]

True, BUT with the heat of breaking, gasses build up between the rotor and pads, inhibiting braking. That is where the slots come it, they allow those gasses a passage to escape, keeping maximum contact between the pad and rotor.

If I were you, I would get all he mentioned, but a set of just slotted rotors, rather than blanks.

I too prefer slotted rotors but the average driver will never reach the point of needing Slots. I'll be getting slotted rotors but i'll have Evo Brembos.

 

[etay89]

if ALL of your maintenance is done (timing belt, oil change, radiator flush, tranny fluid and filter change), then...

ngk wires-$60
ngk plugs-$10
k&n fipk+intake tube=$230
some boost controller=$40
3" catback exhaust= $600
3" downpipe= $150
wideband=$190
boost gauge=$60
gauge pillar or gauge cluster bezel=$40
drilled and/or slotted rotors=can find them on ebay for less than $200 with ceramic pads (i kno a really good shop on ebay where i got if you wanna know)
safc (cheaper alternative to dsmlink) $250
fmic (price from punishment racing..love their kits) $400
1g crushed bov-$50 or greddy bov-$150

walbro fuel pump+rewire kit- $100 for both (190lph if you intend to be under 350hp) or $130 for both (255lph for anything higher than 350hp)
fuel pressure regulator-$200
injectors- $100 used to $300 new
turbo- $500-1000

well, at the worst prices, i was around $4000, but it's possible to still do all that under $3000. it just depends on your goals, where you can afford to get 'non-name brand parts', etc. some parts can be ebay'ed while most can't