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My first impression of punishment racings 8 inch short route street kit

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Imback

Freelancer
1,417
535
Nov 8, 2006
Long island, New York
Well first of all the packaging was decent. I First saw a few bent fins but thats nothing to cry about. Then after a good look over i noticed a few thing's i did not like. First of all it seems like these cores were bought from some were else and then had the ends cut off and they rewelded an extension to it. It also seems like the ends they added on had so many pit holes in the material it looks cheap. The welding and craftsmanship at best is mediocre. I've seen ebay intercoolers with better craftsmanship then this one. The pipes were decent but nothing to brag about. In all for a 550$ set up. I would recomend an ebay set up and save your self some money$$. Below i will attach some photos that will show you my point.

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The line goes around the whole end tank.


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These pit holes are every were on the end tanks.


And even if they did add on extensions they should of at least make it look like one whole piece. My review overall is not a good one for the amount they ask they should be better quality and craftsmanship.. You are better off getting an ebay setup like i said before or if you want a brand name one i have seen the ets ones and they have better quality and for not much more then punishment asks for.



Edgar
 

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I think this kit is a quality kit, I own one. As Tim mentioned, it is for performance, not for the show room floor. IC Cores are probably most of the cost, and for 550 shipped, it is still a great price. I'm willing to bet you forget this thread after you see how efficient and effective it is. $0.02.

-c4
 
Hmmm... I would expect a better finish on a NEW PART... I am sure it functions fine but... I agree with the OP I would not be pleased.... MY SSAC was damn near show quality!:D...
 
I just put this very kit in my car and other then the pain in the ass install the kit looked great and works equally as well. One of the T-clamps broke but that was operator error but other than that I can't complain. By the way the improvement in power at the top of the band is very good and I love the fact that my stock BOV now sounds like it vents into the atmosphere, all due to the 2.5” piping included.
 
What your pointing out are very minor surface imperfections that in no way shape or form affect the performance of the kit. Also the end tanks are not "cut off and they rewelded an extension to it"

This is a budget kit, not a show kit.

Tim

This is what I've been saying for the last 24 hours LOL
 
I agree with ImBack, for that price it should be better quality, thats quite a bit for most ppl, I mean is it that much more time consuming to make it look almost perfect for that price? Im sure it performs like it should and the only reason I would buy it is for the short route piping, but you can get the ssac for much cheaper and ppl have said it performs great.. my 0.02
 
I helped hdoerr with this fmic install and man... was it a pain in the ass. It definelty wasnt meant for cruise control/abs but we found was around it:D. and the instructions that we were looking at kept saying "Make it look like this" WTFso.. that didnt help... all in all after a 11 hour install (including new manifold & o2 housing) it was worth it in the end:thumb:
 
As I always say as long as it get the job done, there is no point of arguing. Think of it its going to get covered up by the bumper anyways.
 
I would buy it is for the short route piping, but you can get the ssac for much cheaper and ppl have said it performs great.. my 0.02

i have the ssac kit and it DEFINETLY was an easier/cleaner install BUT there are many differences with 1g and 2g. *Theres extra cutting involved with 1g's
*the routing of the uicp is a bit different as it takes a more dip that the 2g ssac.
*2g you can just toss away the crash beam as for 1g you need to modify it because its necessary to mount your bumper
 
I helped someone with the install of one of these kits. My points are as follows:

1.) This is a BUDGET kit people, BUDGET. There is a reason why they are half the cost of premium kits. You will have to cut/changed a few things.

2.) Pipe with the BOV flange is a little strange and sticks up a little too far, almost or is hitting the hood depending on where you set your pipes at, but it should still work alright. Be sure to boost leak test and check to make sure the flange is not warped.

3.) Kit lacks a mount for the top. It would be much easier if they charged $5 more and welded one of the included bungs on the top directly in the middle, and included an L bracket to mound to the latch area.

4.) Gather all the clamps you get in the kit, and throw them away. These clamps are prone to breaking. Buy clamps that have a fine thread on the bolt for the clamp.

5.) The silicone in this kit is great!

After buying good clamps, a few pieces of metal, and some nuts and bolts you might be looking at another $60.

This kit does work quiet well though. It took away almost all signs on knock on his car with the help of a water injection kit. For the price for a short route kit, its pretty good. However I can't stress enough that it is indeed a BUDGET KIT.
 
This is the kit I was planning on using for my set-up. I'm on a tight budget and after doing research determined that this was going to be the best performing IC I was gonna find without breaking my bank. Turbo90gsx, what was your impression on the short route piping if you dont mind me asking?
 
2.) Pipe with the BOV flange is a little strange and sticks up a little too far, almost or is hitting the hood depending on where you set your pipes at, but it should still work alright. Be sure to boost leak test and check to make sure the flange is not warped.

Try fitting an adapter flange and an HKS SSQV in there ;)

I got it in there but I had to rotate it because it actually did hit the hood. I think that once I install my Magnus that it should help it out being that it should sit lower.

The only thing I can say as a con on the piping is that it does come real close to the alternator. I love the kit even though it was a PITA to get all the material cut out that you dont need.
 
Ok I understand that this is a budget kit, but my SSAC kit looked better and I payed $150 shipped. Core is also larger, and usually when you spend more money on a kit its because they are not ebay cores, but I'm guessing these kits are ebay cores. I would rather spend the extra $300 if I was going to get a core pitted like that.
 
This is such a common problem with the mentality in America right now. Yes you can get a better looking piece from SS-Autochrome. Yes it is the same core they use on their 240sx/civic/hummer/suburban/mini/pugeot kit (exaggerating of course). Yes their supplier in chinalaysiapan has produced a decent quality piece with a show finish in quantities which I am sure exceed 100,000 units. What you are getting here is a custom piece that is not designed for any other car but ours. The end tanks/core have been extended from the original eBay core so that they better align with our radiator supports to help ease install. Most other vendors charge $300+ just for the piping alone and that doesn't necessarily include a j-pipe or a throttle body elbow. This is currently $459 for the entire kit including shipping. If something isn't right with my kit when I get it from Punishment, then I have a phone number and a friendly english speaking voice on the other end of the line, not somebody with broken english that can hardly understand what I am saying if I can get a phone number at all.

With that in mind you are getting a fully functional kit with customer support from a reputed supporting vendor, I'd say that this is a steal of a deal. Some other vendors charge over $100 dollars for picture perfect end tanks...I suppose Punishment could make that an option as well.
 
I'd love to watch all of your heads explode 7 years ago when it everyone was going ape because short route fmic's finally dropped below the $1,000 mark. Materials haven't gotten cheaper, yet the parts have, take one guess what's suffering since the customer support is still up and they get shipped pretty quickly.

For $500 that's not a bad setup in my eyes, if you want cheap then go cheap, if you want super high quality then open up your checkbook and be prepared to write down some large numbers. This kind of stuff is the reason that there aren't many new parts being designed for our cars outside of ebay. Someone makes a complete short route fmic kit for half of what it cost 7 years ago and people pitch a bi*** about the way it "looks". If it doesn't function, then that's a legitimate concern, but we're talking about an intercooler that's going to be exposed to the elements at the front of the car. If it cools well, doesn't have large pressure drop, then for the money it's a pretty good deal in my eyes.
 
I received my kit in the mail today. If I had not read the original post I wouldn't know what to expect so I wasn't shocked to see the blemishes that you noticed. So in that sense I can understand the OPs perspective. If I was looking at these other ebay intercoolers I would expect this to look similar. I still believe that for all thats included it is a good deal though. The end tanks on this kit are cast in one piece, so that seam is probably a defect in the casting form as Mine has it too. I am thinking of going to it with a wire wheel for more of a brushed appearance as I believe the partial polish highlights the blemishes... although in my bumper opening I am sure it will be hardly noticeable. I may also just paint the end tanks with that metallic silver paint that is supposed to look like aluminum, but I'll wait till the car gets painted before I do that. I don't need a show piece with the clear flaking off the car. I will give a final impression once it is installed.
 
So let me clear up a few bits of confusion here..........i created the kit

The Pipes aren't the best fit in the world, but i designed them around my car and it worked just fine.

Between prototype and production something was changed on the T body elbow to make manufacturing easier.

This caused a weird angle on the UICP which still worked on the car but with people that had ABS it was a pain. The issue should have been addressed in later releases of the piping set, but i would imagine some improvements could still be made.

Same goes for the J pipe, it was extended to make fitment easier on the turbo.

As for the end tanks. They are cast end tanks and are polished after casting to get rid of all the "bumps" (can't think of the right word) this is what causes all the blemishes.

If you want perfectly looking end tanks then your going to have to pay for a kit that has welded end tanks from sheets of aluminum. That means your going to pay a hell of a lot more considering how many more man hours go into it.

In the end the kit works and works damn good i've put some 350 awhp on a mustang dyno and i've seen people run 60-1 on the kit no problem.

It looks 100000 times better then anything SSautochrome makes and its short route.

ETS kits are now in competition with this kit, but if you didn't notice they have dropped there price 100 - 150 bucks......(i wonder why).

FYI, i have passed all business on to punishment racing now i'm no longer involved in selling these kits.






if you have more questions let me know.....i'm getting yelled at by my boss to get back to work soooo let me know. LOL
 
most setups you don't even seen the end tanks...so if it serves the same purpose as a high end kit, whats all the fuss about then. I intend on ordering this over the ETS kit in February because it serves its purpose and it is still saving me money
 
I just installed this kit. Without being biast on any front, I'll give my honest opinion. First of all, I needed a sawzaw(sp?) to modify the crash beam,any manual way is a waste of time. I didnt think that the Upper pipe location was very good,as my greddy blow off valve hits the hood (I have a dejon 1g-greddy adapter). I suppose if i retap the 1g flange, it may clear. I had a difficult time lining up the 2 upper pieces,very difficult,and a boost leak test might blow them apart- I'll see. I did break 1 tbolt clamp, overtightening it (which I never have done). The P/S cooler needs to be removed(as i suppose all short route kits require), so I had to loop the PS lines- I should be ok as long as it's only drag raced. I absolutely hate the hot side. It will make servicing the o2 housing and alternator miserable-either that or drop the bumper and remove the core to remove the pipe. The only plus is that if you can keep everything tight, its a very meaty core, it can probably support a lot of power, and it looks pretty good in the bumper.
I do understand that it is a "budget kit",but I was far from impressed. I had a ETS on my last 1g and had minimal problems with it and I am going to have to say spend the few hundred dollars more if you can on that one.
 
Aside from the BOV sitting just a bit too high and accidentally breaking my vacuum nipple on my Type S (Oh no, my ricer sounds!) it wasn't anything that wasn't advertised. In the instructions it clearly says it doesn't just slip in like a glove and I expected that. It was a pain in the ass at times, but mostly just trying to cut out enough in the frame to fit the pipes. It got them all scratched up, but I don't really care. It's not meant for ABS either, as stated, and the edge of mine has even dug a good way into the BOV piping. When I noticed I stuck a piece of cut hose in between the two as a buffer until I can get the time to take it out.

Overall, definitely satisfied with the product. Looks great, performs great, and the TB side of the piping is ALWAYS MUCH COOLER than the turbo side of the piping. Short route is ftw too. Gotten a lot of compliments on that. Very glad I went with this intercooler.

Also, take one look at a SSAC LONG ROUTE piping and you'll see what makes this cheap Short Route so nice.
 
I just installed this kit. Without being biast on any front, I'll give my honest opinion. First of all, I needed a sawzaw(sp?) to modify the crash beam,any manual way is a waste of time. I didnt think that the Upper pipe location was very good,as my greddy blow off valve hits the hood (I have a dejon 1g-greddy adapter). I suppose if i retap the 1g flange, it may clear. I had a difficult time lining up the 2 upper pieces,very difficult,and a boost leak test might blow them apart- I'll see. I did break 1 tbolt clamp, overtightening it (which I never have done). The P/S cooler needs to be removed(as i suppose all short route kits require), so I had to loop the PS lines- I should be ok as long as it's only drag raced. I absolutely hate the hot side. It will make servicing the o2 housing and alternator miserable-either that or drop the bumper and remove the core to remove the pipe. The only plus is that if you can keep everything tight, its a very meaty core, it can probably support a lot of power, and it looks pretty good in the bumper.
I do understand that it is a "budget kit",but I was far from impressed. I had a ETS on my last 1g and had minimal problems with it and I am going to have to say spend the few hundred dollars more if you can on that one.

I think the added height of the greddy bov + the thickness of the adapter may have contributed to it hitting the hood, we haven't had any issue's with that on the most recent versions of the kit.

There is another customers write up on his installation of the same kit in this thread from today.

Punishment racing fmic kit for 1g - DSMtalk Forums
 
Aside from the BOV sitting just a bit too high and accidentally breaking my vacuum nipple on my Type S (Oh no, my ricer sounds!) it wasn't anything that wasn't advertised. In the instructions it clearly says it doesn't just slip in like a glove and I expected that. It was a pain in the ass at times, but mostly just trying to cut out enough in the frame to fit the pipes. It got them all scratched up, but I don't really care. It's not meant for ABS either, as stated, and the edge of mine has even dug a good way into the BOV piping. When I noticed I stuck a piece of cut hose in between the two as a buffer until I can get the time to take it out.

Overall, definitely satisfied with the product. Looks great, performs great, and the TB side of the piping is ALWAYS MUCH COOLER than the turbo side of the piping. Short route is ftw too. Gotten a lot of compliments on that. Very glad I went with this intercooler.

Also, take one look at a SSAC LONG ROUTE piping and you'll see what makes this cheap Short Route so nice.


Glad your liking the kit :thumb:
 
I am thoroughly enjoying my car with this kit installed. A few notes on my install that may help others later.

On a 90 with cruise the upper pipes will not fit. I just gave up the cruise and got the non-cruise cable which did help with throttle response.

I haven't achieved a decent boost leak test yet, but am working on it. The difference in size from the pipes to the intercooler end tanks made it tricky to get it to seal right. My t-bolts seem very strong though and I just watch the t-end to make sure I am not over tightening it.

My BOV flange does hit the hood and it is causing the hood to raise on the passenger side, however no dent so far (it has rubbed through the paint and galled the metal). I am thinking if I cut away more of the radiator support under the pipe and lower the intercooler a tad I may be able to remedy this. I did remove the hood latch center bracket thing at first but it allowed the latch to twist when shutting the hood making it difficult to close.

It would be a lot easier to delete the a/c but I can't give up my amenities. :coy:
I had to bend the ac condenser connector sideways to get the intercooler to fit flush which took a lot of pulling... worked up quite the sweat to make it work and it is still not as far over as I need it.

The alternator is basically resting on the bottom pipe. It is still working fine though.
 
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