My dyno Results

[doug]

Actually, I did remove just the side ones a few days ago. It ran rough for a few seconds, kinda like when you reset the ECU, but then it was fine. And it's been running a little better ever since. So the bottom one would be the better one to remove?

Oh, and my fuel mods are only a -6AN fuel line between the filter and the rail (eliminates the banjo bolt), and a rewire on the stock pump (with a relay).

 

[JET]

If it is running fine with the side ones removed then I would go with that. That should be a little more area than just the bottom one. That front plastic piece that holds the honeycombs in can also be trimmed down quite a bit to increase flow. I would suggest you get an AFC or better yet a dsmlink for your next mod. That way you can chaged the AFR's without hacking stuff.

 

[doug]

Agreed-- I already have the EPROM ECU for DSMlink; just need to send it in and get the code put on it. Got an extra $595 laying around?

 

[MNGSX]

The best way to adjust the AFR is with that link ECU or a stand alone.

You can to some degree change it with a pump.. Not much.

The biggest thing is injector size on duty cycle.

The pump really just maintains fuel pressure and flow.

You can use a adjustable FPR to lower base fuel pressure. It may help but it's limited. You may get it right at a given rpm/load but be off somewhere else. As the only controlable adjustment is base pressure. It does increase/decrease pressure with vac/boost. But the pressure/vaccum is not linear with air flow.

If you remove the relay on the pump it will lean out a bit.

Try it!

I'd hook that relay back in after you get that eprom ECU installed.

 

[doug]

First of all-- Agim, sorry for hijacking your thread.

Second, I thought the fuel pump relay was just for turning the pump on and off with the ignition. I'm totally clueless with electrical stuff....

 

[FourG63 97GST]

Originally posted by doug
First of all-- Agim, sorry for hijacking your thread.

No prob this info Is helpin me out too

 

[MNGSX]

The factory ECU turns on a relay which swtiches power to the pump.

However the wire going back there is a small gauge and the end result of the factory system is a voltage below that at the battery.

So as a mod people run a wire (WITH AN INLINE FUSE) from the positive battery terminal to another relay located at the pump.

The ECU switches its relay which turns on the factor pump wire. This wire then powers the add on relay which switches full battery power thru a larger gauge wire to the pump.

I also recomend upgrading the pumps ground wire to match the hotwire wire gauge.

 

[GSTeclipse]

This is my dyno when I had the T-25 with 15psi and stock down pipe & cat and stock side mount ! But if you can't make it out it's
211.5WHP
228.3lbstq

 

[doug]

Pump gas?

 

[WhipmastaFlex]

well since this is the official south florida DSM dyno day results thread, here's mine

i wasn't expecting more than what i got being that i'm stock everything except an autozone cone filter and exhaust tip, and a fresh rebuild. all my internals won't be any useful until i swap the turbo. my air/fuel ends up right around 11.5 (on my all-gear run it pretty much stays between 11.5and 12), and my hp curve is pretty flat

 

[doug]

I have A/F curve envy.

 

[GSTeclipse]

Yes mine was on pump gas (93) if you are asking me!

 

[doug]

Wow! Nice run.

 

[FourG63 97GST]

added a Walbro 190 to the current setup

put down 222hp/234tq @17psi

dyno sheet coming soon.........

 

[DSMJim]

As for these people saying you will raise your HP if you add injectors or pump, they are on crack.

This is technically incorrect. Larger injectors and an AFC trick the MAF into thinking there is less airflow then there is. When your computer sees less air flow it increases timing. If your car with the stock setup is hitting 24deg of timing totally stock when you throw on a larger turbo and add more air flow your stock computer will back timing off on the top end to "save the motor" as a built in feature. So you may be getting 16-17 deg of timing at the top end which produces a lot less power then 24 deg does.

When you put in the larger injectors and afc you adjust your afc to say -15% for 550cc injectors which forces your computer to see less air flow thus raising your timing.

More timing = More hp, or regaining lost HP. If you then with your larger injectors and afc turn up the boost you can again make even more power cause you have more fuel flow (larger pump too!) and you can somewhat control your timing by way of tuning and watching it on a pocket logger.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Sorry for hte hijack but what can I expect on the wheels with a setup like this?Properly tuned that is
I dont have a dyno close to me so I am guesstimating rightnow....thats why the question popped up?
I am also thinking of putting a 60mm TB on the car since I ahev one over..will it help any at all?
K&N filter
Dejon 2 3/4 intake pipe
Greddy Type S BOV
Magnecore wires 8,5mm
Dejon Dual settings MBC (set right now at 16PSI)
ProStreetIndustries FMIC kit with 2,5" mandrel bent IC pipings all the way from turbo to elbow.
660's injectors
Big 16G ported turbo with 34mm wastegate flapper
3" custom SS exhaustsystem all the way- Downpipe- race cat- highflowmuffler-
ported 2G O2 housing
190LPH fuel pump
HKS Type 1 TT
Autometer boost gauge
EGT gauge
Apexi S-AFC II

 

[FourG63 97GST]

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[doug]

What was the difference between the two pulls yesterday? Looks like torque stayed about the same, but HP increased from 216 to 222. Also looks like you're still running a little rich.

 

[FourG63 97GST]

The only difference was the fuel pump(walbro 190) and 17PSI instead of 15
otherwise its the same setup

 

[doug]

No, I mean the difference between the two pulls you had yesterday, the one in blue on the chart and the one in red (sorry, I went back and edited my question to make it more clear but you had already replied).

 

[FourG63 97GST]

Oh, one was in 3rd gear the other was is in 4th

I forgot which is which, think the blue is 3rd gear

 

[vertGST]

blue is 3rd and red is 4th.

Brendon